Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[ReneH]

OK, so it seems that my truck wasn't in such a bad condition compared to what I've read above.

At the weekend I'll go to set my rear-tires on a balancing machine to check if the deep sound that comes up only (hearable) when driving above 60 mph.

I also have filled up my basket at RockAuto with all kind of brake- and wheelbearing components. Currently I'm no sure to order now or after the holidays. The shipping costs are very high cause of the weigt. But here in Germany I'll pay even more for the parts, cause the importers also seem to order at RockAuto and only add their profit.

As I have added rotors, calipers, pads, hoses for the front. Now I'n thinking about also to add pistons, shoes and so on for the rear breakes...I think to have them won't hurt, but to need them and don't have them will be bad...

[85lebaront2]

Buy complete wheel cylinders for the rear brakes.

[ReneH]

Yes...that's what I've meant...it was only a failure in my translation...

[ReneH]

So, another question...I still have a very uncomfortable oil-dipstick position. I've found this one:
eBay

Will this one fit? I only mean this about the oil Level...mechanical I get it fit, that's not the problem...

[Gary Lewis]

If you already have a dipstick that you believe is reading correctly then changing to another one should be easy.  Fill the engine so the level is at Full, change to the new dipstick, and mark on it the Full level.

[ReneH]

Hmm...that's a good question...I think it's correct...but if I compare the length from the end of the pipe to the end of the stick, it should also be the same as my current one...

Another question: what size has the dash speaker in my 86? 6x9 or 4x6 inch?

[Gary Lewis]

Our page at Documentation/Electrical/Radios and then the Speakers tab shows the dash speaker to be 5 1/2 x 7 1/2".  Don't know how easy it would be to stuff a 6 x 9" in there.  Haven't tried.

[ReneH]

So, today I've got 500 miles finished:


Tomorrow, I'll drain the oil and change the filter. I'll also add the ZDDP addive again.

Up to now, everything seems to be good. I've also checked now, if the kick-down works, as I've used an aftermarket cable, I was not sure if it does. But it works very good. It takes you deep inside the backrest...
Also the sound is incredible...my exhaust construction was a great success. Silent by constant driving and aggressive when accelerating. Above 3,000 rpm it sounds a bit like a dragster...I'll link a video tomorrow...

[Gary Lewis]

Well done, René!  It took a lot to overcome all of those obstacles, but you did it!  Congratulations!!!!!  

[ReneH]

Thanks, Gary!

Yes, indeed. Now the work can begin.
Before starting into holidays I've to solve some annoying sounds.

Starting with new break pads at the front, squiking door panels and rattling dash cover.

Tomorrow I'll be driving to a friend that will check if my tires are unbalanced...maybe that's the deep rolling noise that comes up when driving about 60 mph or faster.

Next week I'll build-up my center console that also contains a dual 6.5" subwoofer and the amplifier for it and for the center dash speaker.

I also will insulate the doors inside to get them a bit quieter. Same for the panels on the backside. If there enough time left, I'll take a look behind the side panels of the rear-bench and also insulate it.

It seems to me that the inner door handle makes noises...this part has a unusual fixing in my opinion. It seems to be mounted without screws.

Next Sunday I'll install the new blue top steering gearbox, check and change the differential fluid on both axles and put some more grease to all the u-joints and other greaseable points.

Last, but not least I'll install the central door locks to my remote that already controls the tail-window.

I hope, the time is enough for all this...

[Gary Lewis]

That sounds like a lot of work, but I hope it goes quickly and well.  

On the deep, rolling noise you might check to see that the tires aren't cupped or worn unusually?  But balance can do that as well.  So hopefully he finds what is causing it.

Squeaks and rattles drive me bananas, so I understand your desire to find and fix yours.  Good luck on that as well.

That center console sounds amazing, pun intended.    Are you going to run the center speaker in as a center channel?  Does your amp provide an output for that?

The Blue Top box is on its way?  Yippee!

As said, that is a lot of work but I know the feeling of wanting to get it all done before vacation.  Good luck!!!

[ReneH]

Hi Gary,

So I've found out, that the loudest squiking from the passenger side comes from the inner door handle. I have to check how I get it fixed again.

Regarding the center speaker:
I'll use  4 channel amplifier for both subwoofer and the center speaker. Front and rear output of the amplifier have a crossover, each. Both will be driven in bridge mode to get two mono-channels. So the center and also the woofers gets input from left and right channel. The center will get a high-pass filter, the woofers a low-pass.

The four speakers inside the doors and the rear side-panels are driven directly from the radio amplifier. Also setup with a HPF.

I'll send photos of my work as stating next weekend.

[Gary Lewis]

Does your door panel have a screw that goes into a support arm that prevents the panel from moving in/out?  Without it I could see the panel moving and squeaking a lot.

On the center channel, mono will work.  But in the olden days we used to create a center channel by using the + wire from one side and the - wire from the other.  That way the speaker only reacted to the things that were truly in both channels.

Another way to do that is to get a speaker with two inputs, so you wire both channels to it and since both are connected mechanically to the same cone only things that are in both move the cone.  But back in the day we didn't have those kinds of speakers available so did it electrically.

I have a center channel speaker in my shop wired that way and it works very well.

[85lebaront2]

Your sound system sounds like a nice setup. On rear speakers, the later trucks have a speaker location inboard of the door post. Maybe the later Broncos had something similar.

I have done something similar on my Chrysler Lebaron convertible, a six channel amplifier from a later Sebring convertible that incorporates a top down equalizer mode.

[ReneH]

Thanks. Yes, it's possibly I side the Door post. I'll post some photos these days.

But another question...you know what I've going through...do you think everything sounds normal?
Video

[Gary Lewis]

Not sure to whom that question was addressed, but it sounds normal to me.

[ReneH]

The question was for anyone who wants to answer...

Hear is the upgrade of the fixing of the inner door handle:



I'll be sure, it's quiet now...have to test this weekend.

[ReneH]

I've also found a fitting center. The depth is very closely (is this correct for: there is not much space left?

[ReneH]

So, currently I have a questions.

Vent window seal
How do I fix this? Is glue the only way to go?


I would use a silicone or a polyurethane glue...or some hybrid type...

[Gary Lewis]

Doesn't that snap into grooves?

As for the speaker, that should work nicely.

And have you driven it to see if the door handle sqeeks?