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ALL cylinders...
Just because #8 has to eat all the blow-by doesn't mean that the other 7 cylinders aren't contributing. With that much pressure I'm surprised that you don't have leaks everywhere F&R main seals, valve covers , etc... But to come up almost 4 quarts short is something I've never seen unless there was a hole in a piston, a head gasket let loose or ....
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by ReneH
You wouldn't need to do the leak-down test before you go as you won't have time to repair the engine. If you are taking it on holiday then you need to figure out how often you need to check the oil level and take enough oil with you. Or use a brand you can easily buy on the trip.
Then, when you get back, do the leak-down test and determine the path forward. But I doubt that you would be able to seat the rings now.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Ok, that sounds reassuring...
That's what's in the can after 25 miles. About 20ml. That's my level mark, that I've set after the change:
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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So 80ml per 100 miles x 30 = 1.8l
I'd imagine more loss at higher rpm where the crankcase has less time to equalize to atmosphere between power events. Yet the engine held together with almost no oil. Gary offers good advice. Enjoy your vacation and keep an eye on the oil level when you fuel up Do the leakdown when you get back.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Oh...I've made a mistake 250 miles for 20ml...forgetting an number can cause bad misunderstandings...
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Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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Off by an order of magnitude!
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
This post was updated on .
Hmm...but this isn't much loss what I have...less than half a liter for 6,000 miles...so maybe...I hope for it...I have set the oil level according to my false dipstick and not according to the 6 quarts from the manual...
I have found a record that I have written down after my last oil change, that I have filled in 5.5 quarts last time including the additive. Minus 0.5 quarts, that I've lost due the PCV and also the fact, that the engine was "new" and the rings haven't eaten at this time, it's possible that the loss of oil was caused by the first 1,000 miles or so and I haven't seen it caused by a wrong dipstick... After breaking-in the engine/cam, I have driven 500 miles and made the first oil-change. After another 5,600 miles, I have done the current oil-change, the one who got bled only 2.1 quarts. Let's see, what the oil level will tell after the 1,500 miles round trip to holidays and back.
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I've bought a leak-down tester yesterday. So how is the best way to perform the test? I have to get both valves closed to see if the pressure passes the piston rings. Setting piston #1 to this point is no problem, but what is the best way to set the other pistons to this point? Or is the fastest way to "try" it?
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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I took a very thin tape measure and wrapped it around the harmonic balancer to determine the circumference. Then I divided by 4 and marked the balancer every 90 degrees from TDC.
Set #1 to TDC and do it leak-down test, checking adjacent cylinders, the intake, the exhaust, and the cooling system for air. Turn the balancer 90 degrees and do the test for the next cylinder in the firing order. Etc. Some say you can test two cylinders at each point as the opposite cylinder should have its valves closed. But I haven't tried that as it is easy enough to test one at a time. If you don't get the piston at exactly TDC then it may try to move down with the air pressure. But I've not had a problem if I really get it on TDC. And I always use 100 psi as that lets me easily determine the % leak down.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Is it possible, that only my PCV valves is defective?
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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No
The PCV is a check valve with a calibrated vacuum leak. It can't cause oil migration or excessive crankcase pressure on it's own.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Greetings from France!
A short question about the fuel: Here in Europe, we have three different types of gasoline: Super Plus (98 octane, 5% ethanol) Super E5 (95 octane, 5% ethanol) Super E10 (95 octane, 10% ethanol) In Germany I always take the Super E5, but in France the most gas stations only sell E10 and Super plus...as Super plus costs about 1.87 euro per liter and E10 only 1.72, my question is, if I also can use E10... In Germany the most mechanics prefer E5 or Super plus for oldtimer, cause the higher percentage of ethanol should be bad for the gaskets...as far as I remember the most problematic gaskets are the ones in the carburetor. As I have an injection, the question is, if I can fill in also E10 or maybe a mixture of E10 and Super plus, what I've done the last times... Thanks in advance!
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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I run 10% ethanol when I can't find pure gas and it doesn't cause any problems. However I don't think it lasts as long in the tank as pure gas so I like to run it out and refill with pure gas as soon as I can. So you'll be fine with E10 on your trip.
What part of France? Are you to Corsica yet? I ask because the email ahead of this one was from a company on Beaune where we are going to rent a 2CV in March and spend the day putt-putting around in it. And then three days in Paris and finally 6 days going down the Rhone on a boat from Lyon to Arles.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Ok, that calms me down and especially my wallet...
We are now in south France, at Marseillan Plage. If I can do something for you from here, It would be a favor for me!
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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Thanks, but we are good. Going to be east of where you are.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I've checked the amount of oil, that the catch-can has catched after 726 miles...it is only 1.35 oz.
So I loose round about 0.002 oz per mile...is this much? It would take about 17,000 miles to loose 1 liter of oil on this way...
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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You and Vivek need to get together and compare notes.
If the oil is not on the ground, not getting sucked into the intake, and not being pushed into the radiator, there are very few options left
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by ReneH
But in those 726 miles how much did the oil go down on the dipstick? I think Jim's point is that if the oil level went down more than what went into the catch can then it is going somewhere else and not just through the PCV system.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I understand, what you mean. As I'm parking relatively steep, it's not so easy, currently. I have to check it, when we are parking on a supermarket parking lot.
I also have checked the milage again. I need 18 liter on 100km, started with a full tank, 150kg baggage, two adults and two kids with kid seats. So all together, we have 435kg including the gas as load. So it's 13 mpg with 960lbs total load. I've measured this with an average of 70 mph on the highway.
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Jim, I have grudgingly accepted the fact that my truck burns oil. In fact both my 460 trucks do. I think Big Blue burns probably a quart every 1500-2000 miles... and the Bronco hopefully I can bring it to 1000 miles/quart with an oil treatment (basically high mileage oil)...
The catch can in my opinion, same as Rene's observation is just not enough to account for the oil burn. It will definitely help keep that oil off the back of the intake valves and spark plugs... so I think just about any vehicle can benefit from a PCV catch can..... I found about 4ml in my catch can after 80 miles or so... so that just not enough to even burn a quart every 10000 miles (Actually that is a quart every 18920 miles burning that way)... So my plans is to keep driving this way. Top off oil as needed. Change spark plugs. Use an oil treatment like Rislone to keep rings free. Still cheap thankfully!
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
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