1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[FuzzFace2]

Jonathan wrote

Before I put everything back together in the front drivers side I need to replace the body mounts. I will put the front mount back in first then remove the cab mount. I thought at first the bolt went into the cab but it is actually part of the frame under the cab. This will be fun to try and get a wrench in that small hole to keep the bolt from moving.

I did not need to get a wrench on that nut for the cab mounts they came right out after spraying them down for weeks.
Dave ----

[mat in tn]

is there some reason that you did not remove the floor plug and get right to it with a ratchet?

[FuzzFace2]

mat in tn wrote

is there some reason that you did not remove the floor plug and get right to it with a ratchet?

Maybe he did not want to pull up the door sills, kick panels and the rug?
But that is the way you get to the bolt.
Dave ----

[Jonathan]

It might be fun to play with. Replace worn components, clean up the case, make a new sticker for the top and re-pot it. Not sure if I can get new connectors for it or not. If I recall correctly they might have a broken lock tab.

FuzzFace2 wrote

Jonathan wrote

My old brain box still works and I want to keep it as a backup. I wonder what replacement brain juice I can put in? It looks like it just prevents the board from corrosion and maybe heat dissipation.

FuzzFace2 wrote

My box also leaked down the liner and dripped on the house garage floor where the truck is parked and it will not come off the floor

I dont remember what I used on the plastic but may have been a putty knife?
Then maybe thinner to wipe what was left off?
I got as much of it as I could as my truck is all together and was not pulling it apart to wash this.
Dave ----

Mine still worked also and is a back up but I dont keep it in the truck as I dont need it leaking more inside it.
I would not even look into trying to re-potting it.

The reason I replaced it was I thought it was a cause for truck to jerk and the dash turn lights to flash at the same time. It did not fix the issue and have since found the AC compressor kicking on & off really fast, low on charge.
Dave ----

[Jonathan]

That whole thing just baffled me yesterday. No mater what I did I could not get it to spin off from the nut side on the bottom. I had to turn the bolt at the top only. Just does not make sense to me as to why.


I did not need to get a wrench on that nut for the cab mounts they came right out after spraying them down for weeks.
Dave ----

[FuzzFace2]

Jonathan wrote

That whole thing just baffled me yesterday. No mater what I did I could not get it to spin off from the nut side on the bottom. I had to turn the bolt at the top only. Just does not make sense to me as to why.

I did not need to get a wrench on that nut for the cab mounts they came right out after spraying them down for weeks.
Dave ----


I did not pull mine apart or replace them but my guess is that nut is made as part of the washer and the tube that runs inside the rubber bushings that is then put through the frame. Then the other half of the rubber bushing is put on the top of the tube and another washer. The bolt then is put down through the assy. and tighten till the assy gets tight. You cant go to tight as the assy. stops when the tube hits the upper washer I think.

The bushing is king of a press fit and why a jig needs to be used the get the bushings off the frame.
Because of the press fit is why the bottom nut / washer / tube dose not spin when undoing the bolt from the top. You know I dont remember even looking at the nuts on the bottom if they would spin when undoing them.
Good to hear they came off with no issues.
Dave ----

[Jonathan]

Actually I did not even see that access cover until I stuck my phone inside the hole. The inspection camera has a very narrow field of view and I did not notice it at first. But after I saw the access port was covered by carpet I was not ready to start pulling apart the interior to access it. So I did the right thing and just cut up my hand 100 times on sharp screws protruding out from inside the cab trying to get at the bolt though the small opening. After getting the bolt loose after what seemed like hours I couldn't remove it because not enough head room. So I went in the cab and started to pull on the carpet a little. The carpet was damp and torn and it unzipped like a zipper back so I just went with it.

mat in tn wrote

is there some reason that you did not remove the floor plug and get right to it with a ratchet?

[Jonathan]

You got it exactly right after I discovered it was there. But later I found out the carpet was ruined anyway so just yanked it back.

FuzzFace2 wrote

mat in tn wrote

is there some reason that you did not remove the floor plug and get right to it with a ratchet?

Maybe he did not want to pull up the door sills, kick panels and the rug?
But that is the way you get to the bolt.
Dave ----

[Jonathan]

Interesting you mention that it is a press fit because this is what I am stuck on now. I need to make a jig to get the nut and plate off. It looks like the nut is welded to the washer on the bottom and somehow it is stuck on. I tried prying on it with a pry bar and it won't come off the rubber. The instructions mention making a puller assembly to remove it. I will try that later and report back.

FuzzFace2 wrote

Jonathan wrote

That whole thing just baffled me yesterday. No mater what I did I could not get it to spin off from the nut side on the bottom. I had to turn the bolt at the top only. Just does not make sense to me as to why.

