1986 F350/460 ambulance reprovision

[ArdWrknTrk]

What does the knob say?

"Stop engine before engaging ????"

Is that throttle up for a PTO or something??

[ArdWrknTrk]

The plugs are NAPA 131X6

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WH_131X6

Not brass, but dichromate plated steel.

[Westerj]

Crows foot line wrench. Dang. Did you take off  tube nut, and leave adapter in manifold,  or put plug into manifold?

Ty

On Wed, Aug 19, 2020, 11:45 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

I used an oxy/acetylene torch and a crows foot line wrench on enough extension to reach them.
They all came out leaving clean threads (clean enough to plug)

Let me go see if I can find that bag.

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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NAML

[Westerj]

Ty.

[Westerj]

Stop engine before turning battery off. 

On Wed, Aug 19, 2020, 11:48 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

What does the knob say?

"Stop engine before engaging ????"

Is that throttle up for a PTO or something??

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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[ArdWrknTrk]

I'll take a picture for you tomorrow.

I needed some line wrenches for other things (like the steering box) so I got a cheap set.
I think they're Performance Tool or another Taiwanese company.  No complaints... and I'm not easy on tools.
I don't deliberately abuse them.

I did have those fittings cherry before I put a wrench to them.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So, that's just the aux bat disconnect?

 Interesting!

[FuzzFace2]

Did the truck have a throttle up?
A lot of them did because at idle and all the lights on, AC, etc. it would kill the batteries other wise.

That is a real rats nest in there LOL
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's why I asked.
It looks VERY similar.

I don't see any rats nest. (I think he's taken care of that!  )
But I do see a beautiful bowl of electron spaghetti!

[Westerj]

Interesting.... Don't know about the switch for throttle up, but did see cruise control linkage disconnected ... suspect alt burned out replaced with 60A unit .. Did 3 wire Alternator handle the low RPM current better than a 1 wire setup?

The AC compressor seems oversized for cooling the ambulance box... guessing?  What's the preferred source for ac refrigerant lines? Parts store or just have em fabbed up by hose shop?   Likely switch to current refrigerant?   What's also typically replaced during a catastrophic disassembly (open lines for a day)? Was it the drier gets renewed?  

On Thu, Aug 20, 2020, 11:17 AM FuzzFace2 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Did the truck have a throttle up?
A lot of them did because at idle and all the lights on, AC, etc. it would kill the batteries other wise.

That is a real rats nest in there LOL
Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

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[ArdWrknTrk]

Some trucks have a throttle positioner just like an AC kicker, but with the flatbeds I'm used to there's a knob so you can set it just where you want.

The later 3G definitely out performs any one wire (GM) style alternator.
If you're talking about a 1G alternator with separate wires for field, stator and charge, yes it is better at idle than an alternator that has to self excite.

If you're not playing mix and match across generations of compressor, condenser and evaporator you're best to get stock lines.
If you need odd fittings to fit different components then you'll need to have them made up.
If you're using R-134 (or something else) you need the proper orifice tube.

While many people and most shops would replace the drier, that's not to say it can't be flushed and reclaimed under vacuum.
If the pump disintegrated I'd replace all components as a matter of course.
But, I'm not sure what you mean by "catastrophic"

[Westerj]

Catastrophic  as in - the system open to the air for a day.  Who knows what gets where!!  Or just reassemble the pipe circuit,  pump down, refill with current refrigerant, dye and lubricant... 

On Thu, Aug 20, 2020, 11:45 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Some trucks have a throttle positioned just like an AC kicker, but with the flatbed I'm used to there's a knob so you can set it just where you want.

The later 3G definitely out performs any one wire (GM) style alternator.
If you're talking about a 1G alternator with separate wires for field, stator and charge, yes it is better at idle than an alternator that has to self excite.

If you're not playing mix and match across generations of compressor, condenser and evaporator you're best to get stock lines.
If you need odd fittings to fit different components then you'll need to have them made up.
If you're using R-134 (or something else) you need the proper orifice tube.

While many people and most shops would replace the drier, that's not to say it can't be flushed and reclaimed under vacuum.
If the pump disintegrated I'd replace all components as a matter of course.
But, I'm not sure what you mean by "catastrophic"

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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[ArdWrknTrk]

I doubt you've had any mud daubers build a nest in there!

While perhaps it would have been wise to plug or tape the open circuit I don't think any permanent harm's been done in a day.
A flush with gas line antifreeze (99.9% isopropyl) and then holding under vacuum should clear any moisture.

I need to qualify this by stating that I am NO refrigeration mechanic, and though this is how 'I' would proceed, it is by no means necessarily the 'proper' way.

There are plenty of members here that have much more real world experience than I do, and if you want a definitive answer I would certainly defer to their better judgement.

[Westerj]

Rats not resolved... when i have lights in box, and non ford looms removed, ill be happier.

On Thu, Aug 20, 2020, 11:21 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

That's why I asked.
It looks VERY similar.

I don't see any rats nest. (I think he's taken care of that!  )
But I do see a beautiful bowl of electron spaghetti!

