Big Blue's Transformation

[1986F150Six]

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, I think I got lucky.  That unit lists for $220 on-line.

Blessed!

[Gary Lewis]

David - Yes, "blessed" is the best answer.  I certainly am.

Dane - It makes less noise than Janey's little Cambell Hausfeld that she uses to clean her quilting machine. That one isn't fun to be around.  I'm hoping that installing this one in the tool box will reduce the noise even further, but it isn't objectionable.

Jim - It isn't the pressure switch that's misplaced, but the on/off switch.  There's a little rocker switch, the red one in the pic on the left, and it won't be accessible in the installation I have planned.  So I'm thinking about placing another one where the sticker is depicting the switch (middle top in the pic on the right).

Having said that, there is a Plan B.  I'd been planning to use the remote function of the inverter and put a switch on the dash above the radio to turn the inverter on with.  But, the max no-load input current is only 1.2A, so I'm thinking I'll just bring the inverter on each time the key is in Acc or Run, and use a switch on the dash to turn the compressor on with.  And, to simplify wiring, I'll make up a short pigtail into a box with a relay and an outlet, and plug that into the inverter and plug the compressor into the box.  That way the wiring will be short and no mod's need to be made to the compressor's wiring.

Thoughts?

[Nothing Special]

Gary Lewis wrote

....  Thoughts?

I have a switch on the air compressor on my Bronco so I can turn it on from the driver's seat.  That's kind of essential in my application.  When I'm towing my Bronco I don't want the air compressor cycling when I'm stopped for dinner, or for the night.  Plus my "toad" brakes use electricity that I don't want drawn when the tow rig is shut down for a while.  So I want to easily be able to shut off both, and popping the hood to get at the compressor isn't "easily".  So I have switches for both that I can get at either from the driver's seat or from standing outside the driver's door.

Plus with my meager air flow I like to be able to turn on my compressor a little while before I plan to air up my tires.  That way I can be starting with a full air tank which takes about 5 minutes off my air-up time.

Since you won't be towing Big Blue and since your air-up time will be shorter you will probably weight those factors more lightly than I do.  But still, it would be nice to not have to have it on all the time but still be able to turn it on a few minutes before you plan to air up.

However, if your tool box is sealed so you need to open it up before running the compressor, then it might be better to only be able to turn it on when the tool box is open.  In other words, keep the switch in the tool box.


By the way, although you seem to have settled on the bigger, better, louder compressor, there is another argument for quieter, but again it's one that you will weight lower than I do.  I use air pressure to actuate my OX locker, so I need my air compressor on several minutes before I need to use my front locker.  That kind of planning is too hard to do effectively, so I pretty much just leave the compressor on any time I'm 'wheeling where I might need the locker.  Mine is pretty quiet (I can't hear it come on if I'm driving on the highway) so it's not too obnoxious.  But it would be bad if it was very loud.

I know your current (and probably forever) plan is electric actuation for your front OX.  And your rear Truetrac doesn't have any need for air pressure.  So like I said, you should weight that lower than I do.  But it's a thought.


As to having the inverter come on with the key, I think I'd put a separate switch on it.  But I don't have any strong reason for that, so I certainly won't try to change your mind.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Sorry, I misunderstood.

If the pump is to be bolted to the box I'd probably give it a long enough, grommeted, cable (SOOW, J?) that it could be plugged into the inverter.

Or, as you want, a switch on the dash that closes a relay -in the cab- and gets that plugged in.

Making the outlet available, if need be.

But me.... I would put the switch on the pump.
Less stuff to go wrong. (Occam's razor, and all that)

With the tank welded to the frame I would likely cut the tube close to the weld on one side and fold it out flat (creating a tab) if it's going to work with your mounting position.
Otherwise, I'd probably make a saddle mount and use a rubber covered band/hose clamp to secure it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

"Out For Delivery" is always a good thing to see!  😉

[Gary Lewis]

Bob - Thanks.  Good thoughts.

I agree that it would be good to turn the compressor on before hitting the end of the trail so the airing-up process starts with 200 psi in the tank.  But I don't think that the compressor will overheat in the large aluminum toolbox in the 90 seconds or so it takes to pump up from 0 to 200.  In fact, it won't take that long as the tank should already be close to 200 from the previous exercise.  But, once I get to the end of the trail I'll pop the lid of the tool box to get the hose and get to the connections and it'll have plenty of air.

