Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside

[Rembrant]

ckuske wrote

I was cleaning the frame off by the front coils, and one of these buggers fell off the frame, holding a brake line to the frame.

 I'd like to keep the original look, even if they are less than optimal.  Anyone know where these can be found?  I know there was a thread from 2018 with no luck, but thought I'd ask again.

Funny, I ripped all of them off my frames and replaced with cushion clamps. Unfortunately I threw them all out, but I would have gladly sent them all to you. I feel like I save too much stuff sometimes...but at the same time I feel like I've thrown away a lot of stuff that other people could use.

[ckuske]

I appreciate that, Cory.  Logic tells me to not use plastic parts, they'll just disintegrate like these did.  But I suppose in another 40 years I won't care...

In the end I'll probably go with that style of clamp, but thought I'd give it a try first.

[ckuske]

Hey, that's a pretty clever idea!  I'll see what I can find at the local hardware store to that end.  I have to pick up a few bolts to bolt the new exhaust shroud to the manifold in that area anyway...

[ckuske]

Some updates:  I'm still working on cleaning up the frame to my satisfaction, but decided that I'd take another layer off stuff off to replace since I'm tired of scrubbing and grinding: the A/C Drier, A/C Evaporator, and the hoses/lines to go with it.

The only line that has been hard to find is the Evaporator to Compressor line (E4TZ-19867-C/F), but I found one on eBay that looks like it'll work.  The others I see at RockAuto (Four Seasons)

When I look on RockAuto though, there are two choices listed for each hose:  "Pre Charged" or "Factory Charged".  I'm assuming I want the Factory charged, as my system is Integral A/C and not Dealer Installed.  Or does it mean something else?  Which would I choose?

Also, I need to put new O-rings on, and read in another great thread about putting in the red orifice tube for moving to R-134A.  I will eventually take it somewhere to get the system charged, as I don't have all the fittings and vacuum equipment.   I think I need to lubricate the O-rings with PAG oil so I'll do that when assembling.  Anything else to be done so it's ready to be charged?

Summary:
New Hoses
New Evaporator
New Condenser
New Accumulator/Drier

The only "old" thing to stick around is the compressor and the switch that screws into the Accumulator/Drier.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know about the oil.  Maybe others that do will chime in.

But on "Pre Charged" vs "Factory Charged", I think they are saying the same thing with different words.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

If you have compressed air buy a cheap needle scaler at Horrid Fate.
I can't tell you how many hours these things save chipping off blistered paint and layers of rust.

I don't have an answer for your hose question.
If it was IRT a compressor or accumulator I would say it had the proper amount of oil already in it.

[ckuske]

I wasn't clear, sorry my question regarding the In-Plant vs Pre-Charged was actually driven from the Ford Master Parts catalog, and the definition was right there.



Thanks for the tip on the scaler, I'll check it out!

Regarding the oil, it's not clear to me where the oil should be (I'm showing my ignorance here).  Only within the compressor itself?  There won't be any oil inside the rest of the system?  If it should be anywhere else, I sure don't see it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ah!
This has caught out a few of our members when parts store hoses didn't fit.

I think Dave (Fuzzface2) couldn't get his two systems to merge.

Oil belongs in the compressor but it is going to get spread throughout the system ultimately.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, that's a significant statement, and the definition is certainly good to know.  Thanks!

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Ah!
This has caught out a few of our members when parts store hoses didn't fit.

I think Dave (Fuzzface2) couldn't get his two systems to merge.

Oil belongs in the compressor but it is going to get spread throughout the system ultimately.

Yes I did, my 81 was a factory system with a York compressor.
Thing is I went with a later (84?) compressor and it takes different hose ends that what I had.
Well IIRC only 1 hose was different or was that 2?
the hose from compressor to dryer was the hard one as the newer hose fit a different drier and the newer drier would not fit the evap.
So it was the 81 drier & think 81 hose that I used to the compressor. The hose runs across the valve cover and not to the firewall like on the later trucks.
The other hose from compressor to condenser worked from the later system.
I had to re-use the high PSI hose from condenser to evap as I doing think I could get one at the time and it looked good so I went with it.

As for pre & after charged. The way I was told is if it had service valves it was a pre-charge system, mine had valves both the York & the later compressor.

As for the oil I also went around & around on what to use and how much!
I would need to check the bottle to see what I used and notes, think posted here on my AC thread, on how much I used.
It should be added to each new part un-less it said it was pre-filled. Some compressors come pre-filled.
I had a used compressor but was told to add oil or they would not take it back if it was bad.
Had a new condenser, drier, hoses and flushed out the evap. so system was about empty.
I added a little to each part before I pulled a vacuum. I also did not want to hydro lock the compressor if oil was added to just it.

I think I used a blue valve as that is what came out but I also know its been posted to use the red valve.
Now most that say use the red is on a big cabin car or truck, I have a single small cabin so did not see the need to change colors. Now if it was a Bronco then I think I would have gone red valve.

Also I could not check the high side PSI when I did my system, it has a different fitting than my gauges has. I had a leak at an O-ring and lost 97% of the charge so I was able to swap the O-ring out, pull a vacuum and recharge and iw working again.
My son helped this last time, he has done HVAC would before, so he went off supper heating / cooling numbers and the temp of the system when charging.

He also thinks this new fitting size is what the newer cars & trucks use, I forget what he said it was and will try and get a fitting for it so I have it, but so far my system is running cool again.
Lets say OAT of 80* fan on low, max AC and coldest temp setting going down the road at 50 MPH/1300 RPM I was getting under 25*f out the vent.

