1986 F350/460 ambulance reprovision

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gak!   Tell me about it!

It takes a lot of humidity for mildew and algae to grow.


I checked all the caulk in the rain gutters and stuff.
I had sprayed a bunch of flexseal in the cowl a year ago when I fixed my wipers and took the rubber boots out.
I had the windshield changed, caulked all penetrations in the firewall.
I had heard a 'pop' earlier this year, and when it stripped the cab to fix the floor and replace the rocker I found the flange in the footwell had given way.  (A big reason I don't like undercoat)
Re-caulked and flexsealed the cowl after the welding.
Pulled both plates. Primed, caulked and painted those pockets.

All that is fixed... and I'm still getting water after a rain (without driving it!)  😖

So I made holes in the troughs behind the door deals.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Down to 73 and the relative humidity is 56%

[Westerj]

Found a set of Seats from a 2001 F250 Supercab.  If I get the pan too, will that have any chance of bolting in place, or will it be a mig-welder special to get the pan attached to the floor pan?   I looked around here, didnt see any reference to 2000+ Seats, but did see a disclaimer that the super-cabs have a  dip in floor pan behind front seats that the Standard cabs dont have....  

[Gary Lewis]

I got lost.  Does your ambulance have a regular cab, Supercab, or Crewcab floor?  The regular and crew cabs have the same front floor pan.  The Supercabs and Broncos share a different one.  At least up into the mid-90's, although I don't know how long Ford carried that distinction.

So if the 2001 seats aren't too expensive you can try.  But I wouldn't tie in at any point other than where the factory did as that's where the floors I've seen are reinforced.

[Westerj]

It's a standard cab F350.  Bench seats for $175 or 40/20/40 for $400.

The 402040 are from a Supercab.
The Bench is from a Standard cab.

Have to drive an 90 min to take a look... maybe I'll take mine out first
and bring the "frame" that was provided by Ambulance fitter (that replaced
the "pan" typically found).

Edit: Found this view of 2001 ExtraCab seat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUZOScgZ_o8

the door-side floor tab is noted. As well. Seatbelts are integrated into the seat.

*# Make the best of your time and facilities #*


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 10:54 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <
[e-mail]> wrote:

> I got lost.  Does your ambulance have a regular cab, Supercab, or Crewcab
> floor?  The regular and crew cabs have the same front floor pan.  The
> Supercabs and Broncos share a different one.  At least up into the
> mid-90's, although I don't know how long Ford carried that distinction.
>
> So if the 2001 seats aren't too expensive you can try.  But I wouldn't tie
> in at any point other than where the factory did as that's where the floors
> I've seen are reinforced.
> Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
> <http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Gary-Lewis-tp149.html>
>
> *Dad's* <http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Dad-s-Truck-Build-tp7104.html>:
> '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M"
> w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
> *Blue:* 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a
> 3.5L EB & Max Tow
> *Big Blue:* <http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-td234.html> 1985
> F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac
> in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI
>
>
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[Gary Lewis]

I'm pretty sure a seat from a Supercab isn't going to be a good fit in a regular cab.  Even the guy on the SeatShop video said they are quite different.

That's not to say it can't be done.  It is just a question of how much work you want to do.

[Westerj]

Windshield wiper motor leads are .. umm.. melted.. that look where copper strands are all sortsa frayed out and looking sad!  Common thing?  Was that an Ice Event,  (motor stalled and wouldnt free up) of sign to replace the electric motor? Hope to dig into it tomorrow. Mouse body count has stalled at 6.5 hope the rest ran into the woods!  

[Gary Lewis]

I've not seen the burned/melted wires on the wiper motor.  But I'd change it out!

As for the mouse count, you are winning.  

[Westerj]

Rechecked,the ground strap from wiper motor headed straight down, likely to block.  That is toast... put the aluminum heat exchanger in. Scraped off the old dumdum, put a new bead of sealer down. Top tank cleared duct housing just fine, but was wider, so oem sponge collar wouldnt fit. Used foam that came with core to "seal" somewhat.  
Foam strip


Next.. debug no start situation...

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Good work on getting the heater core back in.  
As I recall that seal around the top is pretty stiff from the factory.

