1982 Bronco XLT

[Gary Lewis]

They will swap.  I put a 1356 on Dad's truck where a 208 was originally.  You might have to make some changes on the linkage, and you might have to change output yokes if it was off an F350, but the transfer case will bolt right on.  As will a 1345 if thats what it is.

[Weberman]

From what little I just searched, seems that people favor the 1356 slighty. Not that I'm sure it really matters as I have never had any problems with a transfer case and I haven't heard of anyone having problems, provided with maintance and not 800HP offroad abuse.

[Gary Lewis]

When I was trying to decide between the 1356 and 208 for Dad's truck I talked to a local 4WD specialist and he said there's so little difference in the transfer cases that it doesn't matter, much, which you pick.  But when I pushed him he said if it was for his "toy" he'd pick the 1356.

Having said that, the 1356 has a problem where the oil pump's arm can sometimes cause a serious problem.  Ask Jim.  So, if you are rebuilding one you need to have a mod made.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I honestly can't say how many miles were on that 1356 transfer case when I got it.
It came from a '90 plow truck that was so salt rotted the frame fell apart, so I can be sure that truck saw plenty of time in 4wd.

I did install it about a decade ago when I snapped the input off my T-19.
I never had it apart or did anything to it but fill it up at that time.
The pump seized and spun, or spun and seized (I can't say which)

The locating finger for the pump is easy enough to mod.
But they are not easy to find at all

[Weberman]

Thats pretty well what I saw, pretty even across the board. I did see someone say something about that with the 1356. Said it wasn't too bad with the case out of the vehicle for the mod.

[grumpin]

I had a 1356 go out on an 88 F250 with the 7.3 diesel I used to own. Wouldn’t shift into 4WD.

But, the truck spent a lot of it’s life as a private contractor wild land fire fighting rig. I met the owners son one day at the parts store. He was telling me stories I didn’t want to hear.

I have a 208 in my 86, it’s fine, it whines, but I like it and hopefully that’s a trait!

[Gary Lewis]

If you are doing some offroading you might choose based on gear ratio, with lower gearing usually being better:

NP208 2.61
BW1345 2.74
BW1356 2.69

But, that doesn't tell the whole story as you need to multiply that number times the transmission's first gear and the rear axle's ratio.  So, for Big Blue with a ZF5 and 3.55 rear gears that looks like:

NP208     53.00
BW1345  55.64
BW1356  54.62

Not a huge difference, but enough to tip the balance when making a decision.

[Weberman]

Any good shocks for these trucks? Or just pretty well whatever brand favorite is? I tried looking up some KYBs I have on my Superduty but couldn't find rears on the Mononax.
Now that I'm at a point where this thing can move itself with power, I'm about to spend some money. Front end needs new components, might as well do brakes too. Thoughts on brake master replacement? It's just pretty dang rusty. Gonna do a total fluid change as its the blackest fluid I've ever seen. Might as well be the oil I drain out of my diesel.

[Gary Lewis]

I put Monroe Sensatracs on Dad's truck and they worked really well.  Loved them.

I have Bilsteins on Big Blue, but mainly because that is what was on there when I got him.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Move to an '87+ master cylinder.
There are plenty of threads about that here.

I have simple Gas-a-just in the back of my truck.
Don't fall into Gary's trap of thinking this truck is something that it isn't, and never will be.

[FuzzFace2]

Weberman wrote

Any good shocks for these trucks? Or just pretty well whatever brand favorite is? I tried looking up some KYBs I have on my Superduty but couldn't find rears on the Mononax.
Now that I'm at a point where this thing can move itself with power, I'm about to spend some money. Front end needs new components, might as well do brakes too. Thoughts on brake master replacement? It's just pretty dang rusty. Gonna do a total fluid change as its the blackest fluid I've ever seen. Might as well be the oil I drain out of my diesel.

I have HYB's on my 81 F100 4x2 flare side I got through LMC. I was ordering other parts at the time so why not right LOL
If for my everyday SUV I would check with the local parts store and get a middle of the road price shock.
On an 86 K5 Blazer w/6.2 diesel I ran Rancho's with the factory suspension but I found they were a little to stiff and broke the mounts. Had 1 front mount and the same rear mount 2 time break.
Truck also had 230K on it when I sold it so guess that not bad over 16 years

I know guys say go for the newer plastic type master but I like "KISS" and went with the stock master.
I also had to replace the booster at the same time and got both from the local parts store (AZ).
I was also pressed for time as I needed to use the truck so did not want to fuss making it work.
My brake system was drained and parts replaced as part of the rebuild so the fluid was new and clean.
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

By the way, I forgot to mention that if you have the quad shock option up front you don't want to put 4 of the same shock on there.

When I got Dad's truck there were 4 of the same shocks on and the ride wasn't very good.  I just assumed that was because it is a truck.  But when I was replacing the shocks I talked to a tech at Monroe and he told me that they are supposed to be different.  So I went to the Master Parts Catalog and, sure enough, they are.

I bought their Sensatracs and it really made a nice improvement in the ride.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Dave, I don't know what's not stupidly simple about swapping the coiled lines front to back?  

He said he doesn't like the rusty cast iron master cylinder he's got.
And those tin lids never seemed to seal well for me.

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Dave, I don't know what's not stupidly simple about swapping the coiled lines front to back?  

He said he doesn't like the rusty cast iron master cylinder he's got.
And those tin lids never seemed to seal well for me.

Its just me where I can just un-bolt and bolt back up with out changing other parts like the brake line because of the fitting size. I know some said you can get the fitting off a JY truck but I cant get to JY's.

Yes he did say "rust" and the newer master would not rust LOL.
Yes my master has rusted a little but so far no leaking lid.
It's just me (OCD) I don't like the look of the newer master in the older engine bay.
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

If you buy the right master it comes with the residual pressure valve, and save for swapping front/rear it bolts in.  No junk yard needed.

As for the look, maybe you could put a bag over it?  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Read the threads....
You only miss out on the check valve if you buy a reman from some chain store.
Buy a master from Amazon or RockAuto and it comes with the residual pressure valve.

[FuzzFace2]

As for the look, maybe you could put a bag over it?

Now that is funny right there

I guess I never really went through the post for that master swap and the valve / line as I never wanted to do the swap.
Dave ----

[Weberman]

I found a thread that a 95 was used and it was just switching the lines? May go pick one up from the junkyard since they're $8 there.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Any '87 on...


Gary used a '95 because that's what year F-450 the Hydroboost came out of.

[Weberman]

That's what I thought but saw 91 and 95 mentioned more than others. As long as I take that valve with me it seems.

Went to put the mirrors on from the other truck, worked out good. One of them is pretty stiff so I put some PB on it hoping for the ball to loosen up to where I can move it better. Put the other door panel on for now. Might as well rock it as it was better than the faded red/pink and busted up blue one.

Looked at the transfer case, got some panels and saw a tag through the back window. It says 1345 - 37, so 1345 it is.