1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

Thanks for the alignment tips Gary. I will give it a shot this weekend and report back.

As for the Loctite in the helicoil from my understanding the general consensus is that you remove all the grease or oil from the threads and insert the helicoil dry. If you desire you can put Loctite on the bolt if required or desired but it seems most posts I read said not to put them on the helicoil itself before installing.

Gary Lewis wrote

Glad the air bag worked.

As for alignment, I've been told that you work from the back to the front.  The bed is bolted to the frame so is the reference and you align the cab to it.  Get the gap the same on both sides and when you tighten the mount bolts down you use them to get the creases aligned so that when you sight down them they continue from the front of the cab to the rear of the bed.

Then you adjust the fenders to the cab, aligning the creases there.

As for the helicoil, did you stake it or put it in with red Loctite?  That makes sure it won't turn w/in the washer.

[Jonathan]

I worked on the truck most of the day Saturday. I jacked up the passenger side and removed the bushings and hardware. I decided not to do the full paint restore like I usually do and just clean it up some and put back in. The nut end of the bushing hardware is still soaking in rust solution and I will treat it with corrosion inhibitor spray before tightening down to spec. The passenger side radiator mount had different spacers in it from the drivers side. Instead of one big washer it had four thinner ones. After all is said and done I may need to go back and fine tune the shims as needed.

[Gary Lewis]

Progress!    (Beat you, Jim.  )

The difference in shims was to get the radiator support, and therefore the fenders, aligned.  You may or may not have to go back to the same ones depending on how things tighten down.

[Jonathan]

Before I install the bolt in the rear of the cab I needed to take care of the rust. I decided to grind away all the loose rust to bare metal and spray on corrosion inhibitor just where the bolt is for now. I can paint the rest of cab floor later. I just didn't want anything more rusting away under the washer where I couldn't get it. The factory washer for the rear cab is smaller but I will replace with a bigger one to help spread out the load since the metal is pitted and thinner then before. There is a rusted out thin metal cover on the floor that will need need to see if I can get a replacement or fabricate one. The screw was rusted out so I removed it with some special pliers that grips the head perfect.

[Jonathan]

I got the new bushings in but after struggling for hours to get the cab lined up I stopped for the day. Sometimes you need to step away to think about what you are doing. I believe I was fighting myself because the 1/2 ratchet extension in the front drivers side cab mount does not have enough wiggle room like the 7/16 bolt. So I kept trying to pull the passenger side back and couldn't. I even used a ratchet strap with no luck. I planned to go back to work on it on Sunday to see if it was the ratchet extension causing the problem but after cutting the grass and grocery shopping I was too beat.

[Jonathan]

The whole cab is twisted when you remove the bolts. I am thinking after I start to tighten them up it may change the alignment of the cab some. It is going to be a lot of back and forth and bumping to get everything right. I will just need to tighten each bolt a little at a time and keep checking alignment. Not really looking forward to that. I felt like a linebacker on Saturday having to keep shoulder bumping the cab trying to get it in position.

Gary Lewis wrote

Progress!    (Beat you, Jim.  )

The difference in shims was to get the radiator support, and therefore the fenders, aligned.  You may or may not have to go back to the same ones depending on how things tighten down.

[rcarlisle]

Jonathan wrote

The whole cab is twisted when you remove the bolts.

I have a lot of thoughts when you say that.   Is the cab twisting or is it relative to where the frame is currently?   IS there a way in your driveway to make sure the frame is "squared up" as it sits?  

Or maybe I'm overthinking it?  

Good luck.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

The frame is always going to flex. That's why there are resilient mounts, and the members are riveted.
I've seen trucks tear themselves apart when some tinkerer decides to "improve" things or get rid of a creak by welding.

Yeah, ideally you would park on a flat slab.
(Anyone want to talk about things like the floor in Boeing's assembly buildings?  🤔)




😂

[Jonathan]

The driveway it fairly level side to side, just it is slanted down. The rear of the truck is on wheels but the front is on jack stands and may not be level side to side. I will focus on the distance between the cab and the truck bed and cinch everything down and hope for the best. I can always fine tune once it is running and parked on a flat surface. Just will need to loosen the fuel tank and move it to the side and loosen all the bolts again.

rcarlisle wrote

Jonathan wrote

The whole cab is twisted when you remove the bolts.

