1982 Bronco XLT

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's!  You are making progress, but there are apparently several problems.

First, RTV doesn't work well around gasoline.  So using it on a carb gasket is not a good idea.  And the two black marks suggest you have a mismatch between the carb and the intake.  Like maybe a spacer is missing.  Can you post a pic of that area and especially the black marks?

It runs in my mind that Edelbrock sent a thin steel plate that was to go between the carb and the intake on some applications to close off a passage, like the EGR.  It was to be carb, gasket, plate, gasket, manifold.  Do you have that?

Second, if you have the idle mix screws all the way in and the engine is still running then there's another source of fuel to the engine than the idle circuits.  But the only way I know of that happening on an Edelbrock 1406 is if the fuel level in the carb is too high.  Or if the check valve has been left out of the accelerator pump mechanism.

Edelbrocks only like about 5 psi of fuel pressure.  More than that and the fuel level at idle can rise because the pressure is lifting the float via the needle.  What pump are you running?

And if you've answered all of these questions before I apologize as I've not taken the time to go back over the whole thread.  But I didn't see the answers on this page.

[Weberman]

I already cleaned the black marks but I'll try to make a pic later. It was like half way on the skinny sides if you're looking at the engine. I can post a pic of the gasket.

Im running an Edelbrock electric as this engine had the Ford TBI, so no fuel pump hole.

I had no idea about this plate til yesterday. I called O'Reillys and I kept asking for a gasket and they kept talking about this plate and I thought they meant like a 1" spacer but it was just a plate and came with 3 gaskets.

[Gary Lewis]

Depending on which pump you are using you could have too much pressure.  Do you know the pump model or #?

And are you running the three piece gasket/spacer setup?

[Weberman]

I believe I'm running the 38gph, 4-7psi pump.

I just put a gasket on since I had no idea what the plate was for.

[Gary Lewis]

Edelbrocks don't like more than ~5 psi of fuel pressure so it is possible that the pump is giving you too much.  Is it adjustable?

As for the gasket, you should be running both gaskets and the plate.  That may well be the cause of the problem.

[Weberman]

Put the plate on with some fighting.. got the gasket and rtv off, put the plate in and as I was tightening up I noticed that one bolt wasn't really getting tight.. I looked and half the stud had come up.  So then I almost bought a helicoil but just out of curiosity, I got a tap out and ran it down the hole. I cleaned some up at the bottom it felt like. Got a different stud, put it in, put a couple nuts on and tightened it down some and it held when I put the carb back on and tightened the nuts down.

Vacuum may be 1" or 2" better, but its steady. The needle would bump around here and there before but now its a solid reading. Idle is still high but it also kept dying here and there. I think the last time before I called it quits was maybe due to an fuel idle screw but idk. I did mess with them some and still were pretty shut for idiling. I noticed on the last few that I would have to hold the throttle a bit for it to start. Flooding itself from pressure??

[Gary Lewis]

If you have the idle fuel mix screws shut and it is still idling there is certainly a problem.  In my experience that can come one of two ways.  First, if you left the check ball or weight out of the accelerator pump setup.  Second, too much fuel pressure.

Is your pump adjustable for pressure?  If so, dial it down to see if you can get the thing to idle properly.

[Weberman]

No, I'll have to get a pressure regulator, there's no adjustment on the pump. I know that the check ball is there

[Gary Lewis]

Before buying a regulator I'd call Edelbrock's tech support and tell them what carb and pump you have and see if they think it can be too much pressure.  They may say I'm all wet, in which case don't spend the money.

[Weberman]

I called Edelbrock today. He said that the fuel pump should be okay. I guess its self regulating but how would it know? Still thinking about getting a regulator so I know my settings would be right. How do I know if I'm tuning the carb for 4psi or 6psi?

As for the screws, he said make sure that the throttle screw isn't too far in, I said well heres the thing, its not touching at all. So he said major vacuum leak still and its causing the primaries the fuel and its not on the idle circut, which makes sense. I guess I'll take the top half off of my carb and then do a smoke test through there. He says unless the carb base isn't straight or theres a bent shaft, there has to be one somewhere. He also said that I should definitely get rid of the mounting plate since its the same mounting pattern.

