Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[Gary Lewis]

Wonderful!!!!!!  

[ReneH]

Yesterday I've changed the drums.


You see, there is a big difference...I haven't found this difference in the manuals or the part lists...but I may only haven't searched for the right numbers...there also must be two different hubs available for the 8.8 axle...or may the wrong drums are fit to the 9" axle? Despite the hub hole, everything seems nearly identical...

[Gary Lewis]

Looking at the Rear Hub & Drum Parts Lists the Bronco falls into three parts lists and uses two different drums:

1980/83: PL #3 and E4TZ-B

1984/86: PL #18 and E4TZ-B

1987/thru at least 89: PL #29 and E7TZ-B

That implies that since the drum changed in 1987 that the hole size might have changed.  However, if you look at the rear axle parts lists you'll find that there were 4 different axles used in the 8.8" assemblies, and there's no information on the size of that center raised area in the catalog for any of those axles.

So I can't answer your question.  But if there was a change it was after the Bullnose era as all Bullnose Broncos use the same rear drums.

Anyway, I'm sure glad you got the right drums!  How does it drive with them?

[ReneH]

Hmm...so rockauto.com may have listed the drums for the wrong years...

It's a good question...in my opinion the deep rolling sound got louder again after changing back to the correct drums...I'll do a measurement of the roundness while mounted next weekend. In the end maybe my centering of the wrong drums was better than the original drums...

I still have some further questions, that I'll post these days...

[ReneH]

Ok, I'll try to list some things that still to be solved or optimized in my opinion:

1. Engine
It's still a bit shaking at about 1,000 rpm.
At more or also less, it's running more smooth. I think about the experiment with the timing. Currently I'm at about 12 deg BTDC. I could try 10 or even 14 degrees.
Another suspect is still the throttle body...

2. Door adjustment
I've tried to adjust the doors, after changing the seals. The adjustment gets better, but the doors won't fit very good. As far as I know, I'm already in the limits of the ability of the adjustment...

3. Spare parts
I'm still searching for an intact horn pad with cruise control.

The heater control panel. As I have removed my A/C, I'm interested in a panel without A/C function, if this is possible to add.

In longer term (or for an unbeatable price), I'm also searching for a gearbox with overdrive, including the needed components to fit it into my truck.

[Gary Lewis]

I doubt changing the timing will fix the shaking, but it is worth a try as it won’t cost anything.

I think what I’d do is monitor the AFR at the RPM where the shaking occurs. See if something is causing the AFR to go wonky at that point. If not then I doubt it is the throttle body.

On the transmission, are you looking for a manual or automatic?

[ReneH]

Hmm...ok...so maybe I'll wait with this...

What's the best way to monitor the AFR?

I'm looking for an automatic transmission.
As using the 351W ECU, I think it's able to control the E4OD?
I can get one here in Germany for about 850 Euro including the torque converter, but without information if it works...

[Gary Lewis]

I'm running an Innovate wideband, and it works well.  But you might be interested in this thread on AFR Meter Recommends.

As for a transmission, an E4OD takes a computer to control it, and the EEC-IV ECU from a Bullnose truck won't do it.  The E4OD wasn't introduced until 1989 so none of the previous computers had the ability to control it.

However you can get stand-alone controllers, like a Baughman, that don't rely on the EFI system.  That would be the best bet for you I'd think.

[ReneH]

Ok, I'll read the recommendation. This is what I'm searching for.

About the E4OD...I have a 1989 351W ECU...on the pin-out list, there are pins for the E4OD...or do I understand this list wrong?

Another thing: I have noticed, that I can pull and push the rear axles some millimeters out and in...is this common? I was a bit astonished, that the whole wheel, breaks and the axle itself is fixed only with this small C-clip inside the differential...

[Gary Lewis]

I mis-typed - the E4OD came out in '89, and I've updated the previous post.

So if you have an '89 ECU it might have the ability to control an E4OD.  However, according to our documentation the E4OD wasn't used in the Bronco that year.  So what did your ECU come out of?  Do you have the numbers off of it so I can look it up?

