Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[ReneH]

Gary,

Yes, it's possible, that I have connected the external diode opposite to the internal, if my IAC has an internal. I have connected it like shown in the 1986 circuit. When I've understood everything right on the FSB thread, the diode is shown there in the wrong direction...

I'll check my wiring these days and also which pin on the 1994 IAC is the signal pin.
Then I'll remove my external diode to see what will happen...

I think it's most likely, that the IAC is not working, as I have had idle problems from the beginning...

But I have no idea, how to check the IAC while it's installed...

I may also clean the memory of the ECU to let it learn again. After that I should also re-do the idle speed procedure as I've done before.

[ReneH]

Ok, I have had an error in my wiring...

The IAC wasn't working at all. I have solved it and now you can see how it behaves now:
YouTube

Is this behavior common? The interesting thing is, that the metallic rattling when starting the engine at such high rpm is gone...maybe it's better to start at higher rpm to get more and much faster oil to the lifters?

I have also connected the external diode. Without it the IAC acts very slow. So as it seems, is the diode for my IAC necessary.

[Gary Lewis]

Rene - Sorry for the delayed response, but I've been traveling since you posted.

Anyway, I'm not quite sure I understand what was happening in your video.  Did you touch the throttle during the video?  If not, I don't have an answer as to why it does that.  In my experience the RPM should go high on initial start and then come down slowly as the engine warms up or time elapses.  But it shouldn't go back up and then down as it appears it is doing.

But it is good that you got the IAC working.  That should make a huge difference.  And perhaps as you drive the truck the ECU will learn how to control it even better.

As for the rattling, I didn't hear it in the video.  Is it possible that it was the IAC clattering that you were hearing?

However, I don't think starting an engine and spinning it rapidly immediately is a good idea.  I'd want to get the oil pressure up before doing that.

[ReneH]

Hi Gary,

today it was too late for the video of the new behavior of the IAC. I'll do it tomorrow morning...

In the time between (and as the gas prices currently relatively low) I've checked my mpg...

Driving only city and shorter tracks, I've got 12.4 mpg. I think when changing to an overdrive gearbox, it could be much better.
Currently I'm driving relatively constant at about 2,500 to 3,000 rpm.

[Gary Lewis]

If the ECU is learning then it should settle down after a bit. And if the idle comes down on its own then it is working correctly.

As for the MPG, going to either an E4OD or a ZF5 should net you another 1 - 2 MPG. And it’ll make the truck seem more refined as the noise level comes down with the reduced RPM.

[ReneH]

Today I've recorded this video. It was at about 12 degrees Celsius when starting the cold engine:
YouToube 

In my opinion this seems to be OK.
What do you think?

[85lebaront2]

Looks about right. Sounds great!

[ReneH]

Ok, perfect...then I'm reassured

You have to hear (and also see the faces) when I have to overtake cyclists and it's necessary to use the kick-down...

In Germany V8s are very rare...

[Gary Lewis]

Looks and sounds great!

[ReneH]

So, today I have rebuild my steering coupler:











The damper is made from polyurethane, combined with a back-up disc made from stainless steel.

I've done a test drive and it works great!
All the sloppiness is out.

[ReneH]

I also have finished my center console to about 90 percent...













The only thing that's left, is to laser-cut and print two covers in wood optic, like the original part's look.

[grumpin]

Nice job on both!

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, VERY nice!  

But please explain what you mean by "laser-cut and print two covers in wood optic"?  I understand laser cutting, but what is "wood optic"? Does that mean "wood look"?  And where do the covers go?

[ReneH]

Thanks for the roses

I have three areas on the whole assembly (subwoofer+center console), that aren't covered with leatherette. I wasn't able to cover everything without overstretching the leatherette. So I've decided to cut covers made from PMMA and print them with water dipping foil. There are many wood looks (former an error in translation) available.


Here the top of the subwoofer, a surrounding border. I'll use a 3mm sheet of PMMA.


And here the front of the center console.
It will also cover the cup holder, cause I'll use a 6mm PMMA sheet.

I'm exited, how the water dipping will work.

The third area isn't visible on the photos. It's the back of the subwoofer. The leatherette is meeting there, so there is a abutting edge. To cover this, I'll use a storage net (I don't know, if this translation is correct...) and cover the back of it with felt, like the inside if the center console.

[Gary Lewis]

Ahhh!  That makes sense.  And will look good.  

And "storage net" both translates well and should work wonderfully!  

[grumpin]

Gary, I must have accidentally assigned myself to this thread. Can you unassign me?

I couldn't figure out how to do it myself.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Go to the gear next to 'options' where the pages are listed at the top.

Click unsubscribe this thread
Cleck confirm.

[grumpin]

Nothing happens when I click the gear. An admin function?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Sorry.
Options -next to the gear- should present a drop down menu.

[grumpin]

Thanks Jim, the option to unsubscribe isn't there, I tried to unassign earlier using edit.

Maybe it will take a bit to take effect.

Edit: Typo