1982 Bronco XLT

[Gary Lewis]

No, the gear ratio can't be determined from the VIN.  But it can be from the certification label.  Go to the page at Documentation/Specifications/Certification Label.  That shows you how to decode the whole label.  But if all you want is the axle ration go to Documentation/Specifications/Axel Ratios.

[ArdWrknTrk]

He just said that there's nothing left of the sticker but a few specks...

[Gary Lewis]

Sorry, I missed that.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

It was on the last page.......

But it is easy enough to read the axle tag.  🙂

[Weberman]

Certification label.

Guess I'll have to look on the axles for tags then since it's gone.

[Weberman]

So on the C6 overall. Is there a different modulator? I read something about an adjustable one? Is the kickdown the only thing? Should I do a shift kit?
It's been awhile since I've driven an older automatic. My Powerstroke is a manual and then my Fusion is 2010 and electronic.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Sure there are different modulators.
There are different torque converters.
The kickdown is adjustable (somewhat)

But the C6 is always slipping, and needs a healthy cooler if you are going to beat on it.
I am no automatic transmission expert.

[Weberman]

Do the different modulators help more to downshift and be worthwhile? Or just probably kickdown?

[ArdWrknTrk]

The modulator uses engine vacuum to determine load and modulates line pressures inside the transmission for shift points and band engagement.

I've installed a few B&M shift kits in my day, but I don't know what you're trying to accomplish so I can't be much help.

[Weberman]

I guess the main thing is getting it to downshift first. I'll have to see the shifts but I'm sure I'll want a kit to make them firmer.

[ArdWrknTrk]

There's a reason that it's called a kickdown rod.
If you don't have one you ought to start there.

[Weberman]

I'm guessing the previous owner just took it off then. Is there a good aftermarket one or just really anything?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I would try to find a stock rod and linkage at a junkyard.

Otherwise these guys: http://www.kickdownrods.com/     seem to have the rod and lever you need.


Lokar has a cable kit for about $100   (KD20-C6 HT)
Then you need the cable bracket for your Edelbrock carb(#1483)

[Weberman]

I'll go and see but I went to there a few weeks ago and sadly weren't many OBS up there. Idk if it's still there or would work but there was a 78/79 up there. Otherwise only 1 bullnose and it's EFI

[Weberman]

I guess we got an open 3.00 9" then.

[Gary Lewis]

Yep.  Good for cruising.  

[FuzzFace2]

Gary Lewis wrote

Yep.  Good for cruising.  

Not as good as 2.74 and over drive
But better than 3.73

Is that on the Bronco and is it the front or rear axle?
Some front axle have a different ratio than the rear.
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

Most front axles are geared higher (so they have a tendency to pull)
Like if my truck is 4.10/4.11.

I wonder what the tires are on this Bronco?
You'd think it would be going a heck of a lot faster than 65 mph on the highway with 3.0 gears.

[Weberman]

I thought about checking the front but didn't.

And we'll call the tires 33x11.5x16s. Took it for another drive today and got up to 74. Thats not floored either, I get out of it by then, but she sure takes long to get there and by the time I get there its pretty well time to shut it down to go down the hill and turn on the county road. She shakes a little bit that fast and pulls a little but expected since I replaced the steering components and haven't had it aligned.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well,. a C6 can't do 1:1, but 3.00 and 33's should give your Bronco long legs.
(At least compared to my 31.5/4:10 combo!)

I would say try manually shifting it up through the gears.
Get a feel for how long you want it to hold and hard you want it to shift.
Make sure the modulator you have now isn't leaking at all.
Install some sort of kickdown linkage.

It sounds like you are getting a better handle on it.  
Progress is good!