I did not need to get a wrench on that nut for the cab mounts they came right out after spraying them down for weeks.
Dave ----

I did not pull mine apart or replace them but my guess is that nut is made as part of the washer and the tube that runs inside the rubber bushings that is then put through the frame. Then the other half of the rubber bushing is put on the top of the tube and another washer. The bolt then is put down through the assy. and tighten till the assy gets tight. You cant go to tight as the assy. stops when the tube hits the upper washer I think.

The bushing is king of a press fit and why a jig needs to be used the get the bushings off the frame.
Because of the press fit is why the bottom nut / washer / tube dose not spin when undoing the bolt from the top. You know I dont remember even looking at the nuts on the bottom if they would spin when undoing them.
Good to hear they came off with no issues.
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

I notice the factory bolts have a rather large radius under the head.
Suspect this is what anchors the bushings together.

I ended up just cutting through the mount and sleeve because it's all garbage anyhow.
You seem to be far more dedicated to doing things correctly than I am.  

[rcarlisle]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I notice the factory bolts have a rather large radius under the head.
Suspect this is what anchors the bushings together.

I ended up just cutting through the mount and sleeve because it's all garbage anyhow.
You seem to be far more dedicated to doing things correctly than I am.  

Jim,

I've told him this numerous times.  LOL

[Jonathan]

Do you not need to reuse the sleeve? The one in the front radiator mount was able to be used again but not in the best shape. It is threaded inside. I am going to try again to pry it out using the bushing manufactures recommendation.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I notice the factory bolts have a rather large radius under the head.
Suspect this is what anchors the bushings together.

I ended up just cutting through the mount and sleeve because it's all garbage anyhow.
You seem to be far more dedicated to doing things correctly than I am.  

[Jonathan]

Hey now, I have been know to be a bit of a rebel. Between you, me and the internet I once tightened a bolt without using a torque wrench when nobody was looking.

rcarlisle wrote

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I notice the factory bolts have a rather large radius under the head.
Suspect this is what anchors the bushings together.

I ended up just cutting through the mount and sleeve because it's all garbage anyhow.
You seem to be far more dedicated to doing things correctly than I am.  

Jim,

I've told him this numerous times.  LOL

[ArdWrknTrk]

I live in the salty northeast.
There was nothing worth keeping.  
I ended up making my own frame savers and welding them in a few places.

[Jonathan]

It must really stink to live up north with all that salt and rust.

I made some crude drawings of the specs for the radiator body mount bushing hardware if anyone wants to make it out of stainless. I cleaned them up and used everything again except the old bolt. I didn't do a drawing of the insert yet. Here are the specs and the order of installation.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I live in the salty northeast.
There was nothing worth keeping.  
I ended up making my own frame savers and welding them in a few places.

[Gary Lewis]

Wow!  Looks really good!  You do good work.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Actually I like getting cold and snow.
The leaves fall, the birds fly away and the bears hibernate.
But the slush, sand and salt on the roads is really harsh on vehicles.

Stainless in contact with an electrolyte just causes whatever it touches to corrode faster. (More nobility on the galvanic scale)
It's okay for a rubber insulated washer or something you want to keep polishing I suppose.

I have a couple of those folding plastic tables.
Ingenious that you are using it as a spray paint rack.  🧐

[Jonathan]

Thanks Gary, it is great to hear from you! Hope all has been well.

Gary Lewis wrote

Wow!  Looks really good!  You do good work.  

[Jonathan]

I am glad you mentioned the stainless reaction. I was wondering about that because I ordered a stainless bolt to replace the one I couldn't extend the threads on properly. Hopefully the corrosion prevention coating will help insulate it.

I use the folding table as a paint stand much more then it is used at a table.

Now back to that bolt I purchased at Advanced Auto. The threads didn't extend down far enough so I thought I would just extend it with a die. But for some reason the threads didn't go on right and the bolt would get stuck unless you really tried to force it. After working on it for hours I gave up and ordered a stainless bolt from Amazon. I also ordered a stainless nut that should come today. I could force it on but I don't want to damage the bushing insert that is not easy to find a replacement for.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Actually I like getting cold and snow.
The leaves fall, the birds fly away and the bears hibernate.
But the slush, sand and salt on the roads is really harsh on vehicles.

Stainless in contact with an electrolyte just causes whatever it touches to corrode faster. (More nobility on the galvanic scale)
It's okay for a rubber insulated washer or something you want to keep polishing I suppose.

I have a couple of those folding plastic tables.
Ingenious that you are using it as a spray paint rack.  🧐

[ArdWrknTrk]

As I said corrosion is only an issue if electrolytes like salt water get between dissimilar metals.
Stainless on stainless tends to gall and seize when tightened.. (I usually lube with PST)

But I have stainless screws holding my whole engine together. (externally)
They all still have good heads and don't seem to have hurt the block.
Those exhaust manifold fasteners really get destroyed quickly when made of regular steel.

Maybe the bolt you are trying to thread is just too tough for the die you are using?
Maybe Ford specs a different bolt than DIN or ISO?
It's certainly good you've checked before just running it in with an impact from under the truck.