Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[ReneH]

I also have changed the door speakers... Fixed with M4 rivet nuts and foam to prevent rattling. I have also put heavy bitumen mats inside the doors. I'll post photos tomorrow.

[Gary Lewis]

Nice!  With the doors quietened and those speakers you should notice a big difference in sound.  

[ReneH]

No, it doesn't. It seems that for the ones before it was also used a type of silicone or glue...

Yes, they really fits nice.

The handles also fits perfect. They are doing no more sound anymore.

[ReneH]

Yes. Wait until I'll present you my dual subwoofers, integrated in the center console...driven by 250 watts rms...

[Gary Lewis]

[ReneH]

So, as I'm back from holidays and my bronco has run about 1,700 miles without any problems, I'll going on to make it like home...

Technically everything seems to be fine so far. Ok. I still have to do some things, but nothing such critical as in the past.

1. My TPS has to be adjusted. Idle when warm is ok, but when cold the engine starves sometimes when setting the gear and pushing the pedal.

2. One or both exhaust mainfolds are leaking thus I've using multi-layer aluminum gaskets.

3. I have to check my plugs to see how they look after this amount of miles and see how the engine runs.

4. I still have this deep rolling noise when driving over 60 miles. I've already checked the wheels on a balancing machine. Nothing uncommon...but watching the tire on it, it seems that the tire has a dent on tread.

5. I think my C6 loose some oil...sometimes I have a small Spot under the car in height of the gearbox...don't know from where it comes...but the spot is not as big at all...

So next part I'll work in will be the center console with integrated subwoofer. I'll post some images here to keep you up to date.

If someone has any comments to the first listen technical things, I'll be thankful.

[Gary Lewis]

Glad your holiday went so well!  

On the oil spot, it isn't unusual for a rear main seal leak on the engine to drip off of the transmission at the torque converter.  So it might not be the transmission itself that is leaking.  And it isn't too unusual for a rear main seal to drip a bit now and then.  Big Blue's does from time to time.

On the noise, I can't imagine what it is, but doubt that a dent in the tire would do that.  Are you sure your front hubs are unlocked?

And I'm looking forward to seeing what you are going to do on the subwoofer.  

[grumpin]

On your noise, have you checked the front wheel bearings?

My 92 Bronco was making a noise at speed and I cleaned, inspected and repacked the front bearings twice.

Finally replaced the bearings and races and used some good old NLGI #2 grease and it solved the issue.

[ReneH]

Hi Gary,

thanks!

I think the spot is more to the back, under the bridge of the gearbox. The seals of the engine are all new. On the gearbox I only have changed the pan gasket when changing the pan itself. The distribution gearbox seems to be dry.

I'll try to record the sound by laying the mobile on the floor and apply a high-cut filter. This may work.

Yes, the hubs are unlocked. I also have to check if the other noise is still there, when they are locked...I have had made an oil-change before the holidays.

I'll post photos ar the weekend. The sound is really good. Needs to be fine-tuned, but already a very good sound.

[ReneH]

Hi grumpin,

No, I haven't. But I should do this. The sound won't come up when driving curves. Only at higher speeds on straights. I have to hear, if it also comes up when rolling or only when applying torque. But I think it's also there when rolling.

[ReneH]

So, today I was at the German TÜV...

What should I say...they've lifted the bronco so I can wiggle all wheels...both rear wheel bearings are over their time...left one I can wiggle in both axis, right one in one...haven't had somebody written it's a pain to change them?

Also the rear breaks are very weak...so this may have caused the over-stress for the front breaks down the alps...

[Gary Lewis]

That's probably the source of the noise.

As for being a pain, they aren't terrible.  The instructions are on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then the Rear Axles & Differential tabs.

I've not done an 8.8" but the instructions appear to show that you remove the rear cover, which can't be done on a 9", remove a keeper, and then slide the axles out.  Replace the bearings and seals and slide them back in.

But on a 9" you'll pull the axles and then have to break a retainer off.  The instructions probably say to drill a hole in them, but I find that using a cutoff wheel is faster.  As you get part way through the retainer will pop and you can then remove it, although it may take a press to do so.  And it will take a press to put the new bearings and retainer on.  

As for the brakes, if they aren't working properly that could easily have been why the front ones were overloaded.  And when you are replacing rear axle bearings is the perfect time to replace all of the brake components.

[ReneH]

Hi Gary,

as far as I remember, you already have send me the right parts for the rear bearings. I have to check this post from you.

About the breaks there is a kit including all for the rear breaks
Link
I think it will fit for my needs...

[Gary Lewis]

Rene - I don't remember sending you rear axle parts.  Maybe that was someone else?  

But that kit looks like it would do the trick.  Everything you need in one.  I didn't check to see that it fits your Bronco, but assume you did.

Having said that, there's a chance your brake drums are ok.  But you won't know that until you pull everything apart and then it would take time for them to be shipped to you, so getting the whole kit is probably the best approach.  

[ReneH]

Hmm. I thought you have listed it as we've talked about the front breaks and the bearings. I'll take a look into the past...

Yes, the same what I think. Better to have everything in stock, including the hoses and so on. If emptying the break system it's better to change all parts at once of an axle.

[ReneH]

Hi Gary, you are right! You only have sent the parts for the front and this Information:

I think this is what you need for the front.  Will work on the rear in another post.

Do you have an overview for me what I should change (bearings, seals, other things that are useful to change...)

I have taken a look to the parts list, but I'm not 100 percent sure about what's needed and what's useful to be changed along with the bearings.

[Gary Lewis]

There's not much beyond the stuff in that brake kit you listed and the bearings, seals, and retainers if it is a 9".  So we need to determine which rear axle you have - an 8.8" or a 9".

The sure fire way is to look at it.  The 8.8" has a removable rear cover while the 9" doesn't.  And for comfort I'd decode the certification label.  Then there's the tag that should be on the axle.  Can you send a pic of it?

[ReneH]

Ok, I have the one with removable rear cover, so it should be the 8.8.

I can send a photo of the label this evening, if it's still there...on my jeep the most of the labels of the differentials and gearboxes weren't there or readable anymore...

[Gary Lewis]

There are two different 8.8" axles, but it really boils down to whether you have a "locking" or "non-locking" differential.  The certification label and the tag will both tell.  Then I can give you the parts list.

[ReneH]

Hi Gary,

that's what I've found. Are these images useful or do I have to remove and clean the label?