1986 F350/460 ambulance reprovision

[kramttocs]

What are you wanting to do with two batteries? Gary and I use a Cole Hersee smart isolator. If you want automated with a minimal footprint, that's a decent option.


The larger gauge alt cable is good (should have a fuse though). You are likely right with the cab feed coming from somewhere else. You may still lose the ammeter though if you disconnect c610.


Are you going 3G or sticking with this alt?

[Westerj]

Dual batteries may be a thing soon .. for now I need this thing to start working more like a truck than an ambulance.
I like where you all are going with the fat 3G alternator and the dual batteries. need to get it started and
start yanking the non Ford wiring,   Are replacement harnesses available? There are so many
configurations ... for f350? this looks doable, but a bit daunting: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/symm.php?Year=1986&Make=Ford&Model=Truck&sb1=+   There is also an kit for the 3G alternators!

[Westerj]

there is a connector in/behind the glove box. Maybe 8 wires going to it. Putty colored. Shoulda taken a pic. Is that my access point to hack the CANbus? (haha - as if!!). My 1985 Bronco II had an electronic carb... used to love running the test mode and hearing all the stuff clicking... and ... when all things passed it DID run well!

[Westerj]

Which Cole Hersee smart isolator would  you advise  for 2 batteries and one 3G alt

Would isolator be mounted under hood, controlled at dashboard??

On Sun, Oct 25, 2020, 11:23 PM kramttocs [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

What are you wanting to do with two batteries? Gary and I use a Cole Hersee smart isolator. If you want automated with a minimal footprint, that's a decent option.


The larger gauge alt cable is good (should have a fuse though). You are likely right with the cab feed coming from somewhere else. You may still lose the ammeter though if you disconnect c610.


Are you going 3G or sticking with this alt?

Scott
Daily driver: 'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
Work truck: 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/T18 - Gin Pole
Various parts trucks

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NAML

[ArdWrknTrk]

The Cole-Hersee is a "smart" isolator. It will connect the batteries while charging and disconnect when the engine is off.
See here

This is an alternative to the manual switch you suggested before.

I would not suggest the painless kit. Way too expensive for what is $30 worth of components.
I have a post somewhere with a list that includes everything and has links for all the cables, plugs and the fuse+holder.

If you're interested I also have a link to DB Electrical's webpage where they offer a 130A 3G that comes with the load response control regulator for $70 delivered.
Theirs has a 1yr warranty.
Alternatively, I probably have a 3G on the shelf that I could put a new LRC into, and go through the bearings.
You could have it for the cost of regulator and shipping, but of course it won't come with a warranty...

[ArdWrknTrk]

Are you saying you have no fuse panel above your left knee?
Is there some reason you'd want to rewire your entire truck, rather that just removing the console and associated wiring?

[Westerj]

The smart battery device will obviate need to run all
Current thru console and back. I am good with that.  Have found a
Voltmeter more useful than an ammeter, though a
Smart battery manager could be aware
Of current magnitude and direction. Could
Even do the starter motor current switching,
There are many models.  Any suggestions on sizing
For current and 3g alternators,  and 2 batteries? Where would
You recommend fuses or breakers?
50a to dash and 200a to starter?
Thx.
.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Are you re-wiring the whole truck?
With the current yellow wire going into the cab I would suggest 30A.

I wouldn't fuse the starter at all, but I would fuse the alternator.
My 3G has a 175A fuse, because I bought the holder with that installed.

[Westerj]

Cole 48122 looks a fit.
140A max alternator feed, so might
fuse around there.

Good,  so i can start pulling out the huge cables
To the console.  If i use the cole 48122, does energizing
 the #10 wire cut power?  If i skip the ammeter, do i need any
Shunts?  Seems that fuses replace the fusible links. Good x2.