[ReneH]

No problem. I thought Bill has recommended me to use a 1989 EEC-IV for my 347 stroker. I have bought the Cardone 784780 (E9TF-ABB / E9TF-ABC). If ,ou need the original number...I've to take a photo.

What do you think about my axle?

[Gary Lewis]

E9TF-ABB is an ID #, not a part number.  Go see our new page at Documentation/How To Decode Ford Part Numbers to explain why I say that.  So in the morning I'll see if I can find that in the cross-ref as the Master Parts Catalog lists part numbers, not ID #'s.  So I need a PN to see what the ECU came from and supports.

On the axle, I know there's end play in them, but I don't know how much is within specs.  However you may be able to find the specs in the Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials.

[ReneH]

I found out, that the maximum endplay should not more than 0.03". I have a lot more...so maybe some of these shims inside the differential are worn out...

About the ECU, I'll take a picture from the number this weekend.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know what causes the excess play in the axle, though maybe someone else does or the factory shop manual may say.

But we probably need the numbers off your ECU.  I say that because Ford's 1991 Master Cross Reference doesn't list either an E9TF 12A650-ABB or ABC.  But it does list an E9TZ 12A650-ABB and ABC, and they cross to E9TF 12A650-ABBMR and ABCMR.

But the only E4OD-capable units I'm seeing are:

Calibration PL 687 for an '89 F250/350 with a 5.8L: E9TZ 12A650-PB Processor and calibrator assy. (E.E.C. IV) #E9TF 12A650-P1B

Calibration PL 690 for an '89 F250/350 with a 7.5L: E9TZ 12A650-RA Processor and calibrator assy. (E.E.C. IV) #E9TF 12A650-R1A

Calibration PL 691 for an '89 F(Superduty) with a 7.5L: E9TZ 12A650-SA Processor and calibrator assy. (E.E.C. IV) #E9TF 12A650-S1A  r/bF0TZ 12A650-AZA

[Gary Lewis]

Update: There is the following entry in the section of the MPC called "12A650 PROCESSOR AND CALIBRATOR ASSY, (ENGINE ELECTRONIC CONTROL-E.E.C. IV-REMANUFACTURED":

E9TF 12A650-AB1B E9TZ 12A650-ABB r/b E9TZ 12A650-ABC

But there's no application or parts list that uses that unit.

Bill - Do you know anything about it?

[85lebaront2]

I Googled the number and got this:
https://modulemechanics.com/product/e9tz-12a650-abc-eec-iv-ecu-plug-play-ford-bronco-ecm-pcm-bcm-engine-control-computer-oem/

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - That says it is for an 89 Bronco with an auto, but the MPC says the Bronco didn’t get the E4OD in 89. So it must be for a C6?

[85lebaront2]

Most likely as the only 351/AOD combinations I have seen were in cars.

[ReneH]

Hi Bill, maybe my intention is getting in a wrong way...

As using the truck as daily driver and also for longer distances, I think a gearbox with overdrive is very useful and will get better mpg for me. Sure, I'll go off-road some times, but my definition for off-road is maybe the same as for some people the definition of side-street...
I also have no heavy trailer to pull...

So my truck was originally delivered with the AOD. A former owner has changed it to the C6 for reasons I don't know.

I have read that the AOD is not very reliable.
And as my two experts here in the forum uses the E4OD, I thought this will be the better choice.

I have found this on rockauto.com:
1994 EEC-IV

But as having done the whole engine wiring new and modular, I have also the option to switch to an EEC-V and add a MAF, if this will get more benefits (like e.g. better MPG).

So the only things I want to change in the future, regarding the engine, is a new plenum with single throttle body and new aluminum heads.

I'll be thankful for your thoughts about this.

[ReneH]

I think it's best to buy a differential rebuild kit...so maybe someone can recommend me a master kit for my Ford 8.8...

rockauto.com 

Thanks!