1982 Bronco XLT

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you got it apart.  Bummer on the cap and needles, but it sure won't hurt to have a new u-joint in there.  

[Weberman]

Has anyone run the Moog 265s(greaseable)? Rockauto says its a fit but I've seen a couple reviews on Amazon that say they don't fit right and one even says an 88 Bronco

[ArdWrknTrk]

Look up the application on Moog's page.
I'm fine with Moot greaseable U-joints.... I just need to stay on top of them.

DO NOT trust ANY Amazon reviews.
You have paid shills.
You have sellers trying too undermine competition.
You have Amazon aggregating reviews (combining very different items)
You have idiots who either bought the wrong part, or have no business trying to install it, throwing a tantrum (usually because Amazon won't accept a damaged item for return)
And you have Amazon shipping items that were returned (either in the wrong package, or after attempted installation)
</rant>

But my driveline is very different than yours.
I can't say which u-joint works for you.

[Weberman]

Got the other transfer case in. Those top bolts weren't the greatest to get to, but its done. Overall wasn't too bad. I realize how long literally 'turning wrenches' actually takes now. It's been awhile since I've done a job without the electric ratchet or even a ratcheting wrench. The only problem was that the holes in the trans tail were just a little too small. The bolts wouldn't just push through, some would "thread" in the holes, others simple wouldn't. Just took a drill bit real quick and went around the hole real fast and thats all it took.


The old transfer case definitely has something wrong with it. The new one I can turn very easy by hand on the input shaft. The old one takes both hands on each yoke and at first I couldn't even do a full revolution. After clanking it back and forth who knows how many times, it actually spun in one direction. I was able to drop down to one hand to turn it but it was still very hard.

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you got it swapped out.  And on those bolts there are few ratcheting wrenches that will get in there, so it takes a while.

I'm guessing that the holes had gasket material in them.  So cleaning them up would have been needed, like you did.

Yes, it appears that the old t-case needs rebuilt. Glad you found another one to replace it.

[Weberman]

So all I did the other night was get it in and bolted up. I got a u joint today for the front and it wasn't coming out so I just sprayed some penetrant on it and was going to hook up the rear driveshaft. The bolts don't line up on it at all, a good ways away if I line up one side if it should. Are there different yokes to swap out or is that even possible?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, there are different output yokes.  And unfortunately it isn't easy to figure out the part number you need.  And even then finding one might not be straight forward.

However, a 4wd shop will know.  I worked with one locally that knew immediately which one I needed based on my u-joint's dimensions.

However, as Jim said recently, there are u-joints that have one axis bigger than the other.  We have u-joint sizes listed on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Driveshafts.  You can measure your u-joint and determine the size from that page.  But I will confess that I find that page very confusing.

So maybe the best thing to do is to measure your u-joints.  And measure the yoke you have to see what u-joint size it needs.  Then go to Transamerican Wholesale's page and see if they have a crossover u-joint that will do the trick.  Or Jegs.  Or any of several others.

[FuzzFace2]

For my 70 Javelin when I installed the T5 5sp transmission I had to use a adaptor Ujoint and with sizes in hand hit up the local NAPA.
Beside the sizes you will also need to know if the clips are inside (C type fits on the cap) or outside (funny type clip fits in the drive shaft slot on top of the cap)
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ford was notorious for combination (or bastard) universal joints.
But usually they just have different size caps, it's not like the spreads were radically different.

Try the Neapco catalog.

[Weberman]

I would think it would be that easy, but since I have the fixed yoke, is that possible? I guess it would be in the front, but the rear has that double joint that I don't think the cross comes out. From what I could tell, that cross was built into it, it could be dirty and I can move the outer ones but as far as I could tell, that joint was built in and if I took that off the driveshaft would be too short.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The double cardan goes to the transfer case in a Bronco, and the universals are indeed replaceable.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If you have the clips out and can't budge it with a hammer and socket in a bench vise you might try a ball joint press.

It's recommended to use a hydraulic press, but not all of us have one.

[ArdWrknTrk]

My friend Bills Bronco uses a 1310-1330 bastard U-joint. #434
(I just looked up my purchase history)

It has inside c-clips on two cups and snap rings on the other two.

I think it takes a #354 on the other end.

At least they are both on the same sales ticket, and I remember it being a pita to press that joint out.

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

The double cardan goes to the transfer case in a Bronco, and the universals are indeed replaceable.

I was going to say I have never seen that joint any place other than at the transmission or transfer case.

Maybe that is the problem, putting the drive shaft in backwards
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

I notice that JBG has a kit with all three joints and that funky ball and socket, but they don't have the rubber dust boot...

THAT number is 2-86-418

But I think it's only Spicer and Neapco that have it.

[Gary Lewis]

How about showing us some pics?

[Weberman]

Yeah I'm sure the using the word cross was not the best. I knew that they u joint were replaceable in those. But these photos will show what I'm talking about. The front uses straps, so I'm sure that will be easy as obviously the can just be moved wherever. The back uses this solid piece, so when I tried to bolt it up, it was no where close when I aligned one side with the transfer case.



I now know it is the driveshaft centering yoke that I'm talking about. It's a solid piece behind it that bolts up to the case. It looks like apparently you can take it out. I couldn't see anything since it would be behind the joint. So maybe I could somehow find that.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Remember, when you put all the pieces back together they have to be in exact same orientation as they came apart.
So be sure to mark everything with a silver sharpie, or some other inedible marker.

Are you sure you have the correct universal, installed correctly???

I understand how it goes together.
I'm just having a hard time following you.

[Weberman]

I'll have to take a picture when I get home. The only u joint I've touched is the front one since it came apart on me. The rear just unbolted from the case and that's where it's stayed, haven't touched it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm just saying these things are balanced as a unit.
So you really need to keep them in phase.