If you need more information I will see if I can find my post & notes.
Dave ----

[ckuske]

Thanks for the feedback Dave, I'll come back and refer to this as I get closer to assembling things (still waiting on a different compressor to Evap hose, the one I ordered didn't work)

You make a good point about the R134 adapters - I assume those just screw onto the existing service ports near the accumulator and the compressor?

[ckuske]

A small update, I painted the blower/AC plenum in the engine compartment.  It was looking pretty tired.
 I tried scrubbing it, and the dirt is just impregnated in there.  I imagine it may be greyish also from just the heat exposure.

I'm not sure what the temp rating is on SEM Trim Black, the data sheet had nothing to say about it.
 I guess we will find out?

Before:



After:

[kramttocs]

That looks really good!

[Gary Lewis]

Wow!  Really nice.  

[ckuske]

New update for everyone

The skinny:
Removed front shocks
Painted front part frame with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator/Extreme Chassis Black
Replaced EEC IV coil, rotor and distributor cap

Next up:
Install new front end shocks (Bilsteins)
A/C component installation
Remove/paint valve covers
Install new fuel pump/lines w/new filter
Replace spark plugs/wires
Replace transmission pan gasket (take to garage)

The longer story:
I've been quietly chipping away.  I went through my existing log I keep in Google docs as I fix things... a logbook of sorts.  I've been trying to hop from thing to thing as to not get frustrated with slow progress, so I'll take an easy win, and then go back and keep working on some of the longer process things (like painting the frame)

I had a note in my logbook noting that when the truck was idling, I'd notice it missing occasionally.  No rough idle or anything, but I would note a 'blip' in the exhaust note every 5-10 seconds.  So I started poking around, and noticed that the distributor cap and rotor had a decent amount of carbon on the contacts.  Not knowing when they were replaced (coil was original!), I've updated those things as easy wins.  I tested the coil and it seemed OK, but I figure at 37 years old, maybe it's prudent to get in front of it.  So I bought a Motorcraft replacement.  I'm trying to use Motorcraft parts where practical cost wise, and there isn't a large performance improvement. (I can't do anything performance related in California anyway unless I want to fail smog).  I have new spark plug wires (Taylor brand, never heard of them before but they seem to have good specs (250 ohms/ft resistance) and reviews. Plugs (Autolite XP25s) are ordered too.  I know some people don't like Autolites but I've been confused with all the different codes/heat ranges between manufacturers so I'll give these a run.  Fingers crossed.

Painting the frame had lots of prep as expected, but it looks good.  There are a few spots I need to get better when I put the truck on some jack stands so I can wiggle around better underneath.









I took the shocks off to paint the shock mounts - I knew they were old and needed to probably be replaced.  Boy, was that a correct assumption.  I was able to press them down with two fingers, and they did not even try to return to their previous position.  They were basically there in spirit only.  I have some Bilsteins on order, they seem to be the best around and I think the yellow accent will look cool with the blue color of my truck.

Next I intend on putting the front end back together with the existing grill and headlight bezels, and get everything working well mechanically. I still had the hesitation issue off the line, and a long time needed to start after the truck sat for more than a day, so we will see if any of my other upgrades/replacements help.  If they don't, I'm temporarily putting a glass fuel filter in so I can verify fuel flow and   Then I can pull the truck out, drive it a little, get my transmission fluid leak fixed, (I'm guessing a lift would be super helpful for this) then back it into the garage so I can take the bed off and fix my front bed crossmember (rusted), and paint the frame.  And, look at the gas tank.  It's original so I want to see if I need to replace while I have the bed off.

Then, put the interior back together (after painting with SEM blue) and get this thing painted! (This is probably a year out)

[FuzzFace2]

The work you have done looks really good
Mine looked that way till I painted the truck as over spray got under the sheets & paper  But I know the frame was done to protect it.

I went with white KYB's on my truck and I think they ride great.

As for the hard starting after sitting a few days this is normal with today's fuel, and no fuel from the carb CAN NOT drain back to the tank!
What happens is the fuel evaporates from the carb float bowl and it happens faster when there is heat from the intake heating the carb.

For the most part my truck will sit for a week between trash runs and it is also hard to start. I should say it takes a lot of cranking to get it to start. Last few days I have been driving it to work so it fires right up with just 1 pump of the throttle.
So one (on the other forum) said he added .9 gallon of diesel to 16 gallons of gas and that help with starting but that may have been a hot restart?
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Wow!  That's a LOT of work!  Well done, and it is looking good.  

I have Bilsteins on Big Blue, and in my research I was told that they are some of the best.  I can't say that they are the bees knees, but they work just fine.

[ArdWrknTrk]

You've done a LOT of work!
And it does look great.  

Just like Dave, I went with KYB.
Bilstein's are renowned for quality. I don't think you can go wrong there.

[ckuske]

Thanks!  Shocks are one of those things that you would like to just work and not put much thought into it...

[ckuske]

Thanks Dave.  It takes probably four to five 15 second cranks to get the engine started.  If I run the truck the same day (warmed up or cooled down), it's no problem.  I haven't replaced the battery yet, but the battery gets worn almost all the way down before the engine catches.

I noticed an old GM film Gary posted regarding all the wrong ways to start a carbureted car.  I've been guilty of all three bad ways at different times.  (Just press pedal down once and then crank, no pumping, or holding pedal down).  So, I'l try that next time I can start the truck again and see if anything improves.

I agree with and understand what you're saying about the fuel in the bowl evaporating, so I'm not expecting instant starts.  But, I'd like to think fuel can get pulled in within 10 or 15 seconds of cranking though, not 60+, especially if fuel is still in the line from the pump to carb and pump to tank.  If the bowl was empty, the accelerator pump shot would be wasted too though, so perhaps that's part of the issue as to why it takes longer to start when the bowl is empty as well?