Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[Gary Lewis]

Perhaps, given the variables involved, such as the type of belt, the belt wrap, smoothness of the pulley, and the belt tightness we should just say "somewhere around 100 amps" for the limitation of a V-belt.  In any case a single V-belt is the weak link in a 3G setup

As for the battery(s), I keep Big Blue on a charger when I'm not driving him.  He has so many electronic devices on him that they will pull the battery down some when just sitting.  The dashcam setup monitors all the time so pulls current, and while it has a turnoff point if the voltage gets low, I don't want to take the battery down that much.

[ReneH]

Ok, so you mean that the ECU could be the problem, cause it gets undervoltage?

So, as far as I can imagine, a reset by disconnecting the battery for some minutes  should fix the problem...

In case of the belts I'm still think about a flat belt conversion...but as far as I remember, this is relatively expensive...

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, the ECU might be the problem, but I don't think there is anything for you to do but drive it.  If I'm right the undervoltage did the same as disconnecting the battery, meaning it cleared out some of the memory functions.  So now you just have to drive it to let it learn again.

As for the belt conversion, it would stop the squeal as the ribbed belt appears to be able to transfer enough power for the 3G.  But if it is expensive it may not be worth it.  Just don't leave the lights on or put a charger on it before you start.  If the battery isn't very low it won't slip very much or very long.

[ReneH]

For the belt, I've got another idea...
I have a double belt pulley on my alternator that doesn't fit to my crankshaft pulley, cause it originally was designed to connect the A/C compressor.

I will measure the offset to my crankshaft pulley and I let turn a new alternator pulley to get two V-belts on it.

I think this will be the easiest way to get rid of this problem.

[Gary Lewis]

In my experience the groove for the 2nd belt on the alternator pulley is thinner than the other groove.  So my fear has been that you'll have different "gearing" ratios between the two belts.  Maybe one sits higher in the pulley than the other.

But if you can get it set up where you can run two belts that would be great.  I had to make a pulley for Dad's truck to do that, and it did it by enlarging the 2nd groove on an aluminum pulley to take the same size belt as the other groove.

[ReneH]

Yes, I think it's cause it's normally connected to the smog pump. The free groove on the crankshaft pulley is connected to the A/C. So they won't fit naturally.

But I have another question:
Can I thrust my dipstick?

I have bent the pipe to get it fit to my layout of the engine. I haven't shorten it. But it really shows nothing...I've done an oil change and added the amount described in the manual. The dipstick shows really nothing.

Adding too much oil is bad. Adding too less not really better...so I think the best way tonfix it is to change the dipstick to a straight one out of the Ford Mustang.

What do you think?

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know what you mean by "Can I thrust my dipstick?"  But if you have a stock pickup pan and put the regular 6 quarts in on an oil change you should see it on the dipstick.  So if you mean find another dipstick that will register "Full" after a change then yes, you should do that.

[viven44]

Read as 'Trust'

[ReneH]

Oh...I see...

Ahh...I'm searching for a special dipstick that adds some additional thrust, if needed for a better acceleration...also known as "boost-stick"

[ReneH]

Ok. So I definitely should change my dipstick.

I found one, made of stainless steel, that fits to Ford 260 289 302cui Small Block "D" Engine
Length: 20.25" - 514mm

Will this fit? They don't say something about the year of the engines...

This is the setup...so a straight one will fit much better, I think.



So, this is what my dipstick shows me, after an oil change with 6 quarts...

Maybe it looses the oil inside the long, bent tube.
Oilpressure is ok, so this is, why I don't trust this dipstick...

[Gary Lewis]

I think yours is from an E-Series van as you only had access from the front.  And yes, I think the one you've found should work.

[mat in tn]

bending the tube and the dipstick should not have any meaningful change. the dipstick tube enters the block at the same angle regardless. therefore, the dipstick stays at relatively the same angle for measure bending around a header or other accessory a little for reach or access should be fine. the real question is whether the dipstick and tube are a matched set. the dipstick should extend a few inches past the tube in the pan.

[viven44]

I have a feeling bending might be a cause of variation on dipsticks. Will need to do some math. Imagining a 400m race at the olympics and how the guy in the inner track and outer track are spaced to account for the curvature

If someones got a dipstick and tube out, can you try bending the tube and seeing if the dipstick moves in or out at the bottom end ?

[ReneH]

About the dipstick, I will order the straight one.

About the new belt...I found what I was looking for...Here it is...





The power-steering pump is still connected by a V-belt, directly to the crankshaft pulley.

I think this is a good solution, cause all kits for a conversion  to a Serpentine belt starts above 500 USD...and there is much work to fit the tension pulleys...

[ReneH]

Hi, does anyone know, if this brackets will fit and if they are useful, especially when I switch to the gilmer belt for the alternator?

I have no A/C installed...

Brackets 

Gilmer conversion

[mat in tn]

I'm not sure about this. it will fit the engine but may not fit the vehicle. these parts are for mustang which holds the components at different angles and possibly different depths. which accessory drives do you need? alt, water pump, power steering, most likely but what about a/c?
I like more power as much as the next guy but if you are only going down this rabbit hole over an alternator, I would consider a lighter alternator. these systems have been working in massive numbers for years. is there really a need for this?? my original truck still has the original. a 60amp I believe.

[ReneH]

Hi, I have asked the dealer about the fitment to my Bronco.

I have only the 3G alternator and the power steering pump and of course the water pump.

I have changed the alternator to 3G, cause
It was recommended to me.

The 1G is weak, the 2G tends to burn. The 3G are the best choice. So as my 1G has defective bearings, I followed the recommendations.

[ReneH]

Hi Gary, so as it seems the theory of the forgetful ECU isn't correct.
I have been driven about 50 miles and the error still occurs.
I also have done a reset by disconnecting the battery for about 10 mins. - Also no change.

So the error occurs only, when:
1. The engine is warm.
2. Driving at constant speed and trying to accelerate slowly

If I press the pedal with more force, it doesn't occur.
The idle is raw. (I have done a video)

When I try to accelerate slowly, it feels like annything stucks...pressing the pedal more, seems to release it.

I'll start checking error codes first.
Then I'll check the timing.

Offtopic:
It also seems that my gearbox has too less oil inside...

checked warm, in idle.

[Gary Lewis]

It is running lean for some reason when you slowly depress the throttle.  So yes, check the codes.  And if you don't see anything there check the throttle position sensor.

[ReneH]

Hi Gary, no codes expect of 41 and 33 on KOER-Test.
KOEO test quits with 11.
As I have removed the EGR, this should be not unusual.

TPS is between 0.86 and 4.5 volts...