And, yes, my "forever" plan is to use the electric system on the OX locker, so I won't need air for that.  But, if I did I don't think this will run often enough or be loud enough to cause a problem.  It sat overnight at ~200 psi, so it doesn't seem to leak, and I'm pretty good at making tight joints when I re-plumb it.  So it should have air 'most any time.

Oh, and another use I'd not mentioned - air bags.  I do intend to remove some rear springs and add air bags & Daystar cradles to the rear to help the ride and articulation, but having on-board air will be a big help in leveling up.

[Gary Lewis]

If Occam's razor strikes I can unplug from the relay box and replug the compressor directly into the inverter.    And yes, the cable from the pump to the inverter will be well grommeted.  But it might be #14 SJOW as that's what's on it and I think it'll be long enough.

On the tank and tubing, I like the idea of flattening the tubing to make a tab.  I think the first thing to do once the compressor is out of the frame is to see if there's a chance that the part of the frame attached to the tank can be used to hold the tank.  I'll measure, three times, and then cut off what obviously won't fit.  Then I can flatten it where needed to bolt it to the truck.  But a saddle mount hung from the bed stiffeners isn't a bad idea.

Speaking of rubber, the compressor bolts to the bracket with 4 bolts.  So I'll be looking for some isolators to prevent the compressor from using the tool box as a sounding board.

And yes, it does show "On FedEx vehicle for delivery".  (And for those who don't know, I'm getting a 3000 watt running, 6000 watt starting inverter from Jim, and it is due to be delivered today.  

Speaking of that, can someone measure the area behind the seat on a regular cab truck?  I don't have seats in either of my trucks and it is a big pain to put them in at the moment.  But I'm hoping to stand the inverter up behind the seat to provide easy access to the AC outlets for chargers, et al.  Its dimensions are 11 x 9 x 6.25 in (L x W x H), so I need a bit more than 6" up at least 9".

[1986F150Six]

Gary Lewis wrote

We just got home and as I unloaded it I discovered that it is NOT the 1.2 HP unit.  Instead, it is its big brother that is rated at 1.5 HP and it puts out 4.0 CFM @ 90 PSI into a 4 gallon tank and generates 80 dba of noise.  Plus, it has a max PSI of 200.  I'm not sure whether to be elated or disappointed.  

One downside, other than the noise, is that the tubing that serves as the frame is welded to the tank as opposed to the tank having tabs and being bolted to the tubing on the smaller compressor.  Yes, I can cut the tubing off pretty easily, but it isn't quite as elegant.  On the other hand, there's no warranty to worry about.

Gary, you could insulate the tool box with the same material [Dynamat?] used to quieten doors and cabs.

[85lebaront2]

Gary, I can measure the back seat to cab back in Darth as it is the same complete to the seat adjuster as a standard cab. What do you need minimum with the seat all the way back?

Ask and ye shall receive, 9" up (easy reference, that's the height of my CD changer) there is exactly 6" with the seat all the way back (that's where mine stays). Crew cab back wall is a standard cab back wall and the original front and rear seats are identical in a crew cab.

[Gary Lewis]

David - Good idea!

Bill - Thanks!  The dimensions are (L x W x H) 11 x 9 x 6.25 in and I'd hope to lay it on its side.  So I need 6 1/4" up 9".  But, the regular cab has a step at the back that raises whatever is behind the seat up a couple of inches or so.  Does the crew cab have that step?

[85lebaront2]

Yes, it is exactly the same, even to the bolt locations. I measured at the top of my CD changer, there is possibly a little over 6" as the corner trim is in the way and I do not have an 8" tall dwarf to slide back behind the seat to measure for me.

[85lebaront2]

A thought for you, the compressor is going to be a permanent install in one side of the tool box correct? How about a small vent grille in the bottom and a large computer fan to exhaust air next to it, they are 12V and could be wired with the inverter input. Also, what about just having a bulkhead style air line connector through the toolbox wall some where so the hose can be connected without needing to open anything.

[Gary Lewis]

How tall to the top of your CD changer, Bill?

