Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside

[ArdWrknTrk]

Even if you went out and bought the Caswell nickel kit for $50 you're still way ahead of the game
It won't rust or come off.
Plating copper first will help.

I know I have more than enough 'stuff' in the barn.
But be careful if you use stainless for an anode, in this, or rust electrolysis.
The chromium compounds left in solution are pretty carcinogenic.

[ckuske]

First of all everyone, thanks for all your feedback on plating the exhaust shroud!

I did some local calling around, and the results weren't great.  Everyone wanted a minimum of $150+ for nickel or zinc plating.  Probably local/state costs around hazardous materials etc...

One place I did call offered a ceramic coating option, for $80!  The owner said it was rated to 1500 degrees Fahrenheit, and he could match the original appearance pretty well.  Here's a picture of an example of the finish.  Seems like a no brainer?  Website is http://www.xtremeperformanceheatcoatings.com/

[ArdWrknTrk]

Sounds like a winner.    

I don't think it looks too much like mill finish steel, but it is metallic and shouldn't rust.

With the deal you got, you're still way under the $3-400 you say you've seen for that shroud.

[ckuske]

Agreed, Jim.  I'd rather keep the exact finish, but in another 30+ years I don't want to have to (or my kids have to!) try and find this part again when it rusts out again.  There won't be any NOS by that time!  It's close enough that the difference in finish won't bug me unless I'm underneath the truck staring at it , and it adds significant corrosion protection.

[ckuske]

Here's the one I had been watching for $350 for months and months:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1981-1982-83-Ford-Exhaust-Manifold-Heat-Stove-Shroud-Assembly-EOSZ-9A603-A/173803729128

[Gary Lewis]

I'd jump at ceramic for $80.  Well done!

[ckuske]

Thanks Gary, I brought the shroud to the ceramic coating shop, two weeks lead time.  Should turn out nice.  the owner gave me a tour of the shop, and gave me lots of other ideas on how to spend $$$ there (powder coat wheels, polish windshield trim, etc)

In the meantime... well, let's say mistakes were made.  To test fit the new shroud to verify it fit, I have to remove the alternator off its bracket to slide the new shroud in.  I had it resting on the frame, and today I bumped it and it fell on the floor.  I immediately said a few choice words for my bad decision... The alternator itself seems OK (I hope!) but of the wires (O/LB to the battery I think, see pics of the alternator lug below) had it's connector flex and break off the alternator lug.

The wires and harness appear ok, I was looking at connectors and it seems an open barrel connector is the way to go, but if you look at the pictures of the wire, the crimp has insulation underneath it.  What connector would you recommend?  I'd like to avoid soldering if possible, but maybe this is how it was done originally.  Wire gauge seems to be 14 or 16, I can't find details in the documentation.



Bottom line, how would you guys reattach this?  The wires are gunked up in the pics, they're not all black anymore haha.

[Gary Lewis]

Bummer!

The wire was stripped back far enough for the copper strands to go into the barrel of the connector, which was then crimped with enough force to turn the connector and wire strands into one piece of copper.  And the rest of the connector was crimped over the insulation to give strain relief.

As for how to re-attach it, if you have a high-quality crimper meant for that size of terminal, then use that.  But it takes a serious crimper, not your cheap parts store variety.  A lot of leverage or mechanical advantage is needed to crimp that size of wire, and most good crimpers will have die made for that size and have a ratcheting action.

But you asked how I would do it, and realizing that all of the current from the alternator goes through that I'd solder it and cover it with heat-shrink lined with adhesive.  Part of that is because I don't have the right crimpers, and part is because that's the way I like to do it.

[ckuske]

Soldering seems better. But OK, considering I haven’t soldered since I was
12 or so and I don’t have any of the tools anymore: Soldering iron, or
gun?  Regular solder with flux in it would be ok?

On Fri, Mar 12, 2021 at 4:45 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum]
<[e-mail]> wrote:

> Bummer!
>
> The wire was stripped back far enough for the copper strands to go into
> the barrel of the connector, which was then crimped with enough force to
> turn the connector and wire strands into one piece of copper.  And the rest
> of the connector was crimped over the insulation to give strain relief.
>
> As for how to re-attach it, if you have a high-quality crimper meant for
> that size of terminal, then use that.  But it takes a serious crimper, not
> your cheap parts store variety.  A lot of leverage or mechanical advantage
> is needed to crimp that size of wire, and most good crimpers will have die
> made for that size and have a ratcheting action.
>
> But you asked how I would do it, and realizing that all of the current
> from the alternator goes through that I'd solder it and cover it with
> heat-shrink lined with adhesive.  Part of that is because I don't have the
> right crimpers, and part is because that's the way I like to do it.
> Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
> <http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Gary-Lewis-tp149.html>
>
> *Dad's* <http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Dad-s-Truck-Build-tp7104.html>:
> '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M"
> w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
> *Blue:* 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a
> 3.5L EB & Max Tow
> *Big Blue:* <http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-td234.html> 1985
> F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac
> in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI
>
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[Gary Lewis]

Rosin core solder.  And a soldering gun.

[ckuske]

Thanks Gary, much appreciated. A self-imposed layer of the onion this time.

[kramttocs]

Regarding the crimper, another member recommended this awhile back and it has done really well. They also make a heat shrink terminal one that I use quite a bit. The crimpers are both really good quality. Kids destroyed the stripper trying to cut something not meant to be cut but it seemed decent.

When you go to buy some adhesive lined head shrink buy extra. You'll find that you always run out at the worst time

[ArdWrknTrk]

I have that Iwiss kit and a couple of their dedicated crimpers too.
I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it.

There is nothing like having a ratcheting crimper when you need to make a quality connection.

Also, you can purchase adhesive shrink assortment connections inexpensively from Amazon.
I have a few boxes.

[ckuske]

Do we think the crimper Scott sent (thanks Scott!) will suffice for the gauge wire I need to crimp?

Will probably buy the soldering stuff too for other stuff bound to come up.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I use solder for connections 2 and up.
I don't have a hydraulic crimper and I don't think I need one.

[kramttocs]

I think that wire came as either 10 or 12awg depending on the alt size. The crimper can do 10 but seems like Ford's jackets are pretty thick so it might be tight.

I can see if I have that harness and can test the crimper on it tomorrow.

[ckuske]

Alternator is a 40 amp

[Gary Lewis]

The Iwiss crimper would be a good addition to your tools, and it would do a good job of this w/o soldering.

To my way of thinking, a good crimp will do as well as a good solder job.  I prefer solder as I've done that for probably 65 years, but a good crimp fuses the wires and the terminal together and it will work nicely.  However, it takes something like the Iwiss tool to make a good crimp.

[ckuske]

Thanks all. I’ll probably start with the crimp, and get the solder gun next week and maybe get some practice in on that. I should have a soldering tool around, I work with electronics a lot at home now (but I’m just a lowly software guy) but it’d be nice to repair simple things or replace a resistor etc on my own....

[kramttocs]

Went out of the shop and did some digging. All my spares are 2g but my grandpa's 85 still had the harness hooked up and already had a replacement ring terminal crimped on.
Removed the ring terminal and the wire checked out as 12awg. The jacket OD was 0.16".
The fuse link was gone though (replaced with a wirenut ) so can't confirm that it was a 16awg.

Crimped on a 10-12 uninsulated terminal using the crimper. It was a tight squeeze but made a nice tight crimp.
Normally I'd heat shrink it like the other guys but this harness would get replaced anyways.

Even if yours happened to be a 10, the terminal is the same so you're good with that crimper if you choose to go that route.