Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[Gary Lewis]

I'm glad you ordered the repair bearings!  You were prepared.  And I'm glad the noise is gone as well.  Good job!

But how are the brakes?  Are they improved?

[ReneH]

Thanks!

I don't know by now. I've done a test drive yesterday evening. It seems that there is still some air left inside the system.
Or maybe I haven't set the adjuster far enough. I will check this tomorrow.
But as bad as the breaks have looked, I think it will be an improvement. All shoes were smooth as a baby's bottom.


Also both cylinders were leaking...and the drums...

[Gary Lewis]

My way of adjusting rear brakes is to tighten the adjuster until the shoes start to drag, then bang the backing plate with a rubber hammer to center the shoes and tighten some more.  Repeat until you can't turn the wheel and back off 10 clicks.

That gives the preset and then, if it is working, the auto adjusters should kick in when you back up.

[ReneH]

Thanks Gary, I'll try this way.
By now I've got the air out of the system, I think. The rear and the front breaks are independent, as far as I know, so I don't have to bleed the front breaks.

[ReneH]

Breaks are done and I've got the TÜV last Saturday. The rear breaks got 300kN...

So as I wanted to get back to my center console, last Friday my CJ7s HEI distributor gets defective...
I have bought it 2019 and it lasts only 9,000 miles...I'm very exited what the shop will tell me, where I've bought it...very bad quality...

Now I have to solve this before...

[Gary Lewis]

Glad the brakes worked out.  Does the Bronco stop better now?

As for the HEI, there are lots of stories about modules made in China that fail quickly.  But the module itself should be easily replaced.  At least here most parts stores carry them.

[ReneH]

Yes, it stops much better now. Also the squiking noise seems to be gone. So it may also came from the rear breaks, not from the front. There is still a feeling, that something is wobbling when standing on the break pedal, but it may be only imagination...

About the HEI, I'm with you. Same story as we've told back again. I'll see what the shop will try to sell me. But all this is a very bad development about quality and durability.

[Gary Lewis]

That's one of the big reasons many of us aren't high on HEI conversions.  There's too much junk out there.  The good HEI modules are great, but if you can't get a good one...

[grumpin]

ReneH wrote

Yes, it stops much better now. Also the squiking noise seems to be gone. So it may also came from the rear breaks, not from the front. There is still a feeling, that something is wobbling when standing on the break pedal, but it may be only imagination...

About the HEI, I'm with you. Same story as we've told back again. I'll see what the shop will try to sell me. But all this is a very bad development about quality and durability.

It’s interesting that you say that. I sometimes notice wobble on braking in my 92 Bronco. Then I won’t notice it for awhile.

I feel it in the pedal.

I’ve just assumed the rotors need turned or replaced.

[ReneH]

Yes, that was also my thought, as changing the pads on the front breaks. But honestly I've forgotten this over time and the other problems I'd to solve.

So, for next year the front breaks have to be replaced. Rotors, calipers, pads and hoses.

I also have an already nicely painted master cylinder, that I will also mount in this step.

[Gary Lewis]

About that master cylinder.  Can you legally change out the master cylinder to a later style?  The later plastic/aluminum ones are much better than the old cast iron ones.  They don't leak, you can easily see how much fluid you have, and the brake system can be easily bled by applying 3 psi of pressure to the master cylinder via the screw-on lid.

I am a strong proponent of the later ones and do not plan to install one of the cast iron ones again.

[ReneH]

Hi Gary, yes...I can.

Is one of these recommended?
RockAuto

Will this year of build fit for me?
I have the 1986 cruise control...do I need also a master cylinder that supports this?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, one of those master cylinders will work.  However, you need one that includes the residual pressure valve as it is necessary to allow you to connect the brake lines.  And, by the way, the brake lines need to swap front to back and vice versa as the new master cylinders have the ports reversed from ours.

Luckily Larry Bolen/ratdude747 has been down this road, as reported on in this thread.  He said "Raybestos makes a new master cylinder for the later application that includes the residual pressure valve, the reservoir, and the reservoir level sensor, specifically MC39634".  And he bought his from Rock Auto.

As for the cruise control bit, don't sweat it.  The later cruise controls use a switch on the master cylinder to kill them.  But your cruise control doesn't use a switch there so there's no need to use that part of the master cylinder.

[ReneH]

Ok, that sounds perfect.

So I'll add this to my next order in which I'll buy new rotors, calipers, hoses and pads.

After this the break system has a complete overhaul. Only the booster stays the original, cause it works and I see no use to replace it...

[Gary Lewis]

Rene - Pull the master cylinder away from the booster and see if there's any wetness in there.  If so the master cylinder has leaked brake fluid into the master and it is just a matter of time before it fails.  Not if, but when.

If it is wet then I'd replace it while you have everything apart.  If it is dry then I'd keep it.

[ReneH]

Hi, can I also use the rotors for the auto-locking hub?
Rockauto.com 

The offer from Chad is good, but I can't invest so much in breaks and also new 17" wheels...so I have to stay with Factory breaks...

[Gary Lewis]

The page at Documetation/Driveline/4WD Front Hubs & Rotors says all Broncos use Parts List 5.  And that says all of them use D6TZ 1111-A rotors, regardless of what hubs are used.  So yes, you should be able to use those rotors.

Having said that, I don't understand why they'd say they are for auto-locking hubs.  Maybe you should ask them?

[ReneH]

Hi Gary,

I've ordered all the parts I need, including also the wheel bearings regarding to your list, you've created before.

Now, if I understand you right, I can bleed my whole break-system by applying pressure to a point at the 1994 master cylinder, I've also bought.
How does this work? Is there any information about or a video maybe?
Do I need special tools or a part/adapter with US threat?

[Gary Lewis]

Rene - Remember the trip I mentioned?  I’m about 440 clicks south of you, so won’t be on here very much.

But the way the bleeding works is to get a second cap for the master cylinder, put a fitting in it for compressed air, and then put about 3 psi on it. You don’t even have to have a compressor as you can use a garden sprayer to pump up the pressure.

Then just bleed starting at the longest run and stop when you get solid brake fluid w/o any bubbles.

[ReneH]

Hi Gary,

so we are pretty close, right now. Thinking in distances of some people living in the USA, you are as near as the next supermarket...
In German distances it's the way half through the whole country.

Ok, but haven't you said the 1994 master cylinder, I've bought, has a screw for bleeding the system or applying the pressure?

Have a very, very nice journey. I'm sad about, that we will have no time to meet.