1982 Bronco XLT

[Weberman]

The tab inside the rotor broke off. The tab that engages the distributor

[Weberman]

Still has 0 will to start. The timing light comes on when I crank so I know I have spark. I did a compression test again just to make sure (it still hits lightly every now and then) and it has compression. While I had the spark plugs were out I cleaned them off as they were decently black.. no surprise really with the way I'm having to get it to start/run. Took the carb apart and gonna ultrasonic clean again. Gonna pick up another fuel filter and add one on the frame and maybe replace the one up by the carb. Idk what happened. It was running really good and then as soon as I unplugged the vacuum gauge to put a cap on real quick it just died immediately and thats been that. Hopefully with the cleaning the carb and the spark plugs off I can get it going again.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'd be looking at how the rotor could break before I touched my carb.

If it dies immediately because of a small vacuum leak something else is amiss.
Truck will usually just idle high if it has a leak.

What was your idle vacuum before you pulled the gauge off?

[Weberman]

When I pulled the gauge hose I did hit the distributor a bit.. I was thinking maybe I shifted the base enough while it was over there that it caught and that tab gave.. it was also not as big as the last one so I just thought the bump and a cheap rotor.

Vacuum was around 12 when I pulled. I've also pulled it and capped it before while running with 0 problems.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm sure your cam affects vacuum, but 12 at idle, with the throttle closed seems awfully low to me.

[Weberman]

It is.. before the rocker arm coming off happened.. it was at 16-18. I can set the timing up higher to 14* (which I know increases it and the idle), vacuum goes to 24.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'd think you want to be around 12* base, but a lot depends on how your dizzy is curved.

[Weberman]

I'm at 10* right now to keep the idle somewhat down, but I'd like to go to 12

[ArdWrknTrk]

Isn't that what the throttle stop is for?

Is there a reason you can't use 12* base?

[Weberman]

I could, just trying to keep the idle down somewhat since the screw is backed out all the way

[ArdWrknTrk]

So, where is your vacuum leak?

[Weberman]

I've done the leak at the carb and then new distributor and need to keep going. I bought my same carb but manual choke yesterday so I may take the top off and duct tape it real good so its a nice flat surface so I can do one without leaks. I was pushing pretty hard on the towels last time so

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's got to be pretty bad if the truck won't idle down with the screw not even touching the throttle stop.

[Weberman]

Put the carb back together and cleaned the carbon off the plugs doing the compression test since they were black.. still wont start. I probably at this point will take the top of the carb off and then duct tape it so its a nice flat surface to seal. Idk if the leak got even worse somehow when that happened or what, but it needs to be done regardless.

[Weberman]

Who knows.. I took the new distributor out, put the old one in checked and adjusted timing, fired up. Switch back to the new one..started right up. Also tried starting the other night and nothing from the key, didn't activate the solenoid. Tried the next night and its worked since. Likes playing games I guess.

[Gary Lewis]

I hate intermittent problems.  

At least you have it running.  Now what?  What are you going to try next?

[Weberman]

I guess more smoke test. I added another fuel filter and added some seafoam to the tank when I cleaned the carb and the fuel seems to be a lot better so maybe there was just some bad fuel in there from before too from not being all the way empty. Its not as dark as it once was.
Sounds a lot stronger and the mid seems more responsive but still lacks some power. Hopefully the 2nd fuel filter and the seafoam cleaning/stabilizing the fuel will take care of that part.

Hopefully the vacuum leak is causing the power loss. I don't know how much power a leak could take away but otherwise my other thought is transmission..

[ArdWrknTrk]

You think your transmission is holding the truck back?

I know C6 never really lock up, but if it's slipping and the engine is running away from it, that's very different from the engine lacking power.

Hopefully you can figure out why the engine won't idle down, and get that solved.
Are the secondaries fully closed?

I just don't get it, that the screw is not on the stop, and you are using timing retard to keep the idle under control.

[Weberman]

Idk. I just tried to do a burn out on grass and it seems like it stops revving up quick and then just kinda takes off. I figured even a stock engine would break the tires on grass.

[Weberman]

Well I found a leak. I got another carb and took the top off and used duct tape. It leaked at the throttle shaft so I just thought I'd take the carb off and seal the intake and use the brake booster line to smoke. Lifted the carb gasket and saw two black marks on both sides, about half inch long. I still sealed the intake and tried blowing in but all I got was back pressure so I'm going to say the intake gaskets are good. Got another gasket and put a light coat of RTV around the skinny sides of the intake and as soon as the starter touched the flywheel it fired right up. Had about 20" and then I hit the throttle a bit and it would barely idle but I caught it before it died and turned the idle screw in. Then it was idiling and I blipped the throttle again and it idled really high. I backed the screw off and its back to having the screw not touching for idle. Vacuum was about 14". I also had the idle jet screws all the way in and it was still idling. It got lower but it didn't die.

I dont know if I should've maybe let the RTV sit a bit more and its leaking there again or what. It was at like 10" before all this. So 14" is better but isn't the 20" I first got when I first did this. Also the screwing in the idle jet screws all the way and bringing the idle down a bit but not killing it has me concerned.