Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[ReneH]

As I have enough tools with me, I will remove the cover of the tailgate tomorrow morning, before we start our journey back to Germany.

I'll check the version with the bumper, tomorrow. If the motor has to be overhauled, I can do this, when I'm back in my workshop.

Currently, my biggest problem is, that we can't access our baggage and we have no access to the stroller without removing one child seat and lift it into the cabin...

[grumpin]

The only other way I know of to get the window down is to crawl in back, take the panel off and take the motor loose.

I would have someone hold the window or tape it up and let it down easy.

To me this is only to replace the motor, not to get your luggage out.

[mat in tn]

I learned that trick 20 years ago. we stopped for lunch and when we came back out to the van it would not start. my assistant looked me strait in the eyes and said, "that's funny, it was running when you shut it off". I just stared back at him. he then jumped out and grabbed a large pr of pliers from the plumbing toolbox and went to banging on my 35-gallon tank and said try it now. it started! he jumps up and said you need a pump. it got a pump!

[ReneH]

So, I've crawled inside the trunk and removed the cover...a slight tip with a hammer on the motor and it works!

So I've closed the window and it goes down again...after 3 times, it stucks again in the closed position...never in the open position...

But it works. So it seems, that I should overhaul the motor...does anyone has a tutorial for me?

[Gary Lewis]

How 'bout: Documentation/Body/Bronco Rear Window?

[ReneH]

Ok...thanks!

So, I've checked the oil again today, as I'm back at home. I've driven 1895 miles and have refilled 1.9 liters in total...so the engine burns about 1 liter per 1000 miles...

50ml were in the catch can. If I remember correctly there were 40ml before, so 90ml in total for 1895 miles.

[Gary Lewis]

So you used 1.9L and of that .09L was in the catch can or about 5% of the total.

Once you settle back in to your life in Germany maybe you can run a leak-down test and determine where the problem is.  Again, at a liter per 1000 miles I'd just put oil in it and enjoy it.  However, I'd still want to know what the problem is.

[ReneH]

So it seems very hard to get GT40 or GT40P heads in Germany, even as hard as to find a Ford explorer with V8 engine...

I have found this at rockauto.com:
GT40P heads

Maybe they can tell me, when this part is available and what's the price for it.

I have also found some heads at summit racing, but due to a missing description, I don't know what type of head they're offering...

I'll perform the leakdown test maybe today, if I have enough time left...otherwise next weekend...

[Gary Lewis]

If it is that hard to get the other heads then I'd probably pass.  But I'd also not make plans until I knew what the issue is with the engine and oil consumption.  Hopefully the problem is in the heads, like the valve seals.

[ReneH]

Yes, you are right. But as everyone knows how much time all this will cost, I'm searching by now to find something useful. As you may know, I've planned to change the heads from the beginning, but it's always a decision with the costs in sight. (This is maybe German-English...)

I will locate where the oil has went, first. But as I also will change the intake mainfold, I need to know which one I need fitting to the heads. So that's the reason, why I'm searching so early for these heads.

[mat in tn]

you have gone to great lengths with this engine already by doing a stroker kit. I'm sure your vacuum signal is very strong and possibly 21" or more. and then you re installed the original heads? if so that seems to be a strong possibility of an oil consuming issue. however, if it is then it's mostly the oil seals. this can be addressed in the vehicle. by removing the upper intake and valve covers only. if the engine is running properly other than a little oil use that is the way I would suggest.

[ReneH]

You're right, I've stroked the engine and used the original heads. But I've let plan the block and also the heads. I've replaced the original valve shaft seals with ones in this style:
RockAuto

I hope, you've talked about the valve shaft seals...

We will see, what result the test will bring...

I still think better heads will be a consequence, when changing to the EEC-V, E4OD and a Holley HI-RAM-Intake...maybe also the exhaust ports are better constructed like the ones on my 302 factory heads...
I know, that I also may need new exhaust mainfolds...

My aim is to get this car to a perfect dayli driver and also for driving into holidays. So as I get not more than about 1,000 miles per year, I'm hoping to construct a very, very, very durable vehicle, which I can drive for some decades without to have to dive again such deep inside the engine, as I have done by now.

A bit more power and efficiency is something very welcome aside.

[mat in tn]

if you used the factory heads then I'm thinking they are the e5 casting. these are good heads and they were used on the 351w also. NOT high flow or high comp heads. just good general use for trucks from that era where hp was practically nonexistent. it was not the focus at the time as emissions was.
I like those valve seals with one caveat. there are basically two different sizes.  and if by chance the larger seals get installed on the smaller guide bosses it likely they will slip off the boss and ride the valve stem much like the old "umbrella" type seals. in that case they become much less of a seal and only a deterrent.