1982 Bronco XLT

[Weberman]

Called the last guy that does custom stuff and he said the minimum would be $200.. the Custom Diff guy also said that the yokes are $200 used easy if I find one.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, you still haven't given any numbers on bolt circle or distance between holes.
I'm going to have to look up the output seal and shaft diameter.

This may mean you need to use an output flange instead of a yoke....
I can't say for certain, yet.

A depth (offset) from the mating face to the face where the nut sits on the old yoke would be helpful too.

[Weberman]

That's what the guy said I could do, is just put a flange on there was $140 I believe. I'm going to call JBG today since they were closed by the time I was going through my calls to see. The CV flange from center to center of the bolt holes was 2.8in x 1.5in. I went against the outside of the bolts still in the joint and it was 3.15in x 1.8in.


In other news, I got the coil springs and steering kit in. Gotta order a couple more things and I'll drive into the front end.

[ArdWrknTrk]

3/10 is not .375"....

This thing is taking all the torque of your engine multiplied by the gearbox, and the transfer case (if in low)

It needs to be right.

But I've got a wall here.
So I hope you can work it out.

The guys at JBG can be very helpful with driveline stuff.

[Weberman]

Well, hopefully it was just the guy I got but he wasn't any help. He started off by saying that there were no 31 splines ever on a Ford and then I explained it and he just gave me a number and that was it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So, you have a number?!?
That's great!!!!  


Post it up, and we can find one.  

[Weberman]

I wish it was a part number, was just a phone number..

[Weberman]

From what little I did get from the JBG phone call, all Broncos should have it but, I was able to give my VIN to the dealer and got the VIN from the other case I thought about buying and they confirmed that it has the same CV centering yoke so that's an option I could jump on..

[Weberman]

Hopefully getting a lot done this weekend as it will be sunny and great temps. I have a few questions about fluids. What is the capacity of the front and rear diffs? How much fluid when I change the transmission filter? Biggest question of all, what should I put in the tranny? I've read many different things when I first got the Bronco and it needed some ATF. I think I found more for Type F for a 82 but figured I'd ask here since theres a lot of knowledge here.

[Vic Roma]

This is from the 1982 owner’s guide.

Dana Front Axle Lubricant:
Hypoid Gear Lubricant: C6AZ-19580-E, Ford spec. ESW-M2C105-A or equivalent
3.9 US Pints (84 and 86 guides show 3.8 US Pints

Rear Axle Lubricant:
Conventional: Hypoid Gear Lubricant: E0AZ-19580-A, Ford spec. ESP-M2C154-A or equivalent
Traction-Lok: Hypoid Gear Lubricant: D3AZ-19580-A, Ford spec. ESW-M2C119-A or equivalent
In 84 and 86 guides, both rear axel types use E0AZ-19580-A, Ford spec. ESP-M2C154-A or equivalent.

9.0” (has no removable cover plate):
6.5 US Pints. Fill to 0.4” below bottom of filler hole.

8.8” (has removable rear cover plate):
5.5 US Pints. Fill to 0.6” to bottom of filler hole.

Automatic Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid:
Motorcraft Dexron-II XT-2-QDX r/b XT-5-QMC (Mercon V)

Automatic Transmission volume:
4-Speed NPG 435: 7.0 US Pints, or 3.5 US Quarts
4-Speed Warner T-18: 7.0 US Pints, or 3.5 US Quarts
4-Speed Overdrive: 4.5 US Pints
Automatic C-6: 26.8 US Pints

Transfer Case volume:
Warner 1345: 6.5 US pints, or 3.25 Quarts
NP 208: 7.0 US Pints, or 4.5 US Quarts

[Weberman]

Some parts didn't come in Friday even though the 2 front shocks came a day early..oh well though. Still got a good amount of work done. Changed out all the tie rods and wow.. I now know why you could turn the steering wheel from 12 to 3 with no direction change, it'll be a lot safer to drive now. Since the front shocks we're the only thing that came in from the order so far and the tie rods we're off so it could allow max travel, I changed out the coil springs and shocks. I ended up buying a transfer case and it'll be here Monday so hopefully I can swap that yoke out and drive it. The u joint to the transfer case is pretty sloppy too so I got one for that too, probably going to have to rent a press tool to get them out as I tried with a clamp with my hand and it was not happening.

The new coils made it a bit higher than I wanted it, but I kinda like the height so looks like I'm going to have to find something for the rear to raise it up a bit.

Here is a picture of one of the tie rod sockets, they were all like this but the inner passenger.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Give the new springs a chance to settle before you go swapping to a 250 4x4 block in the rear.

[Weberman]

Yeah I was gonna drive it around the county roads some to see first. Right now the front is at 38.25" and the rear is at 35".

Also I realized after posting earlier about wanting to change the diff fluids that I don't have any removable covers do I? I'd have to take the D44 and the 9" out to change the fluid. "Correctly" at least.

[Weberman]

Well some good and bad news. Bad news: new transfer case is like the other one, the yoke is too wide. Good news: When I took the yoke off, it didn't look like the other one at all. It didn't have the square splines. Went and got the original yoke and it fit right on. Tapered splines and 32 of them. It sucks that I'll have to take the transfer case I just put in out, but at least I'll have a combo that works. It is perfect, no seal change or anything.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I think the good news negates the bad news!  

[Weberman]

It for sure does. Just wish that I could just swap yokes on the one that's in there. The transfer case wasn't too bad to be honest, the jack that I bought helped A LOT. I'll be trying to get some flex head wrenches or maybe some u joints though because those top ones took for ever with just a good ole wrench.

[Weberman]

Well, the old is out. I'll put the new one in with the swapped yokes, but still wont be able to drive it to see how much easier it drives. I'm excited to see since the old one you have to grab the yokes to turn and its still hard vs just spinning it with two fingers via the input shaft on the other two. I could barely get the other u joint out and I took the centering yoke out, saw a couple needles laying in there and also maybe a half of one? Was very short. But, thats the part I'll have to wait on next to drive this thing again.

[Weberman]

It is finished. Now for the rear shocks and putting the front brakes on and bleed with the new master and we'll see how this thing drives.
It'll look better once Summit sends me the right wheel caps.. second order of the same thing but oh well. I have a set of 4 to sell a 2wd person maybe.

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's!  Gonna be fun driving it.  

[Weberman]

I got the new master cylinder in today. Took the old one out and wow. The fluid was so dark, looked like the oil I take out of my diesel. And then all of this nice stuff at the bottom.

Hopefully Saturday I can put the new calipers and pads on and bleed the system and take it for a drive.