Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[mat in tn]

very true. the breather option defeats the positive circulation

[85lebaront2]

Once he goes to an EEC-V and MAF that will change. The MAF systems have the closure hose running to the hose from the MAF to the throttle body so all air going into the engine passes through the MAF.

[ReneH]

Ok, I have to use the inline PCV setup:

[ArdWrknTrk]

Or you could just, you know, tap a hole for a barb fitting to a common point in the plenum and run the pcv hose to that.

It's a 2€ fitting and doesn't take any space.

Something different will have to happen when you change to maf because you don't want to keep contaminating the sensor and as Bill points out you can't bypass it.

[ReneH]

Yes, this may be an alternative...but for thus I have to disassemble the plenum...

I think this catch can also is the better invest for a future MAF setup.

[ReneH]

I've got the catch can yesterday and I will install it at the weekend. The best place I've found is the fender on the passenger side.

Will the 8th cylinder be able to burn the oil coal, when the catch can only delivers oil-free air?

Maybe the oil from the pcv toghter with the ATF from the vacuum switch on my gearbox have clogged the O2-Sensor before. On the other hand, I've found a loose piece of ceramic inside my defective o2-sensor, what makes it more likely, that the sensor had a mechanical defect...

I will post a video next time, when I start the engine, cause I'm not sure, if everything is like it should...

On startup the engine runs with 2,000 rpm or more for some seconds, independently from the ambient temperature...

[mat in tn]

once the pcv stops producing accumulation of oil inside the intake/runners then the problem caused by the oil will clear up rather quickly. the fuel from the injector is a good cleaner of many deposits. yes, oil consumption or even excessive fuel can ruin a sensor or catalytic converter.
how is the catch can going to be able to drain back if the position of it is not above and close to the pcv valve? or did you get one that needs to be cleaned occasionally?

[ReneH]

Hi Mat,

from the position I have evaluated, the catch can will be higher than the PCV valve.
But sure, it's some inches away from the PCV and the connector on the intake.

I will check again, if there is space somewhere on the firewall, but I don't think.
Maybe close to the break booster...

I've bought a catch can with a reservoir to collect the liquid oil inside. The can has a dipstick to check how much is inside. I can open the catch can to empty the liquid oil.
So I think, I have to clean it from time to time...

[ReneH]

So, it comes faster than I've expected...here are the possible mounting positions:

[mat in tn]

it seems that the position beside the wiper motor will work the best although it does get crowded there. i dont think the fender mount is good unless it clears the hood hinge. mounting it where the accumulator/drier was or even where the egr use to be seem simple enough.

[ReneH]

Hi!

As checking and also doing my yearly service, especially for preparing the bronco for our holidays journey, I've done the following today:

Finding and clearing the leak of my oil cooler, by fastening one screw of the pipes, that enters the cooler.

Mounting the catch can.

Replacing the red silicone hoses by blue ones for my washers connection and for the overflow of the radiator.

Changing the air filters.

Changing the U-Joint yoke and one u-joint to one's from SKF:
Since I've done this, the deep rolling sound is vanished, when driving more that'll 70 miles...

Changing the engine oil and filter.

An interesting thing was, that only 2.1 quarts comes out while draining the oil. I also have drained the old filter to get to this volume of about two quarts.

I've filled in 6 quarts, including the additive.
Now my dipstick shows a maximum overfill, what can't be, cause the 6 quarts are the volume that should be inside the engine...
So do I have had much too less oil inside before???

Here are some impressions:

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you are getting things ready for your holiday, Rene.  

As for the oil level being high, have you started it and filled the filter?  Probably, but I thought I'd ask.

Anyway, good that you found that noise.  Apparently it was the u-joint.

[ReneH]

Regarding the oil level: yes, I have started the engine...but also if I let it run and drive some miles, it's much above what my dipstick can show. I've done a score with a chisel to show me the correct level.

[ReneH]

I've got a very good looking heater control today...



I will test and overhaul this unit when we are back from holidays...or maybe before, if I have enough time left.
Is it a huge afford to change this unit? I've seen that there are much vacuum lines going in.

What's about what I've written before:

An interesting thing was, that only 2.1 quarts comes out while draining the oil. I also have drained the old filter to get to this volume of about two quarts.

Dies someone has an explanation for me?
The oil pressure was good, all the time and also hasn't changed after adding the correct amount oil...

[ArdWrknTrk]

How much did you put in before?
If it isn't leaking it then you must be burning it.
As long as the sump pickup is submerged you'll have oil pressure, even if you only have 2/5 of what you're supposed to have.
That 2 quarts/liters will be doing more than twice the work it's destined for and only able to carry less than half the heat away, like it should.

As I said the rings need to seal, and in order to get a ring seal not glaze, you need to break in with enough cylinder pressure to force the rings into the cylinder walls.

Have you done a leakdown? (especially on #8)

[ReneH]

I've put in 6 quarts, every oil change.

I've also checked if there are metal chips inside with a magnet. Nothing noticeable found.
The oil I've got out was relatively thick, so this may confirm what you've said about the higher temperature load the oil had to handle.

As I've reassembled the engine, I've done the cam break-in three times, cause two cams had failed.
I hope this have had generated enough cylinder pressure to seat the rings.

But at all, I can't imagine, that all the oil was burned...I haveen't had not the typical smell and look of the exhaust gases when oil was burned. Also I have been to the German TÜV in August 2023 and they have performed a CO-Test, which was, (don't let me lie) about 0,5%. Burning oil should also raise this percentage.

I only have a cylinder pressure tester in my stock. Do you think I should check this and buy a tester to perform a leakdown?

It seems, that much oil was sucked to cylinder #8 though the PCV. As I've installed the catch can and changed the hoses, they were very oily inside...
I also have no oil-loss to the ground. The engine is absolutely perfect sealed to the environment.

[ArdWrknTrk]

You've already said you never lost oil pressure....
If bearings were wiped, you would lose pressure
-OR-
If you lost oil pressure you'd expect wiped bearings and attendant metal in the oil.

If oil is going through #8 (or even all cylinders) then it is being "burned"

You seem to have so much blow-by that a PCV system can't handle it and you need a catch bottle or oil/vapor separator....

If that's so, there's only one cause and that's terrible ring seal.
It could be scored cylinders, but you say no metal, no odd noises.

Do yourself a favor before patching another symptom.
Conclusively determine the cause of crankcase pressure and address the cause.
 

[ReneH]

Ok, as all other cylinders, plugs and valves look fine, there is only #8 left as suspect.
Some posts earlier, you have written, that "it probably just needs to be driven enthusiastically  and the rings will finish seating"

Is it possible that #8 rings haven't seated after 6000 miles? Maybe I have to perform some jump-starts or use the kickdown to increase the pressure to the cylinders when the engine is at operating temperature...

Will also a cylinder pressure test give me a hint? Or may should I order a gauge to perform leakdown test?

Maybe also my memory is deceiving me and I had bleed the oil, cause the dipstick shows that it is full and it wasn't. What I know for sure is, that my old dipstick shows wrong and also the new one does the same.

That's why I have had bled the oil completely (Oil plug removed, filter removed, filler cap removed) for some hours and filled exactly 6 quarts in (including the 0.31 of the additive). Then I've let run the engine to warm-up, cool down, pulled the dipstick and made a mark with a chisel.

[Gary Lewis]

I would start by doing a leak-down test to determine if you have a poor seal on the rings.

[ReneH]

OK. I have bought a leak-down tester on amazon. Once assumed, that I have poor rings on #8...can I drive into holidays without pain?

Should I try something I have mentioned before to seat the rings (jump-start, kick-down)?