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A roll of those little Velcro cable wraps we use in server rooms and underfloor will be your best friend when dealing with that spaghetti monster.
They're cheap on Amazon
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Good idea! I know what you are talking about, and it will be a spaghetti monster.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Get this wire loom Tesa tape while you're at it.
https://www.amazon.com/Boxiti-Highest-Quality-Compartment-Harness/dp/B07H4SMBRP/ref=sr_1_10?gclid=CjwKCAiAob3vBRAUEiwAIbs5Tod-_C_6WbpZ1RGhCSRescZ4Q_Sk0tu7BERun5tTVzgXME8nRF_i_BoC-AYQAvD_BwE&hvadid=237352550808&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9003439&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6101849506548479981&hvtargid=kwd-301152687531&hydadcr=22728_9776638&keywords=tesa+wire+loom+tape&qid=1576026694&sr=8-10 It really makes a difference!
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Do you use that instead of plastic loom? Didn’t we have a how-to on doing wire harnii recently?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I use convolute on some runs, braided sleeve is good too, where you don't need protection from the elements.
But this is especially good for junctions and wrapping sections (candycane like) inside the plastic sleeve, if that's what you choose to do. It gives 'body' to the harness, resists most fouling and heat, and allows you to lay it into corners and around obstructions as you like. I don't recall the discussion, but it would make a great topic in the Tips & Tricks section. ![]() Everyone has their own ways of doing things. I'd imagine Scatch has a lot of experience. But I doubt we all need to worry about our project falling out of the sky.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Ford used (uses) ALOT of that wire loom tape in the dash wiring. I've fought my fair share of it, and it's a nightmare to remove, which means it's great stuff. Not so great if you're reusing wiring because it leaves a sticky residue.
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Their (Tesa's) interior tape has a fuzzy surface and doesn't handle anything like the engine compartment tape I linked.
It's great stuff for inside the cab, but not for exposure to the elements.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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When I went by Horrid Fate today to check out their ball joint press ($59.99 down from $89.99)
I see they have their single tank Fortress compressor on sale for ~$150. 😖 I hate that.99, whether at the gas pump or in this store of perpetual "SALE"s! Anyway, tank is 6"dia x 16"l. ![]() ![]() ![]() This is very similar to the California Air compressor, and available locally, with a generous return policy. 2.1 SCFM @90 IS 4.2 @ 45, and that's really all you need, to air up.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Jim - Thanks! That thing sure looks like a clone of the California Air one. And, like the CA, it appears to be modular so I can take it apart and use the pieces.
The only possible downside is that we don't know if this one has been run on an inverter like your CA one has. Surely it'll work? The spec's in the owner's manual say it pulls 7 amps when running, which is only 840 watts. And, while I fully agree with you that 4.2 CFM is adequate, how did you figure that 2.1 SCFM @90 IS 4.2 @ 45? I'm not questioning the results, just trying to figure out how to do that? Is there an equation?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Ummm, gas law says if you halve the volume you have twice the pressure, so the inverse would have to be true..
"Air" is obviously a complex blend of gases and moisture (you can compress vapor -steam- but you can't compress water)
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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I guess I forgot that N=PV/RT.
![]() That was, quite literally, 60 years ago.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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This post was updated on .
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
That compressor is $20 off, with the coupon right now.
I think you could pay online and pickup in store. I suppose a few keystrokes is worth $20 At least it would pay *for your trip to T-town.....
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Was that just the $20 off anything coupon, or specific to that compressor? On line it still shows full price of $169.99.
And, btw, on line it says "Compare to California Air Tools CAT-2010A at $189.00. Save $19.01." They had the CA compressor in their sights.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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It is specific to the compressor.
I don't think my 25% off coupon applies to online orders (they're trying to get you into the store, after all) Let me see. I may forward you the email. That might be easiest.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary, just a heads up. I see in your build sheet that you replaced a huck bolt with a grade 5 bolt. Those huck bolts are made of spring steel and have lost their tenshion, much like a spring will loose it's arch after loading and unloading over the years.
You may want to replace that Gr5 bolt with a 5/8 frame bolt. That Gr5 bolt wont last long in the frame because it will streach and brake in no time at all. Just a thought.
Steve
86 Bronco, XLT, 5.0 EFI, EEC IV, AOD, IFS, limited slip front and rear, 3.08 gears, Tilt steering, factory AC |
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Steve - I'm not sure where you saw that I used a G5, but I actually used a G8 bolt. So maybe I need to change my documentation? Please tell me where.
I did this following TSB 97-03-10 which says: ON HEAVY DUTY VEHICLES, IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO UPGRADE THE REPLACEMENT FASTENER TO A 5/8″ GRADE 8 TORQUE PREVAILING NUT (34991-S2), BOLT (58720-S100) AND TWO (2) WASHERS (44881-S2) TORQUED TO 250 ±6.8 N•m (185 ±5 LB-FT).So, since I consider Big Blue to be heavy duty I did just that instead of going with the 9/16" G8 bolt, nut, and washers. But what is a "frame bolt"?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Been thinking about this and just looked at the California Air Tools 2010A specs, which are 3.10 CFM @ 40 PSI & 2.20 CFM @ 90 PSI. And I remember lots of other compressors I've looked at over time didn't have neatly proportional spec's, meaning that CFM x PSI didn't equal the same constant. I've looked a bit on why this is but haven't found anything.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Administrator
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I think what you're finding is that the pump has different efficiency when pumping free air than it does against a head.
The air in the tank is going to behave as it would in absolute terms. Look how an engine (which is just a self driven air pump) has an optimal rpm depending on valve timing, compression and a host of variables, like air density and back pressure.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Administrator
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Yep, I agree. Saying it another way, the air in the tank behaves according the gas law, but the pump's efficiency is something that has to be measured rather than calculated for us mortal men.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Administrator
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Given the tiny size of the port behind the inlet muffler, I'm going to suggest that's limiting volume at atmospheric pressure
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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