1982 Bronco XLT

[Weberman]

Looks like I have possibly got the vacuum down. I put that metal piece in and with some adjustments, I have good vacuum at idle. Now the other thing. It will idle good and the gauge will drop randomly like 5" and go back up. Very random. Could be steady for 20 seconds and then dips, could be a couple seconds between them. There's a slight metallic tap coming from the drivers side.

[Gary Lewis]

Is the tap regular?  Or does it coincide with the vacuum drop?

If it is regular it is probably a lifter or it could be an exhaust leak as they sound very similar.

On the vacuum, try moving vacuum hoses while the engine is running and monitor the vacuum.  See if some movement causes it to drop, which could indicate a cracked hose.  If not, open up the idle mix screws ~1/8 - 1/4 turn and see if the vacuum drop changes.

[Weberman]

Tap comes and goes randomly like the gauge does. Bronco has true duals before the rear tire(that's good have to change when its road worthy because whew, don't know how the previous owner did it) but its on the driver's side. I revved it up a bit and held it and it sounded shakey and then smoothed out like it should.

I'm just thinking maybe valve? I know I noticed a ticking before that rocker fell off so maybe the other side? That was a bit more consistent. I should have gone through the drivers side when that happened but I'm pretty sure I only did the passenger since I had that head off.

[ArdWrknTrk]

A sticky intake valve or lifter could cause fluctuations in manifold vacuum.

If you have a gasket it might be worth pulling the DS valve cover and checking for pushrod slop while making two complete revolutions of the crank.

[Weberman]

Just for giggles, went through them all before actually checking them. Most turned a decent bit before reaching torque. I backed them off and then did it properly. Seems to have made a difference. It sounds and revs better I think. The tapping is there still, continuous, but the vacuum dipped like it did a couple times and then never did again. Checked the oil and its little above and smells like fuel pretty good. I drove it around the yard a bit and couldn't tell too much as it was wet and I was spinning. Doesn't like going into gears. It wants to die and stumbles when given gas, but if you get it right in between it'll catch itself and then be perfect.

[Gary Lewis]

Sounds like you need a new fuel pump.  And and change of oil.  Then drive it and see how the vacuum is.  The gas in the oil may have thinned it enough to cause a lifter to collapse every once in a while, and good oil may cure that.

[Weberman]

Yeah I'm gonna grab some oil and fuel. Tank is low too at the moment so I'm gonna fill it up and see if it does anything on that part.

I know the springs need to be changed out. I have too weak of ones in there for what it idles at. I'll swap those out today and see.

I thought that the door panels could interchange through the years but I guess it was the outer skin that was the same. Tried to swap and it just doesn't fit right. Still have the perfect dash in it and other parts too so still a deal for the other truck

[Gary Lewis]

The door panels swap from 980 through early 1981, and late 1981 to 1986.  The 1980 and early '81 trucks had slide locks where the late '81 through '86 trucks had pin locks.

[Weberman]

Yeah someone swapped doors and bed it seems from a 87-91. The holes for the pins are slightly off and the handle is pretty well touching the panel with no room for the hand to open it.

I found another truck that had a factory tach and nice gray interior but the dash was cracked so I passed it up. I'll get a tach one of these days.

[Weberman]

Changed oil, good amount of fuel in there. Got it replaced and still a tap, may be a bit less. Put the different springs in and it seems better. I could actually idle in gear. Wasn't a hesitation anymore. I'll have to do some more testing to see. Was wet in the yard so I'll have to see when its dry or on the road.

[Weberman]

Even though like I said they don't fit right, I'll add the pics anyways. Not that it gets driven at the moment but might just rock them so I can have a matching set of door panels that look nice and not busted. Gotta have some kind of progress even if it isn't the best it could be.

Don't mind the ladder. I really need to get something else but I stand it up on its side and lean it against the tire to be able to work on the motor.

[Gary Lewis]

The Bricknose panel doesn't look that bad.  Which ones are you going to run?

[Weberman]

End goal is to find something that matches the other dash. Its black, assuming there's no dark gray. Probably drop back to what's supposed to be in there, from a bull nose.

Those could maybe be until then. The biggest thing which I think you can see is the bottom of the handle touches the panel like I said. Sure beats faded red and a faded busted blue one.

[Gary Lewis]

The handle doesn't look like a show-stopper.  But you could paint the Bullnose panels.

[Weberman]

I probably would have if that blue one wasn't missing the top, you can barely see it  in the photo. I think the junkyard got another bullnose in so I could go check it. Sadly that would only make 2 up there, all the 87-96 you could ever want though.

[Weberman]

Wish I could work on it today but its raining out. So I know awhile back I asked about the transfer case lever/linkage. I soaked it and it still won't move. I know when I first got it, it did move, kinda stiff if I remember. When I loaded the parts truck on the trailer, I put it in 4L and in 1st. It went in smooth as butter, much smoother than I ever remember the Bronco's. I know when I bought the Bronco, they said that the transfer case was messed up, they said the wheels wouldn't spin. I've had it in 4x4 before, made sure the hubs were locked in and knew it was in 4x4. Could this maybe be what they were talking about? Idk if anything internal could make that happen. Could I take the linkage apart and lube it up that way?

Also I'd like to just say thanks for everyone that has helped. I know that the vacuum leak had me going for awhile, I never would have thought about the carb to intake leaking out so much. But hoperfully onto making actual progress instead of getting discouraged looking for the same vacuum leak over and over with no signs. That carb spacer really helped since I knew I could get a nice seal up top.

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you got the vacuum problem sorted.  Those can be a pain.

On the transfer case, I'm doubting that it is the linkage.  Instead, I'll bet there's a problem inside the t-case.

But you can divide and conquer.  Take the linkage apart.  There are probably two nylon retainers, one on the shift lever and one on the lever going into the t-case, that hold then ends of the link.  A little bit of heat, like a hair dryer or heat gun softens the nylon and lets you pull the link out.  Then you can see if the lever itself is frozen or if it might be a problem in the t-case.

[Weberman]

I think it may be stuck in 4x4. I'll have to go check the other truck for reference. All I know is that I locked the hubs in, backed up a bit, and heard a pop. Took it for a drive and it made a noise. I thought what the hell and got out and unlocked the hubs. Kept driving and never heard the noise again. The drive went well. Wish I had a reference point what it should feel like. I personally feel like it should have some more get up but idk. I need to go through everything so I know there is no drag. Whatever this front axle thing may be could cause drag, brakes, etc..
Also I've known this but the steering needs to be replaced too before I go too fast. Steering wheel is pretty sloppy but driveable down the county roads. I believe the fastest was 40mph I got it to briefly today.

[Gary Lewis]

The plastic "sliders" in the linkage inside the transfer case wear out and fall or break off.  Then it doesn't shift correctly, if at all.  The parts are cheap, but the t-case has to come apart to replace them.

[Weberman]

It came with another transfer case. Its been so long since I've looked at it though and the interior panels are on it, but I think it's the 1356, and what's on it currently is the 208