Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[mat in tn]

there have been a few times in the shop where we went through numerous tps's to get one to work in sync with a particular vehicle. it would be so easy to blame manufacturing inconsistencies, but it just is what it is. I recommend motorcraft only, and only as an attempt to get the best available. a 93 took three, motorcraft being the last. an 89 took four, motorcraft being the last and a foxbody took three, motorcraft like the others. not everyone wants to wait on ordered parts or pay three times as much as the corner store but often pay way more in returns, gas, inconvenience and yes, time.    

[ReneH]

Timing is still 12 degrees.

I can't repeat this error when not driving...

I was driving now with this TPS about more than half a year...
But yes...regarding to the behaviour, a common error can be excluded.

The only interesting thing about is, that after I drive and get this error,
sometimes the idle gets raw and rpm variies between 200rpm in P-gear.

by the way...what do you think about my transmission oil-level?

[mat in tn]

the oil for the transmission I'm assuming was at the proper level recently. so where did it go? first off is it leaking. any spots on ground/ floor or any wetness along the underside of the bronco? second, pull the hose from the vacuum modulator and see if any fluid is inside the hose. c6 modulators are a vacuum diaphragm and if cracked or leaking vacuum they will suck fluid into the engine and get consumed. at the start it can be small enough to not give off noticeable smoke out the exhaust.

[Gary Lewis]

It is interesting that this seems to have started with leaving the headlights on.  And the only thing that could have done is to drop the battery voltage quite a bit.  In my experience that can erase the learning the ECU has done and make some things not work quite right.

But if you've driven it 50 miles I'd have thought it would have learned by now.  And if there are no codes other that the EGR ones then the computer seems fairly happy.  That confuses me and I don't know what to suggest.

But have you noticed any difference in the way it is driving after 50 miles to when you first started it?

As for the transmission, did you check the level in the same place you always do?  If so then I'd check the vacuum modulator to see if it is blown and sucking ATF into the engine.  Pull the vacuum line on it and see if it is wet.

[ReneH]

No, there was no difference after driving the 50 miles...so maybe Mat is right to suspect the TPS.
If there were a sensor out of range, the EEC would register it, as far as I know.

Regarding the C6, I'll check the vaccum line. I have some small spots under the car...but not very big ones.
So sucking it inside the engine, may be a possibility. I havent change the modulator.

Can the C6 cause such a behaviour? Maybe caused by this modulator and burning the ATF?

[Gary Lewis]

I doubt the transmission can cause that behaviour but maybe?  Give it a try.

I'm still thinking it is associated with the low voltage.  But I really don't know.

[ReneH]

Maybe the low voltage is not linked with it and all coming up together is only a coincidence...

Here is what I've found on the transmission:


Intel...I mean ATF inside.

I'll order a new one and also a new TPS.
It's the most likely suspect, that may can cause this behavior...in my understanding.

Will this one from a 1994 351W work?
Rockauto

Also if the ECU is able to test the base resistance, it doesn't know what happens between minimum and maximum...

[ReneH]

Which one is the right one?
Green, purple, black strip???

[mat in tn]

wipe yours clean as possible and see if yours has any color stripes. yours looks to have a bolt down bracket holding the modulator in place making it a push in type.

[ReneH]

Nothing to see anymore on my modulator.

I've found this information:

"The black stripe is a small diaphragm/low vacuum modulator and is mainly used in heavier vehicles and trucks. It has a low shift point. This modulator is also popular in performance applications due to the low shift point.

The purple stripe has a slightly larger diaphragm and is designed for use in normal to heavier passenger vehicles. It has a medium shift point.

The green stripe is similar to the purple stripe, but will provide a slightly later shift point. It is designed for normal passenger vehicle usage and is the most popular modulator used the C6."

So I'll order a black and a purple type. Or maybe better all three...

[mat in tn]

please verify that it is a push in and not a screw in before ordering what it lloks like from the picture is not a guarantee.

[ReneH]

There is only push-in available.
Mine is also push-in. Secured by one bracket.

[ReneH]

I'll order a new one and also a new TPS.
It's the most likely suspect, that may can cause this behavior...in my understanding.

Will this one from a 1994 351W work?
Rockauto

[mat in tn]

are you using a throttle body from a 351w? or are you still using the 5.0 throttle body and upper/lower intake? buy parts like this for the 5.0 regardless of the stroker kit.

[ReneH]

Im using a 351W throttle body and also the 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory camshaft.
All from 1989 model.

I have bought now the 1994 TPS from Motorcraft and the C6 modulator with black and purple marking.

Let's see, how it works.

For the TPS setup, I'll try to get it work between 0.9V and 4.5V.

Yesterday I've refilled 0.5 liter ATF in my C6.
Now I've got the level between the two points on the dipstick, measuring warm in idle.

[ReneH]

I also got the time to install my new windshield washer:









It sucks the reservoir empty within 3 minutes...it works very well and much better than the original washer nozzle.

I thought about using the whole reservoir for washer fluid and disconnect the cooler overflow. But I can't get off the lid of the reservoir to clean and work on it.

I also use wiperblades made for the 1994 LeBaron. In my opinion better than the ones, rockauto.com shows me as correct parts.
TRICO 18190.

[Gary Lewis]

You bought the modulator and TPS but don't have them installed yet, right?  And after filling the transmission did it drive any differently?

As for the washer reservoir, I've not found a good way to seal the top back on - assuming you can get it off w/o breaking the old plastic.

And I really think you'll be sorry you don't have the overflow reservoir for the cooling system if you were to merge the two.  The system needs some place to put coolant when it heats up, and you really want it to suck that coolant back in instead of sucking air back in.

[ReneH]

Yes. I'm waiting for rockauto.com delivering me the parts. Maybe end of this week.

Yes, the behavior has come up again, but I haven't done longer trips anymore. At least on Friday I have to drive a longer distance.

Ok...then I'll stay with the original washer fluid container.

What you say about the cooling system is very interesting...my container is connected to the overflow output of the radiator. So as far as I know, this is a one-way connection. Coolant fluid only will come out here, if the maximum pressure of the radiator cap is reached. No way back for the fluid.





There is another connection on my radiator, that was plugged by the former owner. I don't know what to connect here.
Maybe the container has to be connected here and the overflow output directly below the cap has to be connected only with a hose to drop the overheated fluid to the bottom, when the cap opens.

[Gary Lewis]

The little disc on the radiator cap that is at the very bottom and dangles loose when turned right side up is actually a check valve. It closes under pressure, like when the system warms up. But it opens when the system cools and starts to pull a vacuum. When it opens the coolant in the overflow reservoir gets sucked back into the radiator. But if there’s no coolant in the reservoir it sucks in air.

So you need the overflow reservoir and you need to keep some coolant in it. A properly operating cooling system will push coolant out into the reservoir when it warms up, and the warmer it gets the more it pushes out, and then suck it back in as it cools.

[ReneH]

Ok. That's interesting...I can't remember, that there was liquid inside the reservoir.
But I never have had problems with the cooling-system...

Is it possible, that the hose is connected on the wrong output on the radiator?
Has the hose on the output nearer or farer from the cap?