Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, if you can find the head and get it out that would be better than using a saw.

[ckuske]

Got it out, it was Bondo.  Dug around the screw and was able to get the apron out.  Tomorrow, the next one...

[Gary Lewis]

Well done, Chris!  The less you destroy getting it apart the less there is to fix it.  

[ckuske]

Thanks Gary, I'm glad I took a second look at your suggestion.

I started with just wanting to swap out my radiator.  Now I have the whole front of the truck apart  (but having fun!)

[Gary Lewis]

Well, someone on here keeps saying "These trucks are like onions.  We keep peeling and crying.  But eventually we have a Bloomin' Onion."

[ArdWrknTrk]

Chris, do you mind me asking which tire step you have and what you like/dislike about it?
I've been looking to get one (or two!) and don't have a lot of people to ask for feedback.

I too am glad you're making progress!  
Even if you're in deeper than you expected.

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Chris, do you mind me asking which tire step you have and what you like/dislike about it?
I've been looking to get one (or two!) and don't have a lot of people to ask for feedback.

I too am glad you're making progress!  
Even if you're in deeper than you expected.

I think I got my step from HF and has worked fine for me.
The only other place I would have gotten it from would be Northern Tool but I don't think so.
Dave ----

[ckuske]

Hi Jim,

I've only used it a couple times since I've been busy ripping everything apart lately, so I can't say much about it yet.   But the few times I did use it, it was nice and sturdy.  

I'm 5'10", so having those extra few inches really helps reach back by the carb/EGR, etc...

This is the one my wife got my for Christmas (gosh, she's a keeper... she came up with it on her own)

https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-647596-Truck-Service-13-Inch/dp/B0002Q8TWI

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks for the link!  

Yes, that's a thoughtful and considerate gift.
You really are fortunate to have a spouse that not only supports your truck hobby but encourages it.  

[ckuske]

I had good luck on eBay (thank goodness for their saved search function!)

I found the exhaust shroud, and managed to get the seller down to $125.  Not too bad I think, I've seen them for $300 and even $400.



A couple things - is there anything I can put on this so it doesn't rust this time around?  Now granted the old one lasted 30+ years, but I'm wondering about some sort of sealant etc.  I don't know with the heat involved if anything will stick around that all that long, but I thought I'd ask.  Or just paint it with high-temp paint?  I'd like to keep the steel look around, and not have to paint it...

I looked on the bottom of the old one (it slid right out, that was nice)... it appears there are two bolts to hold it to the exhaust manifold.  What can/should I put on the screws to ensure some day I can remove them if needed?  What high-temp anti-seize?  In my research it seems they are 5/16" x 3/4" -18... can anyone confirm?  Thanks!

If I see another one on eBay, I'll be sure to post it on the Marketplace ASAP.

[ckuske]

Oh, I also got the other fender liner out.  Hosed both of them down, scrubbed them with Dawn dish soap then rinsed, let them dry.  Next is to use SEM soap on them, but need to get a scuff pad tomorrow.  Then, use Sand Free adhesion promoter and spray with the SEM Trim Black!

Then, I'll move on to the frame.

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's on getting the shroud, and especially for that price.  

I don't know what you could paint it with to protect it given the heat it sees.  But maybe someone will know.

On the bolts, I don't know if anti-seize will stand up to the temps, but Jim will probably know.

[Gary Lewis]

Forgot the fender liners  I'm looking forward to how that works out.

[ckuske]

Here are some before pics:

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, those look like the ones on Big Blue.  Well, maybe better as his have some places where they've gotten a bit hot and warped.

Can't wait to see what they look like when you are done.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

You could nickel plate it.
Won't rust, won't look chromed.

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

You could nickel plate it.
Won't rust, won't look chromed.

I was wondering how powder coat would hold up?
The other thing would be Jet Hot coatings if they would even do parts other than headers.
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

Powder coat isn't going to hold up to exhaust manifold temperatures!

Ceramic coating anything isn't cheap and takes time.  (Ask Gary)

If you have a battery charger and a plastic bin you could plate it in your garage for less than $10 in a half hour...

[ArdWrknTrk]

I can't speak to the exhaust manifold studs on a small block, but yes, on my 460... 3/8 into the head and 5/16 to hold on the tin and dipstick.

Just use stainless nuts.
You will have a full hex to use a wrench on, and the corrosion on the stud threads can be burned off with acid.

Stainless is SO much better used in a one sided situation like this.
When both threads are CRES you have big problems with galling.

Copper plated fasteners are also great for exhausts, when you need a high strength or hardness fastener for something like a turbo housing and don't want to pay for aerospace quality hardware.

Again copper plating is nothing more than a through cleaning and a few minutes in a tub with an anode and $2 worth of copper sulfate pentahydrate.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, plating like nickel or copper is easy.  Did a bunch of it in Jr High and many of my father's tools were copper plated.  I'll bet his hands turned black when using them.

Powder flows at something a bit less than 400 degrees, so I don't think it would work.  And Jet Hot is expensive and does take time, like Jim said.  I think it cost me ~$600 for the headers.  But the wait was several weeks.