That ground is important.
The wiper motor is a pretty heavy draw.
When I grounded my underhood lights  there found mine had vibration cracked many strands.
It goes under the intake manifold bolt, second from the back on that side.

Tell me again what's up with starting your truck?

[Gary Lewis]

Progress!

[Westerj]

I parked truck on the back 40 a while back. Fiddled with soggy door pillar pockets, mouse trapping and heater core.  

Have been snipping out ambulance lighting, typically very different than Ford. Black tape and horrid butt connectors... 

Are the cruise control wires hacked into the harness?  seems so.

The wires that used to connect to the mega alternator ( hinted at previously) are found severed. Pic attached.   Can i ditch that whole connector? 

Alternator now goes right into the battery selector switch.  Can see new cables coming soon. 

Where does dash power come from? How to identify main feed?

Next bit might be to remove the console between seats.. with all those relays and heavy cables.  Lots of control stuff too, though mostly lights....

Carb is dripping, from the accelerator pump.... once i get it pulled up to the garage, from the back 40!

Side note: Looking at used F150 STX SCab, 2.7L ... might pull trigger tomorrow night.   Can't move much in an RSX! 2018 has electrically controlled waste gates and some other things.  Good times.

On Sun, Oct 25, 2020, 1:27 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Good work on getting the heater core back in.  
As I recall that seal around the top is pretty stiff from the factory.

That ground is important.
The wiper motor is a pretty heavy draw.
When I grounded my underhood lights I found mine had vibration cracked many strands.
It goes under the intake manifold bolt, second from the back on that side.

Tell me again what's up with starting your truck?

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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[kramttocs]

Exciting news on the newer F150!

No, the factory (key word here) cruise control isn't hacked or spliced in. The 86 should have the vss down at the transmission.

I think the photo may not be showing the cut part.

That thicker yellow wire is the primary cab power source.
C610 will be a good connector to get familiar with and understand.

See here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/charge--power-distribution---gasoline-engines.html

[kramttocs]

The wires that used to connect to the mega alternator ( hinted at previously) are found severed

You may have already covered this but 'used to'? Or used to connect to the factory alt before the new mega one was added that went directly to the battery switch?

[ArdWrknTrk]

C610 passes main power to the cab by way of the large yellow wire
Ignition (key on) power back to the voltage regulator by the lt.green/red wire.
Power to and from the ammeter by the red and orange wires.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Scott, I'm willing to bet by "mega alternator" he means the 200A L-N  that Ambulance package cutaway chassis leave the factory with.

[kramttocs]

Thanks Jim. Went back to page 3 and caught back up.

[Westerj]

Lousy pic. Sorry!!

Here is a better one.. 

That round connector at bottom of pic seems to go nowhere.

There is a fusible link back to the relay. 

Didn't see any fat gage wires from starter relay towards dash, but big power might come out of the console relay by seats instead.  Ima reading about C610 wires.  Thx for pointer. 

On Sun, Oct 25, 2020, 9:23 PM kramttocs [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

The wires that used to connect to the mega alternator ( hinted at previously) are found severed

You may have already covered this but 'used to'? Or used to connect to the factory alt before the new mega one was added that went directly to the battery switch?

Scott
Daily driver: 'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
Work truck: 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/T18 - Gin Pole
Various parts trucks

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[Westerj]

Whoever put the new alternator in ran a huge copper wire to its power out stud. In recent picture, the fat red cable with disintegrating cover heads over to alternator.   Might just

Rip out the console, the automated power switch and put it back together. How do most vehicles handle dual batteries? Would an under hood knife switch work better.

On Sun, Oct 25, 2020, 9:23 PM kramttocs [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

The wires that used to connect to the mega alternator ( hinted at previously) are found severed

You may have already covered this but 'used to'? Or used to connect to the factory alt before the new mega one was added that went directly to the battery switch?

Scott
Daily driver: 'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
Work truck: 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/T18 - Gin Pole
Various parts trucks

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[ArdWrknTrk]

If going manual, I personally like a racing style 1/4 turn switch.
They are readily available, easily to install, inexpensive and certainly rated for the application with plenty of safety.

Afaik, every racing class requires them now.