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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NAML

[ArdWrknTrk]

So, what are you thinking for lights in back?

I've been a big proponent of budget LED lighting and with wise choices haven't been disappointed yet.

Glad to hear you're making progress with the rodent population, even if they haven't been decimated yet.
Keep at it. Because they will keep breeding, and you don't want to know the exponential possibilities of that.

[Westerj]

Thinking 4 x led floodlights ... magnets on back to allow moving. Switch near entry point.

One more led under hood. 

Went to remove cowl last night. Trim strip at base of hood disintegrated... saw back of hood had been interfering with cowl on opening hood. Common thing with bullnose beasties??

Saw meyal covers over vents by drivers and passengers feet. They likely contain bags of money right?? I mean loads of rodent nests for soup?

On Thu, Aug 20, 2020, 1:44 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

So, what are you thinking for lights in back?

I've been a big proponent of budget LED lighting and with wise choices haven't been disappointed yet.

Glad to hear you're making progress with the rodent population, even if they haven't been decimated yet.
Keep at it. Because they will keep breeding, and you don't want to know the exponential possibilities of that.

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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NAML

[Westerj]

These look appealing, though not us made.  Any similar stuff made in US??

Will pay double for us product, but not 10x.

On Thu, Aug 20, 2020, 2:02 PM Westerj [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Thinking 4 x led floodlights ... magnets on back to allow moving. Switch near entry point.

One more led under hood. 

Went to remove cowl last night. Trim strip at base of hood disintegrated... saw back of hood had been interfering with cowl on opening hood. Common thing with bullnose beasties??

Saw meyal covers over vents by drivers and passengers feet. They likely contain bags of money right?? I mean loads of rodent nests for soup?

On Thu, Aug 20, 2020, 1:44 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

So, what are you thinking for lights in back?

I've been a big proponent of budget LED lighting and with wise choices haven't been disappointed yet.

Glad to hear you're making progress with the rodent population, even if they haven't been decimated yet.
Keep at it. Because they will keep breeding, and you don't want to know the exponential possibilities of that.

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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NAML

1986 f350 Ambulance convert
2WD
project phase
460 v8
Low miles

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[kramttocs]

Westerj wrote

Saw meyal covers over vents by drivers and passengers feet. They likely
contain bags of money right?? I mean loads of rodent nests for soup?

If you find bags of money there OR come up with a way to make money from what is normally found behind those covers you will have a lot of new best friends

It's definitely recommended to pull those covers and clear out the gunk that has accumulated over the years from falling through the cowl slots. Not only for moisture concerns but also because it can pile up enough to get pulled into the fan and sit against the resistor which has often been a cause for smoke and a possible fire.

Underneath the likely gunk you'll find there is a duck bill drain plug you will want to ensure is clean. Some people remove them completely. I've always heard they are there to keep rodents out but maybe in your case they are keeping the rodents in?

On the A/C, I am also no expert and have only recently messed with it but I would consider replacing the dryer/accumulator and the orifice tube. Pulling the orifice tube will give you a decent idea of what kind of shape the system is in. All together I think these two pieces are under $30.

[Westerj]

Awesome info.. ac at some point.

Thibk ill try to break free the thermactor trees... if i get em all off...  without crows foot line wrenches

Did find a 15mm snap on bluepoint combination wrench. Metric?? Really??

 need to get wyze camera on the traps... see how many are high fiving after a meal.

On Thu, Aug 20, 2020, 2:27 PM kramttocs [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Westerj wrote

Saw meyal covers over vents by drivers and passengers feet. They likely
contain bags of money right?? I mean loads of rodent nests for soup?

If you find bags of money there OR come up with a way to make money from what is normally found behind those covers you will have a lot of new best friends

It's definitely recommended to pull those covers and clear out the gunk that has accumulated over the years from falling through the cowl slots. Not only for moisture concerns but also because it can pile up enough to get pulled into the fan and sit against the resistor which has often been a cause for smoke and a possible fire.

Underneath the likely gunk you'll find there is a duck bill drain plug you will want to ensure is clean. Some people remove them completely. I've always heard they are there to keep rodents out but maybe in your case they are keeping the rodents in?

On the A/C, I am also no expert and have only recently messed with it but I would consider replacing the dryer/accumulator and the orifice tube. Pulling the orifice tube will give you a decent idea of what kind of shape the system is in. All together I think these two pieces are under $30.

Scott
Daily driver: 'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
Work truck: 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/T18 - Gin Pole
Various parts trucks

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[ArdWrknTrk]

The cowl seal is often disintegrating, and can lead to water in the engine via the air cleaner lid.
Gary and have a write-up on using an inexpensive garage door seal to replace it.

Is the interior of your box steel?
I wouldn't think so, but I guess this truck is old enough.
In that case consider a rare earth (niobium samaraium) magnet upgrade.
Skidding and dropping off as the truck hits ruts and stuff is not only inopportune, but can prove distracting.

The inner kick covers lead to the lower cowls -opposite the drains- and are likely full of muck.
I don't know if rodents would want to be flooded out every time it rains.

Tea... Please be distinguished! We are BULLNOSE owners, not mere peasants.