1982 Bronco XLT

[ArdWrknTrk]

Be mindful that a Bronco/150 is going to have a different bore and mounting spread than a 2 or 350.

You're going to want the right size so it bolts up and the master ratio is correct.

[Weberman]

Also I've been looking at rims to replace the ones that I have. I thought they were OEMs but saw that all the ones like these are painted and not chrome like mine. I've done some looking and were these not a factory option? All factory options I have seen are 15" and the ones like mine steel, while these are chrome and 16". I was wanting to try and find some as one of them is pitted pretty good and I would like a better one/set but haven't ever found any.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't know that Ford ever offered chromed 16" rims with a 5 lug pattern.

If they're Ford they'll have an engineering number stamped on the back side somewhere.

[Gary Lewis]

The codes should be adjacent to the valve stem on the back side.  And they are shown on the Identification Codes tab on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Wheels.  But I agree, if they are 5-lug 16" wheels I don't think they were of the Bullnose era.

[Weberman]

Yeah that's what I'm seeing for 5 lugs, 15" only. Im just gonna have to look from something on the inside of the rim. The truck they came off of was a 1991 F150.

[Weberman]

Might swap out the transfer case next week. Is there anything needed for the 1345? Or is it pretty well some fresh fluid and slap it in?

[Gary Lewis]

The 1345 should bolt right in.

[Weberman]

Only the 1356 that has the oil problem?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, the 1356 has the oil pump problem.  The 1345 doesn't.  Rebuilt my 1345 and checked that out when I did.

[Weberman]

I've started soaking bolts down. I remember having to disconnect the rear end and the driveshaft once to get it to move and I dont think it was bad, hopefully these wont be either.

I've also started soaking down bolts in the front end. I'm going to be replacing tie rods, ball joints, coil springs, shocks and gonna try the adjustable camber bushings for/with the new springs.

[Weberman]

Picked this up today at the junkyard.

[Gary Lewis]

That's a good upgrade to a Bullnose.  Love mine.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Did you get the low fluid warning plug that fits in the opposite side?

It's always nice to have that functioning.

[Weberman]

I did, grabbed some wire and the connector. Could someone tell which wires get spliced into? Where is the connector for ours and which ones on the new one do I connect?
Along with the other stuff, I'm going to be doing brakes in the front too.

Also I saw one I was originally going to take with an extra port. I'm guessing this was for cruise control?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I will take a picture of my '87 EVTM when it's daylight.

The low reservoir switch is analogous to the check spool switch in the multi function valve of a Bullnose era brake system.
And, of course, now you have the residual pressure check valve right at the MC.

Yes, an extra port was likely to serve as safety backup to disengage the speed control.

[Weberman]

Yeah I was just wondering since there were 3 wires on the reservoir. Just switch the lines and that's it? No taking anything else off in the system?

[Weberman]

Didn't take it out but did loosen/check bolts on the transfer case. Most were fairly easy to get off. The only ones I don't know about for sure is the front driveshaft ones since I'll need a wrench, but if theyre anything like the back ones, they'll be good.
How does the speedo cable come off? Does it just pull out? Twist and pull out? I have that bolt/tab off.

[Gary Lewis]

The speedo cable is held into the t-case by one bolt.  Pull the bolt and you can pull the cable out of the t-case.

[Weberman]

I thought so, just double checking before I go yanking and break something.

[Weberman]

Got the driveshafts removed and the speedo cable out. Guess I'll be doing a front U joint for sure as when I took one side off, the cap slid and let some needles out so. Not too upset since who knows how old they are.