I have a lot of thoughts when you say that.   Is the cab twisting or is it relative to where the frame is currently?   IS there a way in your driveway to make sure the frame is "squared up" as it sits?  

Or maybe I'm overthinking it?  

Good luck.

[Jonathan]

My garage is fairly level. Just not sure if I can get both sets of wheels inside. I would have to clean up the garage a lot. I can't even park a car in there right now. If I can get the cab square to the truck bed I think everything else may take care of itself I hope. As long as it is torqued to spec to the truck frame. As you mentioned I guess it is designed to flex. Bend or break as they say.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

The frame is always going to flex. That's why there are resilient mounts, and the members are riveted.
I've seen trucks tear themselves apart when some tinkerer decides to "improve" things or get rid of a creak by welding.

Yeah, ideally you would park on a flat slab.
(Anyone want to talk about things like the floor in Boeing's assembly buildings?  🤔)




😂

[Gary Lewis]

I think you'll be fine tightening it down while watching the space to the bed and the alignment of the creases to those on the bed.  And, as you said, you can always adjust it again later.

[Jonathan]

Gary, can you clarify why you mean by alignment of the creases? Do you mean the body line on the bed and the cab? Is that where shims may be required?

Gary Lewis wrote

I think you'll be fine tightening it down while watching the space to the bed and the alignment of the creases to those on the bed.  And, as you said, you can always adjust it again later.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, the body lines.  But my body man said he adjusts the cab to the bed with the cab mounting bolts - tightening or loosening them to get alignment.  Then he adjusts the fenders with shims, both at the rear where they mount to the cab and on the radiator support.

[Jonathan]

Thanks for the details. I need to find a way to move the cab over more toward the passenger side. It is really hard to push. More of the cab is sticking out from the bed on the drivers side. I tried ramming it with my shoulder but it is not budging. I put the bolts in loose in the hole and removed the 1/2 extensions so its not that stopping it. I just don't have enough force.

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, the body lines.  But my body man said he adjusts the cab to the bed with the cab mounting bolts - tightening or loosening them to get alignment.  Then he adjusts the fenders with shims, both at the rear where they mount to the cab and on the radiator support.

[Gary Lewis]

If it isn't going to line up I think I'd bolt it down and drive it to some place more level.  Then adjust it there.  Perhaps you have the frame in a bind somehow and getting it on all fours and driving it might relieve that.

[Jonathan]

Thanks, I will try that after I give it another shot. I may try to lift one side with a jack and then push so there is less weight on the frame.

Gary Lewis wrote

If it isn't going to line up I think I'd bolt it down and drive it to some place more level.  Then adjust it there.  Perhaps you have the frame in a bind somehow and getting it on all fours and driving it might relieve that.

[Jonathan]

The threaded part of the bushing hardware finished its 24 hour rust soaking. After cleaning up I sprayed on rust protection. Now I just need to get the cab lined up and tighten it down. Sounds easy in words but in reality I am struggling with it.

I also treated the drivers side pass through for the rear cab mount. It is ready to install the bolt and oversized fender washer. At a later date the whole floor will be cleaned, rust removed and prepped for sound isolation matting.

More brittle door molding came off again. I need to order all new seals because the cab gets soaked inside every time it rains.

[Jonathan]

What is the distance spec between the cab and the bed? Is it 1.30 inches or 1.58 inches? And what does the number above it mean?

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1985-body-builders.html

[Gary Lewis]

Looks like 1.30"/33mm for the top of the box, and 1.58"/40mm at the bottom.  I tried measuring those dimensions on Big Blue, but it ain't easy.  However, they are different, top and bottom.

[Jonathan]

Great thanks! That gives me a good starting point. At least I have a rough goal now.

Gary Lewis wrote

Looks like 1.30"/33mm for the top of the box, and 1.58"/40mm at the bottom.  I tried measuring those dimensions on Big Blue, but it ain't easy.  However, they are different, top and bottom.