1982 Bronco XLT

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yum!     😋
Hopefully it won't take 2 quarts to get it to come clean at the bleeders

[Weberman]

Haven't done any bleeding yet but got everything on and that should be it. Then maybe suck the diffs out and replace the oil.

[Weberman]

Took maybe 1.25-1.5 quarts, not bad.
Got it driving and it feels good. Feels like I have more power and rides sooo much better. Got it a bit out of the driveway on the county road and it just died. Towed it back to the house and did some diagnosing. The HEI module went bad. I luckily had a spare because when I first wired it up, I did it wrong and thought that the module was bad but then I checked the diagram when rehooking the new one up and found my mistake. It was just a Standard from O'Reillys. The original was an AC Delco I got from Amazon. Not sure why but that could have been part of my running problems too. When I switched them real quick to check my problem, it started but idled very low. Low enough that it died after a minute or two of idling and I'm surprised it didn't sooner. I bumped the timing up a bit for now so it would idle but still has a problem when in gear now again. But the new transfer case so far seems great. Seems like a lot less throttle to move when at low speeds.

Guess its time to tune the carb again for the new HEI module. May just go get another module since it has a lifetime warranty and just throw it in the glove box for a spare for whenever the AC Delco might go out.

[FuzzFace2]

Good to hear less throttle needed than before to get it  moving and sorry on needing a tow back to the house

Question on the HEI module, is that in place of the DSII box and if so why (with out me going back through all the pages).
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you found it that easily, but bummer that it quit so quickly.  If you have to tune the carb 'cause it runs differently then the first one must have been bad.

[Weberman]

Glad I only made it only like 200ft from my driveway haha.
My DSII went out and so I went ahead and switched it to the HEI module. It gives full 12V and I'm also running a TFI coil out of a fuel injection truck. I read that the HEI made a hotter spark and the TFI was the best and cheapest out there for an even hotter spark.

Reading the reviews on O'Reillys for the HEI module, I'm not alone. A few said that it would just die randomly while driving and would start right back up. Another guy said that over 3,000rpm and they would just die. Another said it would cut out above 2,000. Another said that he had idle issues due to poor idle spark.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The low impedance of a cube coil is never a good match with the DuraSpark module.

The transistor just can't sink that much current.
That's why a DSII coil has the winding ratio and ohms that it does.

If you want crank retard with a GM module, find one intended for a Toranado*.
Then you can use the stock wiring or the (I) terminal of the fender relay to pull back spark while the starter is engaged.

[Weberman]

What all would it take to use this? I was thinking about switching but needed the skid plate and the skid plate was like $175. I think I've read where the gauge will switch. Full is empty and vice versa. Was there ever this hole opening and the correct ohms? Is there somehow to modify it?

[Gary Lewis]

Well, you've come to the right place to ask the question as I sorta went through this recently.  But the answers, plural, aren't simple.

First, the tank will fit.  But while the opening will take a Bullnose sender, the tab on the sender that goes into a slot in the opening will orient the sender the wrong way 'round.  So you'd have to cut another slot in the opening to get the sender to go in correctly, and my fear was that the tank would rust there since you would be cutting away the galvanizing and there is surely moisture at times there.

You can go with a later model sending unit, which will orient correctly in the tank, but all of those include a pump.  Plus the resistance range is different and backwards to the Bullnose sender, so you gauge will not only read backwards but not even close to correctly.

However, there is an electronic device called a Meter Match that will mate the Brick/Aeronose sender to a Bullnose gauge.  I'm running one and it works.

So, while it can be done I'm not sure I'd recommend it for you.  I went that way because I'm going to be running a '96 EFI system so went with the complete fuel system.

[Weberman]

Yeah I thought about putting in a regulator and using that pump. Be quieter and in tank, but probably too much flow for regulator.  Just was worried about the gauge. Still may pick it up like I said since I need to swap tanks anyways and thought about the 33 gal. If I could get him down a bit, it would be what the skid plate costs from JBG.

[Gary Lewis]

I have a new 38 gallon tank I'll sell you for half the retail price.  But I suspect shipping will make it less than a good deal.  And, it is the large opening tank, but I have sending units with pumps I'll sell that fit it - again at half retail.

[Weberman]

Would my frame even have holes for the skid plate to go in or would I have to drill them?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I believe it does.  I think all the frames had them.

[Weberman]

Well I got it today, got it all for $150.
Would there be too much flow/pressure to use a regulator on the factory EFI pump or should I use my small electric one still?

[Gary Lewis]

My '95 factory EFI pump put out so much that a single return-style regulator wasn't enough to handle it.  So I put a dead-head style regulator after the return style and that combo works very well.

[Weberman]

Took it out on the highway yesterday. Seemed to do alright and got up to 64mph according to my GPS app. Does the C6 need linkages to downshift? It shifted up just fine. Think I'm going to get the new tank and stuff in and get a pressure regulator. Even though when I called and asked about the fuel pump, I was going through stuff last night and found the instructions with it. It says the pump is regulated in no way and should be.

Also does 15-16" sound good with the 268H cam? It sounds good and runs decent but it barely idles in gear.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It doesn't "need"
But the vacuum modulator won't force it into a lower gear like the kickdown linkage will.

Do you have ported or manifold vacuum to your distributor advance?

[Weberman]

Should be on ported as I have the vacuum gauge on the other front port on the carb.

[Weberman]

Can the gear ratio be decoded from the VIN? It's just raining at the moment so I don't want to get underneath it. I went and looked for the sticker real quick and there's very little of it left. Just a couple specks. I put the rear end up real quick before it really started coming down and tried to count the amount of turns the driveshaft did but don't think that's right, unless it would be half, then it would be 3.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Sticker???

You mean the metal tag attached to the one stud in the front or rear end?