1986 F350/460 ambulance reprovision

[Westerj]

Switch is A, B, Both, off.  Also a box under hood.

[Westerj]

box is 1" steel box tubing with alum skin. Gotta get knotted wire brush for 4" grinder and then paint with rusty metal primer. Some day.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Cool vintage isolator!
Gary would be interested in that, as he's gone into many eight page microanalysies.

Is the tubing exposed on the inside???
I wouldn't think there would be any way to keep a structure like that sanitary.

I can't see your attachment from my phone.
But I have seen some decent magnetic worklights.
I don't think even my little battery powered Braun LED would stand up to the jarring your truck may see.

Just having switched powerports back there (where cigarette lighter lights might plug in with coil cords) might be the optimal solution if you want to be able to move them around.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Westerj wrote

Crows foot line wrench. Dang. Did you take off  tube nut, and leave adapter
in manifold,  or put plug into manifold?

Ty

I backed out all the extraneous email garbage...

Here's pics of how they look 4 years later:

[Westerj]

OMG. Thouse kick panels came off, got a pile of stuff.
At least half was mouse nest. Need to get shop vac on that. Where
Are these duck bill valves seen??

1 gallon of chud out, mostly passenger side.

Thanks a ton for that pointer. i bet there
Are more rodent forts in ductwork yet to find.

Mouse body count stuck at 4.

Cowl removal is 2 screws ( one towards each
 end) and 6 or 7 with hood gasket.. then wiper arms
 Come off and finally cowl comes off??

Not doing console before this is back together.

[ArdWrknTrk]

See?  

The cowl drains are forward and across from the kick plates.
You'll be able to see the inside of them with a flashlight when you finish vacuuming the muck out.

The cowl has screws up towards the windshield base hidden in the slots.
I think it's five across, but I have a polka dot cowl, so I'm not certain.

It's also probably best to remove the radio antenna while the cowl is in place.
It's a lot less awkward than wrestling the whole thing while trying it to disconnect the cable on the bottom.
(Yes, it is possible. No, it is not easy for the uninitiated or the faint of heart)
So, heads up on that too.

[Westerj]

Able to see those "drains"... how can they work?? They don't. Hose time today. Pulling fan motor and looking in that way...
Has anyone drilled a releif hole ( 3/8" or so...) to let water drain out? Have to pull  fender to delete the ineffective
duck bill valve?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Look at the mouse nest user HBF84 dragged from California to Maryland....



I have posted pictures of mine with the fender cut back, so you can see it from the outside.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've used a trim pry tool to get them off, but last year about this time I just reached up there and pulled them off (once I decided I'd had enough)

I wouldn't drill any holes.
You have no idea how many layers there are in there...

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here are a couple of pics, from when I ripped them off, and when I cut my fender off to fix the damage done by the muck.

[Westerj]

That was the other day. Today . Got hose out.. Passenger side clean... and intact!

[Westerj]

Drivers side hosed out too.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's great, to see there's not a lot of rust and rot in there!  

You're doing a great job evicting the squatters from your truck.
I hope I'm being helpful.

Do you find the traps are missing bait?
Are you finding droppings anywhere?
(These are regular wooden Victor traps?)

[FuzzFace2]

So others know what we are talking of "duck bills" here you can see it just in front of the lower door hinge.

I left mine in place as I don't park my truck under anything.
It is either in the house garage (most of the time), my garage and if I take it to work parked in an open parking lot. Also not a lot of trees to drop crap on the truck when on the high way.
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

"duck bills" is the MUCH more polite euphemism that I've heard for these things!    

Good pic Dave!
Thanks.

[Westerj]

Thanks for your insight into where to look.  Invaluable.. would have rusted out in short order. 

Next bit... is this the standard compressor? with thermactor deleted,  need new fan belt, crank, warer pump, compressor, I'd guess?  Didn't see any tags on the compressor.

Thanks to you all for enduring help.  

 Are there any shop vac accessible ports pn driver side??

Finally,  for google searches, what do you search with for the 7th generation ( 81 to 86 was it?? )?  

"Cowl vent " +"7th generation" +ford

Something like that.?

On Sat, Aug 22, 2020, 12:51 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

That's great, to see there's not a lot of rust and rot in there!  

You're doing a great job evicting the squatters from your truck.
I hope I'm being helpful.

Do you find the traps are missing bait?
Are you finding droppings anywhere?
(These are regular wooden Victor traps?)

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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[Westerj]

THe duck bill are pretty stiff and unlikely to ever pass a single leaf out...  ANyhow..the hose was the trick if anyone is going to try. The plates ( to the right of passengers feet and left of drivers feet ) had to be pried off, but was all thats required to flush.. The organic junk blows out the Duckbill inspired by Water pressure.   tomorrow is the cowl removal, then putting it all back together. guess I'll leave the duck bills in place.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

The drains were never meant to pass debris.
That's why I got rid of them.

Be sure to caulk those panels back into the kicks, and you might want to check the sealant inside while you're in there.
Even a tiny leak between layers of steel can cause terminal corrosion.

Put a bead of non-hardening sealant (and seal the screws too) before you close them up.
Otherwise you'll have soggy floors every time it rains.

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

The drains were never meant to pass debris.
That's why I got rid of them.

Be sure to caulk those panels back into the kicks, and you might want to check the sealant inside while you're in there.
Even a tiny leak between layers of steel can cause terminal corrosion.

Put a bead of non-hardening sealant (and seal the screws too) before you close them up.
Otherwise you'll have soggy floors every time it rains.

And what do you do if you have a non-AC truck that don't have them metal plates as that is were the air comes in to vent the cab?

Yes I did have water come in when driving the truck during a heavy rain.
It was before I had working AC and had to have the vents open, windows cracked and defrost on to clear the windshield.
Dave ----

[kramttocs]

Those manual vents have a trough on the top to redirect the water so it's not running against the bottom lip like it does with the flat close-off panels. If they are leaking I would check the sealing gasket otherwise it may be unavoidable. Combine air coming in with water passing over and around the opening and it's very likely there will be some moisture making its way in. But that should be through the vents and not around it.