Dad's Truck Build

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, like children.

Yes, the prep is going to make it easy. Here's the plan, but steps 1 - 4 will be done prior to Monday:

1. Install the transmission mount on the transmission and torque the fasteners
2. Install the flexplate on the engine, torquing the bolts down - after ensuring that the engine plate is already on the engine.
3. Pick up the engine and position it in front of the truck, and put it back on the floor - with the spacers under the legs so the pan doesn't hit the floor. (The ram on the shop crane leaks and it'll be on the floor the next morning if I don't put it down myself.)
4. Roll the transmission on its engine stand to the side and out of the way, ready to be picked up.
5. Pick up engine, remove stands, and bolt on the mounts, torquing them down.
6. Trundle forward w/the crane, lay the engine in place, and run the nuts on the mounts down finger tight and then prop the engine up from whatever end it needs it to be stable
7. Roll back, install the load balancer, pick up the transmission, insert the input shaft into the transmission ensuring that it seats in the splines and is lubed for the seals. Then install the torque converter into the transmission, ensuring that the three "steps" are felt and that the hub of the transmission is 1/4" behind the mating surface of the bellhousing. And strap the torque converter in place so it can't fall off as the whole thing is lifted into place.
8. Trundle forward to lay the transmission down behind the engine. Making sure there is some lube on the pilot of the torque converter, mate the transmission to the engine and the torque converter to the flexplate. Make sure that there's a bit of slack where the torque converter isn't in a bind.
9. Torque the flexplate nuts, and torque the transmission/engine bolts
10. With the transmission still held by the shop crane, raise/lower the transmission and move the crossmember until the transmission mount's studs will engage with the crossmember and install the nuts finger tight on the studs.
11. Use a jack under the crossmember, suitably padded, and ease the transmission down onto the crossmember. Square up the crossmember with the frame to find the right position, including the brace, then mark the hole positions.
12. Remove the crossmember, supporting the transmission with a jack, and drill the holes. Paint the holes, twice, and let the paint dry.
13. Install the crossmember, lower the transmission onto it, and torque all the nuts/bolts down for the crossmember, transmission mount, and engine mounts.
14. Install the transfer case using either the shop crane or just carry it by hand, coat the gasket with Ultra Gray, and torque the bolts down.
15. Lay the quilt over the front of the bed, and lower the cab onto the frame, making sure the mount bolts are aligned. Tighten the fasteners finger tight. (They'll be tighted appropriately when John aligns the cab with the bed.

Wow! That's a lot more than I thought when you type it out.

Anyway, comments welcomed! What am I missing?

[Ford F834]

Gary, did you by chance measure where the transmission cross member mount holes were on the Huck? I’m just wondering if you really will need to drill. On the IDI 4x4 trucks you can interchange at least the T19, C6, and ZF without frame drilling as long as you have the respective cross member that goes to the transmission. I realize in your case you have the added element of a 400 with an E4OD which was never a factory combination, but provided the rear of the block is in the same place as a 460 you at least have a chance. Maybe the E4OD trucks had more or different holes drilled.... just curious if you compared frame holes before you sent it on it’s way.

[Gary Lewis]

I did measure, but I don't know where the measurements are.  However, it is sort of a moot point as the E4OD crossmember is an odd duck.  The passenger's side is L-shaped with the leg of the L pointing up and bolting to the outside of the frame.  However, the driver's side is just like the other crossmembers in that it sits on the bottom lip of the frame and the brace bolts to the top.

But, there are no bolt holes in that area, which is several inches back of the regular crossmember bolt holes.  However, this is the Swiss-cheese frame, so there are holes in the side of the frame, not just bolt holes.  It looks like I won't have to bolt where a hole is, but I'm not sure yet.  

[Ford F834]

Hopefully you will miss the Swiss cheese holes 😬. I didn’t realize the E4OD was so different. Will the difference in C channel height matter? I’m thinking the F250/350’s were taller?

[Gary Lewis]

I don't think the height is different at that point. I say that because it appears to fit nicely with the measurements I've taken. And, it appears to miss the holes in the cheese frame.

[Ray Cecil]

Gary, truck is looking great. Sorry I havent been on much. Been busy. I plan to get on here more as I start working on the garage again.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Ray.  But no apologies are needed.  God, family, and work are more important than trucks.  

[85lebaront2]

When I installed the E4OD in Darth, the length differences were: OA length 3" longer than the C6, mount pad, 7" further back than the C6. I am pretty sure F150s got the E4OD as did Broncos, it was used on the 300 and 351 applications as the AOD/AODE/4R70W wasn't considered strong enough for the torque of those engines. This would most likely have been aero nose models (1992-96), although possibly some late brick nose models could have had it, particularly 4WD models.

Gary, I would almost be scared to really push that truck hard with the Swiss cheese frame, the power that 408 has, particularly low done could probably twist that frame.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, that engine is going to be stout, especially down low.  But Diesel Brad has a pulling truck w/a Swiss cheese frame, and he's getting lotsa power from his engine.  So while the frame may twist, it apparently comes back to its original shape when the power comes off.

Anyway, yes the E4OD is a big dude.  It'll look impressive when coupled to that engine and backed up by the BW1356.  Gonna take lots of cab-off pics.  In fact, my son just said to make sure I send him one on Monday.  

[1986F150Six]

Gary Lewis wrote

Too easy?!?!  Nobody in their right mind would ever do this - assuming "this" is take every nut, bolt, washer, and spring down to base metal and then coat it.  