The only thing I can think of is that since its a dual plane manifold, the leak might be on the otherside of the manifold. The brake booster vacuum only went to one side of the intake.

[Weberman]

Screenshot_20201121-084616_Gallery.jpg
Screenshot_20201121-084633_Gallery.jpg

Is this a correct box for the wiper delay? I noticed in the pic in the write it had the same middle numbers but none of the outside ones. Im guessing I'll have to find a switch too, someone already took it out.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, it is.  If you note in the pic in the writeup (Documentation/Electrical/Windshield Wipers) that the E0TZ and AA are painted on, but that the 17C476 is stamped in.  The one you found initially would have had a prefix and a suffix painted on it, but they are worn off or covered up.

As the writeup says: Note that the module shown is the 1980 version, as shown by the E0TF prefix on the engineering number.  There are at least three other later versions that will work - a 1984 (E4), a 1987 version (E7), and a 1990 version (F0).

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think I have an F0 in my truck.
They are all pretty much the same until Ford went with putting everything in the turn signal lever.

[Weberman]

Yeah I thought it would be the same since I saw that a 1990 (which is what this came out of) would work and it had the same part without the paint but wanted to double check before I picked it up and it didnt work.

[Weberman]

Some new progress.
Haven't done too much with the holidays and getting cooler and not wanting to do too much outside after work.
I took the carb off to get the gasket, metal plate, gasket out of there like the tech said. I noticed that it had near the same imprint that the old gasket did on where it met the intake manifold, there were gaps in the middle. Nonetheless, I picked up a carb spacer to tape over to eliminate any leaks from the carb and to have it access both sides of the intake since its a dual plane. I put it on and it leaked from underneath. I took it off and thought to get a sheet of sand paper and use the spacer as my flat surface. It  has been taking awhile but the leak has been getting better. When I sand, I noticed in the middle of the side doesn't have many scratch makes and its starting to now finally. I put it on this last time and just a small out of air comes out and I'm blowing through the tube pretty hard.. I believe the intake gaskets to be fine. I can just think that when I used the sander, I went harder on the sides which made them lower.

I also picked up another truck. Who knows what the real story of it is. He had a video of it running and says that the carb is flooding out and wont start til the next morning. Showed up on a Thursday and he decided he wasn't going to sell, then that night he wanted to after I was already there with cash and trailer. Then he was moving for work and kept dropping the price for it to be gone. Picked it up Saturday and brought it home.
It is a 1983 and the interior is gray/black. Not a huge fan of the red interior and the dash was cracking. One door panel is red and pretty faded, the other is blue and cracked. The 83 somehow has no cracks in the dash and the panels are great. I really bought it to take the dash/panels and both the bumpers and swap them out and then sell that truck. Its also a 4spd 4x4 so I could keep it til I know that the trans is good on the Bronco which is probably what I'll do.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Congratulations! Another one for your fleet.
If it is something simple to fix you might just flip it when you know your truck is good.

I usually would use a flat file on a surface like that.
At least that's what I do when I find pitting on a timing case.

Cory was stymied by a warped spacer, so don't trust that unless you've checked it against something like a granite countertop.

I'd imagine if you pulled a stud out, that's enough to wrap the carb base as well as move an aluminum intake flange.
So I'd probably be lapping the carb body on some 180 or 120 wet-or-dry as well.

[Weberman]

Yeah with the gasket, metal piece, gasket there was spaces on both gaskets so I'll be sanding that too

[Weberman]

There was also a Holley 750 DP thrown in with it too the second time I came so I also have one of those now too. It has the factory 2 barrel on it. Like I said he thinks its was getting too much fuel and fouling the plugs and thought it just needed a rebuild but who knows.

[Weberman]

Got the intake to seal with the spacer yesterday. Cleaning the carb and going the check it for it being flat. Hopefully have it all on tomorrow.

[Gary Lewis]

Hope you get it all together tomorrow.