Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[ReneH]

Ok...I've also one in the basket. The air temperature sensor isn't available from motorcraft at rockauto.com...so I'll try walker.

Regarding the transfer case...I have the borg warner 1345...




What does this mean for me? It is worse than the 86 stock TC? So if I haven't the stock one, one of the former owners seems to have changed it...maybe together with the transmission...me was told, that my stock was an AOD...

[ReneH]

Here is the base for my own build steering damper...



Polyurethane plus 1mm stainless steel as safety part.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, that's a BW1345.  But it may well be the original one to the truck.  If you go look at the Applications tab on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases you'll see that there are several engine & transmission combinations for the U150 that show "W1345".

Having said that, I believe that one has been apart before.  In your closeup of the tag on it there's red RTV hanging from the mating joint.  I've not seen one from the factory have that.  So remind me why you think it needs to be rebuilt?

And those look like good materials to rebuild the rag joint.  But just remember that where it is gets hot, so everything needs to handle heat quite well.

[ReneH]

I think, I should rebuild it, cause if I grab the yoke, I can move it up and down by hand. The bearing definitely has much play...same like both on the rear axle input shaft. The deep rolling sound gets much better since I've change the bearings of the rear differential. I think, when I also change the ones inside the TC, it will be gone.

Would a readable photo of the tag, help to know the transmission value of the TC?
Or was there only one type available?

Back to my question, if I need something else as the revision set, I've posted before...I will also look for the chain, as you've said. If I understand right, what I've seen, the chain is only in use in 4WD!?

About the RTV, I have had the same thoughts from the time, I have read that there is no paper gasket available.

The polyurethane withstand about 90 degrees constantly. I think I wouldn't deal with those temperatures at this place. Also the common rubber won't have a higher temperature resistance.
But changing this will be work for another day or two, cause I have to remove the whole steering shaft.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm not sure I understand your question, but I don't think there are different parts for slightly different BW1345's.  In other words, if you get parts for a 1986 BW1345 then I think you'll be fine.  And while in there I'd replace the chain - although it is only in use in 4wd.

And there is no gasket, just RTV between the case halves.

As for the steering shaft, I think you'll be fine with that material.  

[ReneH]

About the different parts...What I've meant, was maybe lost in translation...

I was talking of different gears, like available for e.g. the differentials.

About the chain, I've to take a closer look, cause rockauto seems to have nothing in stock or even listed...

[ReneH]

Now, I'm sure....rockauto can't supply me the correct chain. I've found one on eBay, that seems to fit with the partslist and application. What do you think about the price?

eBay

[ArdWrknTrk]

They've got the chain. It fits both the 1345 and my 1356.
I think the price you've found is good. I don't want to tell you what I paid when I cooked my transfer case a few years back in the hinterlands of Vermont.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary Lewis wrote

.....And those look like good materials to rebuild the rag joint.  But just remember that where it is gets hot, so everything needs to handle heat quite well.

I did away with my rag joint entirely by welding the steering box input spline to a later(2009-14) F-150 lower shaft that Incorporates universal joints and a cross shaped sliding section.

I had to be careful by keeping the joint wrapped in a wet rag, but it removed all that slop and vagueness from my steering.  😉




Like this one on eBay

[Gary Lewis]

Good find on the chain, Jim.  And since RA will ship to Germany the price difference is moot.

As for the lower steering shaft, your approach is a great one - for our application.  That's because our trucks have a very straight shot from the steering column to the steering gear so there's no real need for two u-joints to smooth out the rotational speed.  But in some applications there's quite an angle between the steering column and the box so using just one u-joint will give an odd speed-up/slow-down in the steering as the steering wheel is rotated at a constant speed.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, the lower shaft has U-joints on both ends.  (the one at the sector box is covered by the plastic shroud)

[Gary Lewis]

Oops, my bad!  Thanks, Jim.  And please see my note to you on the other thread about creating a how-to.  I'm happy to do the work if I have several pics or links thereunto.

[ReneH]

Hi, Jim.
Thanks for the find on rockauto.com.
I'll check what's the better source including shipping.

Regarding the shaft, it's a nice solution!
But I'll stay first with my idea and maybe switch to a borgeson shaft in some years.

[ArdWrknTrk]

For me the difference between $30 and $300 for the Borgenson shaft was a deal breaker.
I needed to do something about my rag joint and had more time than money.

[ReneH]

I know what you mean!
In my case I haven't much of both...neither time nor money...

[ReneH]

So last weekend, I've installed the stock throttle body of the 351W, that I've bought refurbished from Autoline. I've already done a basic setup and have to do Ford's idle adjustment procedure, the following weekend, as described here in the shop manual.

Another positive effect is, that the whistling noise is gone!

I've also measured my coolant and air charge temperature sensors, cause I have also bought new ones. The resistance was the same as on the installed ones when all at the same temperature. I have changed the coolant temperature sensor, cause the one from 1994 fits much better from the smaller size of the connector. But it seems that this have made no changes.

I still have the problem to start the car when it's cold. It's only possible by pressing the pedal slightly and hold the rpm between 1,000 and 1,500 for some seconds. It appears most when the ambient temperature is below 10 degrees Celsius.

[Gary Lewis]

Yippee!  Glad the whistling is gone.  That's a step in the right direction.

And while you still have the cold-start problem, adjusting the idle may help that.

But are you saying that you have to hold the idle up to 1000+ RPM?  The ECU isn't doing that?

[ReneH]

Yes, it is...

That are also my thoughts.

Yes, when the engine is below about 10 degrees Celsius, I'm unable to start it without pressing and holding slightly on the pedal. When the engine or ambient is warmer, it is no problem. Maybe I should also change the air temperature sensor, only to be sure.

[Gary Lewis]

The starting problem seems to be associated with the throttle position.  At cold temps it takes a rich mix to start the engine, but if the TPS is telling the ECU that the throttle is closed more than it really is then maybe the ECU won't give it enough fuel to start?  

Hopefully the adjustment this weekend will fix that.  If not then maybe it is time to replace the ACT?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Maybe i don't understand these early fuel injection systems, but shouldn't the idle air control valve be able to get the rpms up above 1k?
The difference between intake air temp and coolant temperature should be what the computer uses to set injector pulse width.
Is this year using a coolant heated throttle body?