Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Then I must be a dunce by now.  This is my third game today.  

But it was yesterday that I thought the parts didn't fit.  So if I've lowered my mental capacity from that.....  

[salans7]

I was under the assumption that Gary already knew there should only be one way that a plate will fit the flywheel, and that he had already spun the thing all around and every which way before he came to his conclusion. Next time I will assume differently.

All jokes aside, I'm glad you got it sorted. Where are the pictures? Why don't we have a "Moar Pics" or "Need Pics" smiley?

[Gary Lewis]

Gary shouldn't be allowed out w/o a supervisor.  

However, this flywheel looks like it came from an Erector set with all the holes.  I think you could bolt on a Honda clutch.

As for an emoji/smiley, point me to one.  


But, if you want pics then I can get them this afternoon - after and before church.  

[salans7]

Gary Lewis wrote

But, if you want pics then I can get them this afternoon - after and before church.

You said the following:

Gary Lewis wrote

I now have bolts in the holes to prove it.

But you didn't give us any pics to prove it?

[Gary Lewis]

Shaun - Do you read lips?  

I only have 6 bolts in as that's all that was on Big Blue's previous clutch plate.  But this one takes 8 so I'll take a trip to the parts store soon.  Anyway, here's a before/after shot:

[85lebaront2]

Gee, it looks like it's drilled for all possible clutches used on a 460, and it it is made in a 0 balance and unbalanced version, probably a 429 CJ and SCJ too.

[ArdWrknTrk]

....

I don't see any pre '79 flywheels listed?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, Bill.  It has lotsa holes.  Probably would take the old clutch plate awa the new one, and several others.

Jim - Listed where?  LuK's catalog doesn't list anything earlier than '88 if that's what you mean.

[85lebaront2]

Not for a 460 but then maybe they don't think there is enough of a market for the pre-79 429/460 flywheel.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's exactly what I mean.
Nothing for the C8 crank, and nothing for the smaller input shaft of the T-19.
I don't know enough about the medium duty 429's & 370's to say if they are external balance or have clearanced cases to run the bigger porkchops.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok guys, I have a question that I'd like your help on.  And that's the timing on doing things on Big Blue.  The specific question is when, in the overall scheme of things, to start it up to break in the cam.

I'm going to borrow a carb adapter for the lower plenum and start the engine up using the original fuel system.  That way I know the system is going to work and I won't have a glitch in the middle of the break-in run.

But, do I do that before or after wiring up the EFI system?

I think I should wire up the EFI system, maybe with the exception of the fuel pump wiring, before doing the break-in.  That's because it will be much easier to do the wiring w/o the radiator, radiator support, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump, etc installed.

In fact, as I think about it maybe I need to do the more serious wiring before even installing the engine as I'll be able to walk into the engine compartment.

But you'll probably be asking what wiring needs to be done, so let me think about that a bit.  It will include:

Adding the power distribution center to the driver's side fender, running the many wires to/fro it for EFI, and then removing the fusible links and running their power feed to the PDC.

Adding the 3G wiring

Eliminating the starter solenoid/relay on the fender and running the wire to the PDC

Hmmmm, I'm thinking the best approach is to do the bulk of that before installing the engine.    Thoughts?

[Gary Lewis]

Apparently I stumped the chumps?  

Anyway, today I installed the engine mount plates and the mounts, which leads to the next question: How do the engine mounts/isolators go on?

Judging by the paint on this one, which suggests it was painted while on the vehicle, the rounded part goes up, as shown.  I say that because that "exclamation mark" of black paint above the lower stud looks like it was painted through the slots on the perches.  Do I have it on correctly?





Another thing I did today was to helicoil the alternator.  Went easily - maybe too easily.  The instructions say to drill the part 25/64" (.3906") but the hole was already slightly larger, but not as large as 13/32".  I'm guessing that it was 10 mm, which is .3937".  But the threads looked pretty good, and the helicoil threaded in with some effort.  And, I used red Loctite on it so I don't think it'll let go.

And, thinking of that, here's a shot of the parts I'd PC'd a day or so ago.  Bill, what kind of bolt is that in the center bottom?  




Another thing I did today was to get the 5/16-16 G8 bolts for the clutch plate.  Plus, I painted this thing.  And with that I think the engine is just about done.

[Frank Wyatt]

I agree with you Gary. Without the engine in the way, you will have much more room to do all the necessary wiring upgrades you have planned to do. That will make it easier to do and will result in a much neater and professional looking finished wiring harness once complete. From reading your posts I feel that your goal on the wiring is for it to have the appearance of being factory original with everything you are adding to the truck along with the added features and functionality. Jerry rigged wiring would not only be possibly hazardous but would detract from the appearance of that jewel that you are installing in that engine bay.

[swampedout]

Gary,
I dont know how you keep up with this project and the forum at the same time.
If you have a good picture in mind of the engine bay layout, you might as well run wire first. The thing that would concern me is the custom alterations but it seems like you got it figured out. And of course figuring out how to keep the wire out of the way when you drop the engine in.
Are you running the harness fully wrapped or bare wire then wrapping once everything is in place?

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, guys.  I think running the wires first with the engine out is the best way to do it.  In fact, it may be better with the front axle off, and since it is off I may leave it off for the electrical phase of this.

And you are right, the goal is that it look "factory".  In fact, I'm going to tell my offspring that it is a 1996 California truck under the hood, which would have sequential fuel injection (SEFI) and a mass airflow sensor (MAF) as opposed to a 50-State truck with bank-fire and speed density.

In order to line things up on the driver's fender I've kept that fender from Huck, which was a 1990 truck.  I believe the air filter box was in the same spot, so I can use it to lay out where the air filter box, PDC, and cruise control go.  And that will let me determine where the auxiliary battery can go.  Once those things are located I can start figuring out where the ECU will go and what I'll have to do to its wiring.

Speaking of wiring, I think there are two phases to the wiring:

1. Running the wires for the EFI system, which will be just like in the '96 layout

2. Integrating the '85 power feeds into the PDC.

It is going to take a fair bit of laying things out to make this happen, but I will document it thoroughly.  

[85lebaront2]

Here's my new ones installed on Darth's new engine:

One I took for you when you were looking for the dimensions on the 460. As you can see, curved portion goes up as you have them.

[Gary Lewis]

Yippee!  I did it correctly!  Thanks, Bill.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, you just run the Helicoil tap into the hole, no drilling required.

5/16- 16 seems a weird pitch.

[Gary Lewis]

It is a weird pitch.  Hard to find the right bolts.  Finally decided I'd use 5/16-18's and not turn them quite as far.  

[Gary Lewis]

Today I ticked the box in the To-Do list that says the engine is DONE!  

Now it is time to turn to the electrical system.  But I think I'll take a break for a bit.