1982 Bronco XLT

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary is the Edelbrock expert, but judging from it being on the choke body maybe vacuum pull-off or for heated choke assist?

[Weberman]

From what I have found it is supposed to be there. It is supposed to be for the electric choke. Half say to plug it since its a leak, half say to not because it deals with the operation of the choke and is a metered leak. That could be why the idle didn't really change when I put my finger over it.

[Gary Lewis]

It is for sure supposed to be plugged.

[Weberman]

Just some RTV?

[Gary Lewis]

RTV should work, but it doesn't always hold around gasoline.  Instead of just RTV I'd use a self-tapping screw just slightly larger than the hole with thread sealant on it.  Or, if you don't have thread sealant, a bit of RTV on the threads.

[Machspeed]

I was working on my choke last night and took the picture below. My carb is a 1406 and the choke assembly pictured is what the Carb came with. Obviously, your's is not the same as mine. Thinking like Jim in that it is some kind of heated assist or a hodge-podge mix between electric and exhaust heated type choke assembly.  

[Gary Lewis]

John - You are right and I started into that in my response and then ditched it as it got complicated.

The Edelbrock electric choke kit uses that port to pull a piston as part of the vacuum pull-off.  But clearly his doesn't have that.  He just has the bimetallic spring arrangement w/o the piston.  I've not seen that, but it should work although won't have the pull-off function.

[ArdWrknTrk]

You don't have the electric choke hooked up.
You've even bent the spade over backwards.

How does your truck warm up in cold weather?  🤔

[Weberman]

Redoing the battery cables currently. Should be done today. The cable to the starter had a spot rubbed through and I just put tape on it when I found it. Finally after having the starter just click when trying to start sometimes, I decided to get rid of the horrible ground clamp and redo it all. Went with 2 AWG and it was a debate I had with myself but glad I did. 2 AWG was much bigger than anything there so, glad I didn't spend more for thicker wire. It'll be a big upgrade from a connection stand point and wire thickness.

I got the hole plugged and will probably do the smoke test tomorrow with using duct tape to seal... if the heat isn't too bad when I get off.

[Gary Lewis]

I think 2 awg is very good for these trucks, and that's what I used on Big Blue's 460.

[ArdWrknTrk]

And I have on Li'l Red.
2/0 will never be wanting when it comes to powering the starter, or anything else.

[Weberman]

Cables are in and done. Looks good and can even hear a difference with the PMGR starter. As for the smoke test still, guess I'm gonna have to get smarter. Still leaking out of the top of the carb when I do it. I tried plastic wrap first and now duct tape..twice.. I'll have to think of something.

[Gary Lewis]

Do you have a piece of wood you can use to seal the carb?  Drill a hole in it and slip it over the air cleaner stud.

[1986F150Six]

Gary Lewis wrote

Do you have a piece of wood you can use to seal the carb?  Drill a hole in it and slip it over the air cleaner stud.

That is a good idea, Gary. I was going to suggest something plastic, like a coffee can lid or ?

[Gary Lewis]

David - The plastic would seal better than wood if it doesn't bend too much.

[1986F150Six]

Or, a piece of "hard" rubber floor mat?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, something like that under a board would be good.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Uh, plastic wrap with a towel or was of rags over it, so you can press it down into the carb throat.

With a choke horn and bowl vents I don't see how a 'board' or hard rubber mat would come close to sealing anything.

[Weberman]

The choke has been the biggest pain

[1986F150Six]

How about plastic wrap over the carburetor and then place the bottom of the air cleaner housing on to seal the edges?