Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[ReneH]

Thanks Gary!

I have found the villain!

It was the o2-sensor!

My old sensor


This is, what's looking out at the top:


Looks like a ceramic splinter...

Also the heater has a resistance of nearly one mega ohm...

The test-drive hasn't shown the behavior like before. It feels, that the engine runs much smother. Also no sawing in idle, when the engine is warm.

[Gary Lewis]

Yippee!!!  Glad you found it!  

[ReneH]

So the radiator also has to be replaced. I've bought a new one, and that is, what I've found when replacing the old one:



It wasn't the torn bleeder scew, as I thought...

[Gary Lewis]

I think you have what I had - a gradual leak that ran down to the bottom and across to the valve and looked like the valve was leaking.  But no amount of sealing the valve made it stop.

Glad you found it 'cause eventually it would have become a major leak.  And those tend to manifest themselves at the worst possible time, like on a long trip when it is really hot.  Far away from home and all the tools, plus really uncomfortable to work on it.

[ReneH]

As the next holidays staring in about one month, I want to overhaul my transfer case.

I've bought a complete overhaul kit, including all bearings, gaskets and also the chain, some month ago.

Is there something special to know, that I'll not find in the documentation?

On Saturday, I'll remove the transfer case and also both drive shafts to replace the U-Joints. Depending on how far I will proceed, I will open the case and start to clean it.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know what transfer case you have, but I rebuilt my BW1345 starting here.  There might be some tips in that which would help.

But I'll also say to be really, REALLY careful as you take it apart and inspect and possibly label everything.  The hardest part for me was determining which seal went where and which way it faced.  So as yours comes apart take pictures to make sure you know.

[mat in tn]

IF you have a 1356 version there are a couple points to pay close attention to.
 number one is the "anchor tab" for the oil pump. the pump is held still in the case with a triangular arm with the outer end fitting between two ridges formed in the case. these have a history of wearing into and in some cases, through one of these two ridges. this is due to the contact point is too narrow and is commonly improved by welding a wider foot onto the end. Think "snowshoe".
 number two is the oil pump pickup tube. it is a plastic tube approx. 9" long and hast to clear steel components. pay close attention to its routing.
 the third is replace the plastic contact tabs on the shift fork and replace the fork if the tabs are already missing.

[ReneH]

Ok. Thanks to you both.

I've the BW1345. We have already talked about what type I have, last November, as I've ordered the spare parts.

I'll take a look on your thread, Gary. I also document everything by photo. I photograph the most things before and after. Thirty years ago, such a documentation would be more expensive than the spare-parts...

[ReneH]

Yesterday I've removed the T-Case and both driveshafts for overhaul. Using my gearbox jack makes this easier than I've thought.



I was surprised how light the BW1345 is. It feels, that the T-Case of my CJ7 is much heavier, also when it's much smaller.

When removing the rear driveshaft, I noticed, that there is much play on the output of the TC...

Video

I assume, this is not common?

[mat in tn]

that is a bit too much play for a captured bearing

[Gary Lewis]

I think if you look closely you'll see the yoke is moving on the output shaft.  That means the nut on the output shaft is loose.  And the speedometer output gear depends on that nut being tight or it'll slip on the shaft.  Don't ask how I know.

As for weight, if I remember correctly the front half of the case is magnesium and the back half is aluminium, or vice versa.  The t-case on your Jeep may be cast iron.

[ReneH]

There was no washer on the rear output yoke...is there one normally?

[Gary Lewis]

The illustration on our page at Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases and then the BW1345 tab shows one.

[ReneH]

Hmm...so I have to get a new one...

The bearing of the front output made nice sounds, when turning it by hand...so, that seems to be the reason for the rustling sound when the 4WD was activated...
Also the chain seems a bit sloppy...



My speedometer seems to work correctly. But what do you think about the drive gear?
I can't see any wear on it...but I don't have any comparison...


I see no wear on the gears, only some slight wear on the shafts.

Next weekend, it's time to clean the case and put all parts back together...

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know that the washer is all that special, so if you could find one that fits...

And the speedo gear looks good.  Just make sure you torque the nut holding the yoke properly or the gear will slip.

The chains are always a bit sloppy, but unless you bought a new one in your kit you'll probably be fine with the original chain.

Don't forget about what Mat said on the oil pump.

[ReneH]

About the slip of the gear, I also have thought about it, as you have seen, my yoke wasn't tight...so I'm wondering that my speedometer works relatively accurate...

Yes, I've read what mat has written about the pump. I also have seen a score, that the pump anchor tab has driven inside one of the ridges on the planetary gear cover.

As I can't weld, I may have to think about another solution...I'll post a photo, later.

For the tabs on the forks...I have new ones, but the old ones are very tight...they aren't fixed by glue or something?

[Gary Lewis]

I can't explain why your speedo worked seemingly ok, but mine sure slipped when the nut wasn't tight.  

On the tabs, I think they just push on and stay.  But I'd be afraid the old ones would break, so if I had new ones while I was rebuilding I'd put them in.

[ReneH]

As changing all u-joints on the drive shafts, I see that the spring and some needles of the u-joint yoke were broken. I will buy a new one.

Rockauto

[ReneH]

As having no welding machine, I used my grinder and dremel to repair the pump anchor pad:



Another question: on the exploded view l, there is a snap ring on the output shaft, if I haven't seen it wrong. On mine there wasn't a snap ring...

[BigBrother-84]

ReneH wrote

As having no welding machine, I used my grinder and dremel to repair the pump anchor pad:

Nice home made bracket!