Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's odd
I'm sure Gary can help when he gets back from church

[grumpin]

Looks like it's working!

Sorry for the hijack!

[Gary Lewis]

Dane - We had this one set up to notify people, usually the last person who posted, by email.  Doesn't have anything to do with subscribing to the thread.  So you should get an email notification when I post, which will prove my point.  But then I'll edit my post to turn off "assignments", which anyone can do when posting.

[grumpin]

OK, thanks Gary!

Figured I got fumble fingered!

[ReneH]

Today I've got repaired my tailgate window key-switch. I've combined it with my remote, to be sure I can open the window, also when the batteries have no more power.









So as I've lost the bracket and have had to fine a solution:

[Gary Lewis]

Wow!  That's a lot of circuitry for one window.  But, well done!  

[ReneH]

Yes, my speech....in the next steps, when I'll do a complete re-wiring, I will reduce the amount of cables needed.

I've done this already on my CJ7. I've replaced all cables with double insulated cables, distribution boxes and eliminated all connectors where possible.

I also have added more relays to get rid of switches, that have applied high power.

The electronics of the Bronco are more complex as my jeep are, but still very simple. So this should also be possible in a manageable amount of time.

By the way...my tailgate window is moving very slowly...could this be matter of contact resistance or is it more common that the motor has a lack of power?

[Gary Lewis]

Your speech is excellent!  My best German is jein, so I'm in awe of you.

Yes, relays can really help out the Bullnose trucks.  I didn't simplify Big Blue, but I'm sure all of the relays I added make him much more reliable AND give the accessories, like the headlights and HVAC fan, a lot more power.

On the window, assuming that you have good-sized wire to it, I'd guess it is a combination of things.  Like maybe a motor needing lubricated, or maybe even new bearings as old bearings can let the armature drag on the field.  You might look for shiny spot on the armature that indicates it is dragging.

What about the window mechanism?  Is it well lubed?  Have you used silicone spray on the weatherstripping?

[ReneH]

Thanks for the roses. Some phrases are out of Google translator...but I was good in English also at school. Currently I'm trying to learn French. But as I couldn't and haven't
to use it as much as English, it's a bit harder  to learn and to keep for me.

About the window: Currently I've still the original harness inside. So the wiring should have an acceptable size. While adding my own circuits, shown above, I've mentioned that some wires are already corroded inside. If I'm not wrong there are also some connectors between the motor and the harness coming from the interior switch, that can be also corroded.

I've lubed every moving metal part from the tailgate window. I also have used silicone spray for the weatherstripping.

I haven't disassembled the motor/gearbox and also haven't checked the bearings.

As it seems, maybe the best way to check, will be supplying the motor with an external battery and short wires, to check how it behaves. If it's the same behavior, maybe the motor or the bearings are bad. Otherwise the harness is the source of the problem...

Btw: I'm still searching for the heater control unit, where also the tailgate window control is inside. Mine is defective. The heater motor only works on maximum speed. The other two speeds won't start the motor. I already have replaced the heater motor, it's a new one inside.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I think I'd apply power directly to the motor and see how it works with full power.

But I'd not expect it to work "as new" since it isn't.  However you can usually help a motor by cleaning the commutator strips, checking the brushes, lubing the bearings, and checking for dragging.

On the HVAC control, are you sure the problem is the control?  Have you confirmed that the thermal limiter isn't blown?

In the schematic below you can see the thermal limiter in the resistor pack.  It does not apply to High, but does apply to the other speeds.  So if it is blown you'd have the symptoms you mentioned.

[grumpin]

That's a big window and the same size motor as the front door windows.

My Bronco seems slow with a new motor in it.

As Gary said, clean and lube the weatherstripping.

[ReneH]

So, I was off for some weeks. No time to work on the truck...

Regarding the window motor:
I have lubed everything well and also used silicone spray for the weatherstripping.
It's ok now. Works mutch better when the engine is running. So as the voltage raises, the current will drop, in my understanding...so I think the harness is also a part of the problem...
I think I've mentioned it before: the wires inside the tailgate were corroded. The copper inside is already greenish...

But another question...what is the maximum trunk capacity?
I've loaded 160lbs today...I only dare to drive about 30 mph...

[ArdWrknTrk]

You're metric.
You're also off by a decimal point.

The broncos carrying capacity can be found on the door sticker.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Doh!
On my phone phone it looks like you're showing the driveway pavers as your cargo!  

Still, subtract tare weight from GWVR/C

[Gary Lewis]

I'm pretty sure the current will raise when the voltage raises.  It worked that way for my HVAC blower motor.  But since power = voltage x current the power goes up a lot faster than the voltage goes up.

For example:

Voltage to motor @ 8.4v due to old wiring and current was 8.6A for 72 watts

Voltage to motor @ 13.0 volts because I jumpered around the trucks wiring and the current was 14.3 amps, which calculates to 186 watts.  And there was a huge difference in air flow.

So if your wiring is bad you might want to consider using it to trigger a relay that pulls power from a new, larger, wire from the battery via a fuse.  That's what I did for the blower motor and it made a big difference.

[Gary Lewis]

That's the way I "read" the picture - driveway pavers as the load.  And I'm with your earlier statement, he's off a factor of 10 as that's way more than 160 lbs.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think he's just showing the flattened rear tyre.


But, AGAIN, look at the door sticker for proper inflation pressures.

[ReneH]

Oh...I see...the Cargo has a weight of 1,060 lbs...
I try to use imperial units, to make it easier for you...



So, i don't really understand...Google says the GVWR is the total maximum weight of the vehicle...I thought before, this value is the weight of the vehicle itself...

But asking Google again, I see in my vehicle registration, that the empty weight is 2300kg...if I subtract it now from 2721kg, I'll get only 421 kg maximum load...I've added 480kg in the trunk...

[ReneH]

Hmm...ok...that's also possible. Adding some more volts will take the motor to generate more power...it's logical...the motors not having any control circuits that keeps the power constant.

[ArdWrknTrk]

When you do this, pump your tires to the max inflation pressure.

The truck won't squirm around and possibly roll the tire off the rim