Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[ReneH]

Yes, I would say it's a success. I have to test and drive some miles before knowing it fore sure...but the adjustment of the TPS was necessary in my opinion. Cause whithout today there was the smell of gasoline in the air when driving.

As I have learned in the past, the TPS voltage is very sensitive for the air/fuel mix and should be close to 0.9 to 1.0 volts in minimum and 4.5 in maximum.

The EEC doesn't regulate the rpm up in my case when going from P to N or D...more to the opposite...

[Gary Lewis]

I'm surprised that the EEC-IV doesn't keep the idle RPM constant.  It does in the EEC-V system.  But if you are happy then I'm happy.  

[ReneH]

But it seems a fact. All time I'll change from P to D or R, the rpm goes down. In P it has the highest value, in N slightly less...or maybe even the same...

So next test drive we'll see, if I'm happy...

What do you think about my TPS values?
Are they in a good range?

[ReneH]

I currently thinking about to change the differential fluid in both axles...is 75W-140 usable for both?

I will have a better feeling about the long distance (only long in German dimensions ) to drive for the holidays..

[Gary Lewis]

The owner's manual says "ESW-M2C105-A" for both axles, and "Add 4 ounces of EST-M2C118-A (friction modifier Part No. C8AZ-19B546-A) for complete refill of Traction-Lok or Limited Slip rear axles".

Basically ESW-M2C105-A is an 80W-90 that meets GL-5 specs.  However, most manufacturers now sell 75W-90 or 75W-140, both of which meet GL-5 specs.  I use synthetic 75W-90.  75W-140 would work but it would be stiffer in cold weather.

[Gary Lewis]

ReneH wrote

What do you think about my TPS values?
Are they in a good range?

Missed this.  But from what little I know about TPS values those look good.  However, Bill or others would be better to answer.

[ReneH]

Ok, thanks. So I'll also use 75W-90.

Another question...nothing such deep technical. As some of you know, my truck has the 1994 door panels. As driving both side squiking...it's horrible! As the most of the fastener holders in the panel are broken, I will use screws. As I'm planning to cover all plastic parts with foam and leatherette, some torx screws will look fine.

But I have a problem that the panels itself don't seem to fit 100 percent or be already bent by the sun.

It seems that the inside weather strip of the glass is only clipped inside the panel and not inside the metal of the door...I have the weather strip for the 80th and 90th door panels. Which should I use?

[ReneH]

I have 3 liters of 75W-90 in my stock. Will this be enough for both differentials?

Has someone a link for me about the draining and refilling?

[grumpin]

Rene, those same door panels on my 92 Bronco are the noisiest panels I have ever seen.

The passenger side was so bad on a trip I stuffed rolled up napkins in it to quiet it down.

When I got home I pulled that panel and could see where it was rubbing, white dust on the door. I trimmed that panel a lot. I used shears in a couple of spots it was so bad, then a Dremel tool.

It took putting the panel on and off a lot to check the trimming I did.

[Gary Lewis]

ReneH wrote

I have 3 liters of 75W-90 in my stock. Will this be enough for both differentials?

Has someone a link for me about the draining and refilling?

No, 3 liters won't be enough, as you can see from the page below from your 1986 owner's manual.  By the way, you can see that by going to the Manuals & Literature page in the menu.

As for draining and refilling, on the front diff I don't think there is a drain plug and if that is the case you'll need a suction gun.  And when I do it I graft a piece of small hose to the larger hose of the gun in order to reach to the bottom of the case.

On the rear axle, if you have an 8.8" it'll have a rear cover you can remove to drain it, but you'll also need a gasket.  However the 9" doesn't have a rear cover and you'll need the suction gun again.

[ReneH]

Ok...that sounds like what I feared... I also have got some EVA insulation material to get it quiet. I also have driven without the panels and the doors also makes noise. So it seems that the doors need to be strengthened not to rattle.

[85lebaront2]

Rene', new weatherstrip and possibly new strikers (pins) for the latches will probably cure the door rattles.

[Gary Lewis]

Rene - You might want to read about the PEX Door Striker Mod.

[ReneH]

Ok, thanks!

I already have bought new anti-rattle strikers, last year:


Haven't installed them up today...

But back to my question about the inner weather strip...is it only mounted to the door panel as shown on my photo above?

[Gary Lewis]

Those strikers should help.  And they are the later design that comes apart so you can replace the tubing if you need to do so.

And the inner weather strip, it only mounts to the door panel.  Originally Ford, or their supplier, stapled them on, but I tried that and broke the panel.  Instead I now pop rivet them on with washers as backing plates to spread the load.

[81-F150-Explorer]

I notice you are using 1992-1996 door panels.

The vent window and door window are of different dimensions 1987-1996 to a 1980-1986. Thus the window anti-rattle seals on the door panels and doors will be different lengths between, 1980-1986 / 1987-1996, with the 1980-1986 ones being longer.

So it depends on which windows you have, to which seals you need.

hope this helps.

[ReneH]

Ok, so I'll clip them in and rivet them or maybe use screws. If I use rivets, I'll prefer spread rivets for plastic. They'll need no washers...

[ReneH]

Interesting, thanks. So the former owner also has changed the window itself to fit the newer vent window? What an afford...

But as he was someone who compensates a bent connection rod by grinding the the backside of the piston to prevent it from colliding with the counterweight of the crankshaft, everything seems possible at my truck...

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, you can also use screws.  But spreading the load is a good idea however you fasten them.

As for everything being possible on your truck, you aren't alone as  had his way with my truck.  He cut a hole in the engine crossmember to weaken it, wired around the inertia switch so the fuel pump wasn't protected, bypassed the resistor to put full battery power to the fuel pump, etc, etc, etc.  It took me years to unravel and put straight what he'd done.

So I feel for you.  Been there and it isn't fun.  But you can eventually sort it all out.  Hang in there.  

[85lebaront2]

True, I got lucky on Darth, just no accelerator pump on the Holley carb due to improper assembly of the front float bowl. Oil filter adapter loose (my 1987 Horizon definitely wouldn't rust after being towed behind Darth), both rear fenders broken (part of one was in the bed). Heater return swivel fitting brazed together, timing set at 10° ATDC by the 3 day a week part time "mechanic" at the dealer in Gordonsville VA. Rear tank fuel pump DOA, front tank - "don't fill it more than 3/4, it will leak" rusted through under the not needed heat shield (installed as a blanket recall on 460 powered trucks due to ambulance fires from exhaust heat boiling gas in the front tank), Darth's went in the trash when the "new" 1990 tank was installed as that extra 35" solves the heat issue.