And another option is to put the inverter flat on the floor under the seat.  The instructions for it say NOT to do that, but I think they are expecting a late model vehicle with no room under the seat.  However, our trucks have gobs of space, so if the exhaust was at the back edge of the seat, maybe using a little tunnel to ensure it always is, then it wouldn't be ingesting its own exhaust.  Yes?

As for the fan, I'll not have 12v at the compressor, but don't they make 110v muffin fans?  However, that means more floor space dedicated to it.  And I kinda a like having everything protected by a locking lid.  Have to put the hose somewhere, so have to get in the tool box anyway.

[85lebaront2]

Sorry forgot that critical piece of information. 9" so that was why I measured there.

[Nothing Special]

Gary Lewis wrote

....  I don't think that the compressor will overheat in the large aluminum toolbox in the 90 seconds or so it takes to pump up from 0 to 200.  In fact, it won't take that long as the tank should already be close to 200 from the previous exercise.  But, once I get to the end of the trail I'll pop the lid of the tool box to get the hose and get to the connections and it'll have plenty of air.

Keep in mind what air pumps do is pump air.  If your inlet is inside the tool box you not only need to think about cooling (which might not be an issue), but you don't want to be pulling a vacuum in the box either.  I don't know how well sealed it is, so maybe it's not an issue at all, but worth considering.

Gary Lewis wrote

And, yes, my "forever" plan is to use the electric system on the OX locker, so I won't need air for that.  But, if I did I don't think this will run often enough or be loud enough to cause a problem.  It sat overnight at ~200 psi, so it doesn't seem to leak, and I'm pretty good at making tight joints when I re-plumb it.  So it should have air 'most any time.

I thought I did a pretty good job of sealing up my system too.  It probably comes on about every half hour or so.  For what that's worth.

Gary Lewis wrote

Oh, and another use I'd not mentioned - air bags.  I do intend to remove some rear springs and add air bags & Daystar cradles to the rear to help the ride and articulation, but having on-board air will be a big help in leveling up.

Definitely nice for that!  I had air bags on my '95 F-150.  At that time I had my '75 Jeep CJ5 (pre-Bronco).  I had a small Viair compressor that was usually mounted on the F-150 that I would move to the Jeep when I was going to tow it.  It was very nice being able to pump up the bags when I was at Home Depot loading up bags of QwikCrete!

[ArdWrknTrk]

I suppose having the inverter on its side with the outlets facing the passenger door would make sense.

I kind of envisioned it with the outlets, USB and remote on top.
But it's not my install...

[Gary Lewis]

 Bob - The intake is a neat little filter that can be removed with a twist and cleaned. And it threads into the pump. When the time comes I’ll look into sticking it through the box wall on the right side ahead of the wheel well where it will be below the wings of the box and therefore protected.

As for air bags, having on-board air will be a real blessing. Will have to decide if I want to run separate air lines or merge them. Thoughts?

Jim - The instructions say not to point the fan intake or discharge up. So on its side would work. But I’m leaning to placing it under the seat with ducting to ensure the heat isn’t trapped under the seat and just loop. Looks like the DC cables connect on one end and the AC and USB, awa the switch and LED’s are on the other. I’d point the latter to the back to allow access to the AC outlets. And the ducting on the front would double as protection for the DC cables.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think I'd find under the seat a pita.
I want to fold the seat and plug in.

Of course mine is facing up, but same-same.
Digging around is NOT in my playbook.

[Gary Lewis]

I can’t imagine why the instructions say not to point it up. The fan comes on at a given temp, so why not use the heat before that to cause airflow to start?  

Anyway, I can’t do that as it is too long. But I could put it on its side with the outlets toward the passenger’s side. That way we could lean the seat forward and see the outlets.

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - Thanks for the measurement.  It looks like it should work on its side behind the seat.

Jim - It's here!  And w/o damage.  You did a good job packaging.  But, I wasn't envisioning 6" right, and I don't think it would go under the seat.  So, on its side appears to be the way to do it - assuming that works.  I'll have to check that out when it comes time to mount it.

But tomorrow I hope to make a couple of cables and hook it to the battery, plug the compressor in, and let 'er rip!  Then, once I know it'll play nicely together I'll put this stuff back until I get to that phase of the project.  (Get it?  Phase.  AC?  )