Bing offers: nobody in their right mind. phrase. If you say that nobody in their right mind would do a particular thing, you are emphasizing that it is an irrational thing to do and you would be surprised if anyone did it. [emphasis]

[Gary Lewis]

Yeahbut, I have a left-handed friend who had a sign on his desk that said "If the right side of the brain controls the left side of the body, then only left-handed people are in their right minds."

Therefore, only right-handed people would do what I'm doing?  

[Ford F834]

Or the adage that in the left side of my brain nothing is right, and in the right side of my brain there is nothing left 🤪

[1986F150Six]

[Steve83]

Gary Lewis wrote

...the ring gear measures from .360" to .460" from the mounting face.  I just hope that's within tolerance.

Remember that it's a FLEXIBLE PLATE...   Until it's bolted to the crank hub AND to the torque converter in a transmission, it can be wonky as hell, and still work perfectly.  If you're going to check its axial runout, you have to wait until the bellhousing is bolted up & the TC nuts are tight.

Gary Lewis wrote

"...When converter is properly seated into the trans the TC center hub will be ¼" below the matting surface as measured off the bell housing face via a straight edge for reference."

This is from the SM:

Ford Service Manual wrote

40. Align holes and install new pump gasket into case.
 
41. Install input shaft (long splined end first) and thread Aligning Pin T89T-70010-B into case.
 
42. Using petroleum jelly to hold in place, make sure that thrust washer 7D014 (1) and needle bearing assembly 7E486 (2A) are in place before installing pump.
 
43. Install the pump into the case. Orient the filter inlet tube bore toward the 6 o'clock position. Fully seat the pump using hand pressure only.
CAUTION:Do not use bolts to draw pump into the case.
 
44. Remove old rubber coated washers from the nine pump-to-case bolts. Install nine new pump bolt washers (7G379). Remove Aligning Pin T89T-70010-B. Install nine pump bolts (10mm socket). Tighten to 24-31 N-m (18-23 ft-lb) alternating bolts. Remove input shaft.
CAUTION:Remove input shaft prior to rotating transmission.
NOTE: Tighten pump bolts alternately to avoid possible damage.

Gary Lewis wrote

What am I missing?

Remember that you have to turn the crank somehow to install the TC nuts, so be prepared to pull the spark plugs & either prybar the ring gear, or wrench the HB bolt.

Ford F834 wrote

...provided the rear of the block is in the same place as a 460...

AFAIK, the rear face of the block is always at the same location in the chassis, for all engine/trans combos.

Ford F834 wrote

Maybe the E4OD trucks had more or different holes drilled.

Some (that I've never seen IRL) attached to both frame webs:



But AFAIK, all frames after '88MY are drilled to accept these 3 crossmembers:



That means 2 sets of holes on the driver's rail, and 3 (including the E4OD web holes) on the passenger's.

85lebaront2 wrote

I am pretty sure F150s got the E4OD as did Broncos, it was used on the 300 and 351 applications as the AOD/AODE/4R70W wasn't considered strong enough for the torque of those engines. This would most likely have been aero nose models (1992-96), although possibly some late brick nose models could have had it, particularly 4WD models.

Regardless of 4WD; the E4OD came out in the '89MY and was used in all fullsize Ford light trucks through '96/7, as the TSB near the middle of this caption explains:



I vaguely believe I've encountered a (VERY) few factory 5.0L E4ODs.

[Gary Lewis]

Very good info.  Thanks, Steve.  

On the flexi plate, I'd hoped that's right, but the others I have don't have the runout when not installed.  Maybe because they have been installed?

On the rear face of the engine, if all C6's are the same length then the rear faces must be at the same place because they all use the same crossmember.  But I don't know if a 460's C6 is the same length as an M-Block's C6.  I know the crank faces are in different positions relative to the rear face of the block.  So does that make the integrated bell housing different?  Anyway, I that will take some thinking about.  Perhaps people can measure some transmissions?

The illustration of installing the torque converter is a big help.  And the description of how to install the input shaft, long splined end first, certainly answers that question.

Last, the illustrations of the crossmembers helps as well.  Not only do they show how it mounts, but they show the nut/bolt direction and torque values.  I like installing things the right way.  (Did you know that the nuts/bolts that tighten the adjusting sleeves on the tie rods are supposed to be installed one way on the left side and the other way on the right?)

Thanks again.

[Gary Lewis]

Got a lot of cleaning and re-organizing done in the shop today, including taking 5 tires and wheels, an intake manifold and a couple exhaust manifolds, and lots other things to the attic.  

And then I got to weld a bit as one of the handles on the shop crane had separated from the nut.  It won't come off now.  

Then I decided I needed to try the shop crane out, and this happened:




Tomorrow is more cleaning and then wrapping up a few loose ends, like torquing the flexplate and transmission mount bolts, figuring out how to get the tranny off the engine stand when the two sets of legs want to occupy the same space, etc.

I hope Monday evening I'll be singing:

Monday, Monday, so good to me
Monday mornin´, it was all I hoped it would be!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Congratulations Gary
Hope everything is two steps forward from here.

Progress is good!  

[Gary Lewis]

Yes sir, progress is good!

[Steve83]

Gary Lewis wrote

Did you know that the nuts/bolts that tighten the adjusting sleeves on the tie rods are supposed to be installed one way on the left side and the other way on the right?

Yes, and I recommend NOT doing it that way.  I've tried for years to think of why Ford might specify that, with no good guess or any documentation to explain their reasoning.  But I've encountered one moderately-good (although exceptionally-rare) reason NOT to:

[Gary Lewis]

Ouch! That's a seriously-bent tie rod! Don't think I've ever seen one bent like that.