Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[Gary Lewis]

I think you may have to unfold it and take another pic.  I say that because I think the info we are looking for is in the upper left, right about where the fold is.  I can see the "55" which must be 3.55 gear ratio, and "8 8" which must be the 8.8" pinion size.  But the upper left isn't legible to me.

Having said that, it is pretty obvious that you have an 8.8" and I'd bet the bearings and seals are all the same.  Still, it would be good to nail down what you have to make sure.

[ReneH]

Ok, so it may be better to remove it before. The cover seems to be responsible for the fold and I can't bend it good in this position.

[ReneH]

I have looked...nothing more to see...Herr is what I've got. There seems to be no number behind the bent:

[Gary Lewis]

Actually, you got the needed info, which is "810P".  That shows up multiple times in parts list #236, and I've highlighted them in the attached file.  And so we now know that your rear axle is indeed the right one for your Bronco and you can order parts for it with they expectation they will fit.

However, you'll note in that file that right at the top it says to refer to 1177 for seals and 1225 for wheel bearings, meaning that those part numbers are not in that file.  So the screenshots below show the right Ford part numbers for the seals and wheel bearings for your axle.  But you may find that no one uses the Ford part numbers so you may just go with what someone like Rock Auto says will fit.






Parts_List_No_236.pdf

[ReneH]

Thanks Gary,

you are incredible! You are also right, regarding the part numbers. No match at rockauto.com...

Here is my basket:


Have I missed something? Are there any washers or distance plates needed?

I have added the "normal" and also the "repair" bearings, without knowing the difference...

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know the difference between the standard bearings and that repair one.  But I found this on the Summit site that says "The product description needs to be updated to note that this is a "repair" bearing to be used with a used axle, not a true axle bearing that's used with a new axle. The "repair" bearing moves the bearings themselves farther out on the shaft and closer towards the weaker (thinner) portion of the axle housing. If one is replacing the axle and towing with the vehicle, this is not the part you want to use."

So unless you have a problem with the axle I'd think the standard bearing would be the way to go.  However, if you get it apart and then discover you have a problem you should have bought the repair one.  So I don't know.

But if you go with the regular, non-repair bearings then you need to also order the seals.  Other than that I think you have it.

[ReneH]

Ok, I've understood. I'll buy both cause of not knowing what I've to expect when I've pulled the bearings.

So here's my new basket. I've added some parts in two versions, cause of not knowing what's the right one. E.g. the axle shaft seals have a differt OD...

I also have added the seal for the differential cover, cause if I have to open it, I'll need it. I think the flange gasket is also needed two times. As you see, something leaks on the rear passenger side:


To save shipping cost, I also added the U-joints. Small cost and easy to replace.





Thanks for your help in advance!

[Gary Lewis]

Well, that certainly seems to have everything, and then some!

Getting the rear cover gasket is a very good idea and I should have mentioned that.  You'll need to pull the cover to get the retainers out for the axles.  But do you have the right lubricant to refill the axle?

And it is ok to get the gasket between the axle tube and the brake backing plate, but you only have one of them in the cart and may need two.

But one axle seals you have a whole bunch!  Several different kinds.  And in at least one case only one of that kind.  Don't you want to order two?

Then there's the pinion seal.  Are you pulling that apart?  I wouldn't if there's not a problem.

Anyway, that's a lot of parts but with some checking of quantities you may be ready to order.

[ReneH]

Hu Gary,

You have already mentioned that I need to get inside the differential to get the axles out. I only have forgotten to add the gasket into the basket.

The amounts are wrong at some parts, I know and I will correct it.

About the pinion seal: No, I'll check if it is the same origin of shipping...then I'll let it inside the basket and if I don't have to change it, I'll place it in my stock.

But there are two different axle shaft seals...do I need both?

[Gary Lewis]

Rene - I took a different approach of cross referencing the Ford part number (E3TZ 1177-A) to other seals and found this Timken site that says it crosses to a Timken 8835S.

Lo and behold you have two of those in your cart!

[ReneH]

Ok...so I don't need both of the axle shaft seals?

[Gary Lewis]

You only need the 8835S seals for the axles themselves.

[ReneH]

Ok, so you've saved me much of money.
That's my final basket for changing the rear breaks, bearings and all needed seals for this operation:



I hope this parts will fit, so I can order.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, looks good although I hope you won't need the pinion seal.  And obviously you'll only need either the wheel bearing/seal combo or the axle repair kit.

Good luck!  

[ReneH]

OK, it has taken a while...but here is the current status of my center console with integrated subwoofer:














I will remove it and cover everything with leatherette outside and molton inside.
At the lids I will also add some foam under the leatherette to get a soft touch.
The sound of the subwoofer and the center speaker, that's also connected to the
amplifier is very good. The case of the subwoofer is build as closed case with special
chassis, optimized for closed cases. I've used two 6" woofers that produce much pressure
and also get a very deep resonance frequency. At least it is a very good set-up.

If annyone is interested, I have the construction build in Solidworks and I can also provide
a part-list of the used components.

[Gary Lewis]

Rene - That looks impressive!  And substantial!  I'll bet it has good bass.

As for the plans, would you want to have a page in the Documentation section?  You could do a writeup in Word with lots of pics as well as drawings from Solidworks and I could make the page to put them on.

[BigBrother-84]

ReneH wrote

OK, it has taken a while... but here is the current status of my center console with integrated subwoofer.
[…]
I've used two 6" woofers that produce much pressure and also get a very deep resonance frequency. At least it is a very good set-up.

Wow!  Nice setup René!


And these powerful Sub pointing to the front and the firewall may help to propel the truck ahead!

[ReneH]

Thanks Jeff!

Yes, you are right...that's a good point. If I cut the firewall, I could use it also to cool down the gearbox or the rearside of the engine...

But first I have to change the rear wheel bearings and the breaks next weekend.
After that I will continue with the center console. Starting with the hinges of the two lids, followed by covering the surfaces.

[ReneH]

So, yesterday I've changed the rear breaks and also the wheel bearings. Now as my axleshafts both have grooves, I have to use the repair bearings to get it done.



The differential looks good inside, so far. Nothing noticeable in my opinion. I also have made better photos of the numbers on the plate:


The deep rolling sound is also gone, when driving. So it seems that the bearings were the source of it.

I have re-filled the differential oil using two liter new oil and the rest filtered of the oil I've catched when draining the differential. I have had done a oil change 2,000 miles before, so I think this mix will be OK.

[ReneH]

I've also reworked the differential cover: