1982 Bronco XLT

[Weberman]

I'm gonna pick up some spark plugs tomorrow and then try that with the breaker bar while the plugs are out.

[grumpin]

I agree, when you said it tries to fire every so often, I thought timing. Jim has a good idea there.

[Weberman]

How much should it be between going back and forth?

[Weberman]

The rotor stays just a little bit at the slightest moving of the crank.
Replaced sparkplugs and fired right up. Ran for a bit and it started loading down and I pressed on the throttle more to keep it running. I noticed some puffs of black smoke and then it went a little bit more than puffs of black smoke.
Eventually died to where it wouldn't start and actually popped and there was a small fire in the carb. So there's definitely fueling issues for sure. Not sure on timing as I had to keep advancing it to make it start the more it got loaded down with fuel, and also not sure about the wire cross thats possible on these.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, if the rotor changes direction at the same time you change direction of the crank it doesn't seem there's much slop in the chain.
But the backfire in the carb certainly does sound like a skipped (or really sloppy) chain.

Your cam card will tell you what the firing order should be.
I'm not on top of the Windsor cams, but know the H.O. cams are different.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think more than 5 degrees of crank reverse is too sloppy to run right.

It's much easier for most people to visualize the breaker bar as the minute hand of a clock, and divide the 360 degrees around the crank into 72 parts.
So less than one minute on a clock.

[grumpin]

Was it the 302 or 351 that could have the wrong firing order with a different cam? I thought it was the 302 and you used the 351 firing order.

I can’t remember, did you make sure the distributor is installed properly?

Backfiring and a carb fire could be timing.

[Weberman]

I'm assuming you're talking timing marks, if so it was just a few small bumps before moving, that probably equaled 2* when going back and forth.

The parts for that Holley should be here today so I'm gonna clean it up and throw it on there and see if its any different.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Nothing about timing marks.
You're never looking at the crank damper.
.
You have a breaker bar handle.
You turn the crank clockwise while watching the ignition rotor.
You stop and turn the crank counterclockwise.
How far does the breaker bar handle move before the distributor rotor decides to go the other way?

If the answer is more than 5* then you have your answer.

[Weberman]

Making sure we're talking about 360* and not timing marks. On the second very slight bump backwards the rotor started moving so I would say thats good.

[Weberman]

It is the 302. The normal 302 and then the 302 H.O. which shared the 351s. I've thought about that before too and switched it. I need to see if the wires are crossed.
1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
The 4-2 and 7-8 wires is the ones to look for since they're right next to each other in the firing order and run on same sides. It actually helped a truck that I'm working on. I'm sure with the hotter spark its a very real possibility as to why there is fire in the carb and with it keep being advanced to make it run with so much fuel.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Crank timing marks are 360*, but I can't see them and my distributor rotor at the same time.

Where, I can see the breaker bar directly in front of the dizzy.

[Weberman]

Holley was a no go. I turned the key on to let the pump fill it up and it just started leaking fuel everywhere from it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's a bummer!

Can you figure out what your fuel pressure is?

Was the Holley blowing fuel out the vent tubes too?

I've got a $7 FPG I sometimes deadhead on the bit of fuel line coming from my filter.
But I've never had an overpressure situation.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Weberman wrote

 I turned the key on to let the pump fill it up ....

Is your pump on constantly with the key in run?

[Weberman]

I'm very close to buying a regulator and a gauge so I know that it would always be that pressure and to know what the pressure would be.
It started leaking from the bowls, and I saw some drips from the boosters. It is always on with the key on, but this was me flipping it on and running over to watch it and started leaking less than 10 seconds. Never came out of vent though.

I've also noticed something else that could fueling the vacuum leak too. Where the intake is thin on the sides, the Edelbrock has holes/dimples in the bottom that are the same width almost as the metal on the sides of the intake. I noticed the imprint when I took it off to try the Holley.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The bowls I could understand if the gaskets are bad, but if the boosters are spewing, the float valves aren't seating or the pressure is too high.

I would buy a carb spacer that seals before I bought a regulator.

I think I'd also figure out a way to 'safe' my pump, if I were you.

You can probably take the fuselink from (I) and hold it to the hot side of the starter relay to get the pump to run while you're under the hood.
But I have no idea of the wiring of an '82 5.0l Bronco.

[Weberman]

The holes I'm talking about are near the middle bottom, near the secondaries. They're about the same width from as the intake. I might put that metal plate back in that Edelbrock said to take out and get a regulator that they said would be fine too..
Thats 2 carbs it has come out of the boosters. Just a drip here or there. Thought I took care of the Edelbrocks with the float level being a bit off but it was still clearly getting way too much fuel

[ArdWrknTrk]

If you cleaned the seats and set the floats correctly the only answer is too much fuel pressure.

I'd still get a spacer to get that carb away from the thin walls of the intake.

Glad I didn't have a situation like that with my AVS.

[Weberman]

Yeah I'll throw that thin one on again tomorrow or Saturday and try again. Idk why this intake has such thin sides.