1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[FuzzFace2]

Ok you can block off the the vacuum till you get the Tee but right now it is not plugged off.
You have vacuum still coming from the PCV to the Tee and you have 1 side plugged but you still have full vacuum to the canister(s).
You need to plug it off at the PCV.

Now that I get looking at with out the purge valve to only open at a certain time when not at a idle.
So you will need to put a restriction in the line close to the PCV like I did but even a smaller jet.
What I plan on doing when I put my system back together is get a Tee made for different size hose that you cut the ends for the size hose that will go on it.
The side of the Tee going to the PCV I will not cut the end so it should have a smaller opening and if it dose not I can melt the end closed and use a small drill bit to make a small hole.

BTW you can find the Tee I talk of on the wall at Auto Zone and for that brass one you ordered the hard ware stores have it around here.
Dave ----

[FuzzFace2]

In this picture and think others I have seen you have the metal fuel line in a clip that I think is on the air filter assy. right?
If so the metal line is not held by that clip. The rubber hose I think going to the flapper valve on the snorkel goes into that clip.
The fuel line just runs across the valve cover and would be longer where a short hose then goes from the metal line to the fuel filter screwed into the carb.

My screw in filter takes a flare fitting line and has a 90* bend. I then have a 2nd filter that has hose nipples at both ends. This fits where your longish rubber hose is and I use 2 short hoses to fit it to the metal line prom the pump.

Dave ----

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

In this picture and think others I have seen you have the metal fuel line in a clip that I think is on the air filter assy. right?
If so the metal line is not held by that clip. The rubber hose I think going to the flapper valve on the snorkel goes into that clip.
The fuel line just runs across the valve cover and would be longer where a short hose then goes from the metal line to the fuel filter screwed into the carb.

My screw in filter takes a flare fitting line and has a 90* bend. I then have a 2nd filter that has hose nipples at both ends. This fits where your longish rubber hose is and I use 2 short hoses to fit it to the metal line prom the pump.

Dave ----

I looked online for more pictures and found other trucks where the fuel line is held in by a metal piece or bracket.  One truck held on a rubber hose and the fuel line at the same time.  My truck came like that but I don't know if it was like that from the factory or not.  Here are some pictures I found.

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

Ok you can block off the the vacuum till you get the Tee but right now it is not plugged off.
You have vacuum still coming from the PCV to the Tee and you have 1 side plugged but you still have full vacuum to the canister(s).
You need to plug it off at the PCV.

Now that I get looking at with out the purge valve to only open at a certain time when not at a idle.
So you will need to put a restriction in the line close to the PCV like I did but even a smaller jet.
What I plan on doing when I put my system back together is get a Tee made for different size hose that you cut the ends for the size hose that will go on it.
The side of the Tee going to the PCV I will not cut the end so it should have a smaller opening and if it dose not I can melt the end closed and use a small drill bit to make a small hole.

BTW you can find the Tee I talk of on the wall at Auto Zone and for that brass one you ordered the hard ware stores have it around here.
Dave ----

I have the whole line removed right now.  It doesn't really matter at this point because the truck is not running yet. But I will get it sorted before running.  Hopefully I can find the parts at a salvage yard or eBay.

[Jonathan]

I found a better drawing in my service manual.

[Jonathan]

Jonathan wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

Ok you can block off the the vacuum till you get the Tee but right now it is not plugged off.
You have vacuum still coming from the PCV to the Tee and you have 1 side plugged but you still have full vacuum to the canister(s).
You need to plug it off at the PCV.

Now that I get looking at with out the purge valve to only open at a certain time when not at a idle.
So you will need to put a restriction in the line close to the PCV like I did but even a smaller jet.
What I plan on doing when I put my system back together is get a Tee made for different size hose that you cut the ends for the size hose that will go on it.
The side of the Tee going to the PCV I will not cut the end so it should have a smaller opening and if it dose not I can melt the end closed and use a small drill bit to make a small hole.

BTW you can find the Tee I talk of on the wall at Auto Zone and for that brass one you ordered the hard ware stores have it around here.
Dave ----

I have the whole line removed right now.  It doesn't really matter at this point because the truck is not running yet. But I will get it sorted before running.  Hopefully I can find the parts at a salvage yard or eBay.

Funny in California it goes direct from the PCV to the Tee but looks like an electric component is in between. I think it is called a Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid. But I don't have the electrical connection and don't know what activates it. I don't understand why California emissions would be more simple in this case.

[rcarlisle]

Someone asked earlier about why vacuum lines are not done correctly.  They are so confusing and we don't understand them completely.  I'm trying to follow along but it's very confusing.  

Y'all keep up the good work.  This will become THE resource for the 4.9 vacuum layout.  

Jonathan, a good mapping when you get it completed would probably be something Gary could archive.  Plus the insights from the contributors to this part of the thread.  

[FuzzFace2]

I see the clip is on the valve cover and not the air filter assembly like I thought
Guess you are right.

If you have the under hood vacuum line sticker it's not hard to follow.
If Jonathan has all the parts, mainly the purge valve, then shouldn't be too hard to run the lines.
Dave   ----

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

Someone asked earlier about why vacuum lines are not done correctly.  They are so confusing and we don't understand them completely.  I'm trying to follow along but it's very confusing.  

Y'all keep up the good work.  This will become THE resource for the 4.9 vacuum layout.  

Jonathan, a good mapping when you get it completed would probably be something Gary could archive.  Plus the insights from the contributors to this part of the thread.

I will document it the best I can and summarize in simple terms if possible in the end. But my theory for vacuum line deletion is a fix quick cause and effect. It is a band aid to compensate for other issues in the carburetor or such. You block off this line and it runs better. But the root cause of the issue was never addressed.

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

I see the clip is on the valve cover and not the air filter assembly like I thought
Guess you are right.

If you have the under hood vacuum line sticker it's not hard to follow.
If Jonathan has all the parts, mainly the purge valve, then shouldn't be too hard to run the lines.
Dave   ----

Thanks Dave, I think the purge valve is not hard to find on eBay but I am having trouble isolating what it is connected to it. It looks like more then just vacuum lines. It appears to be a connection of sorts. I wish I could find some good pictures of a complete and accurate truck.

[Jonathan]

I ran into another delay installing the fuel tank. Inline Tube got back to me yesterday. I thought they forgot about me and I would have to just run with the short line but they said the line tech found an alternate pattern that matches my original and will whip one up for me and ship it out. So I don't want to install the tank and remove it again so going to hold off for now. I may try to start the truck from a gas can because I really want to hear it run for the first time for some motivation.

[FuzzFace2]

Yours is a vacuum purge and not electric or right?
Let me look at my sticker when I get home to see if I can shed some light on this.
Oh I don't have any purge valve or I would take a picture or 2.
Dave. ----

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

Yours is a vacuum purge and not electric or right?
Let me look at my sticker when I get home to see if I can shed some light on this.
Oh I don't have any purge valve or I would take a picture or 2.
Dave. ----

I think mine is a vacuum purge because not California Emissions model. I don't recall seeing any vacuum solenoid.

Thanks for checking your sticker when you get a chance.

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

Yours is a vacuum purge and not electric or right?
Let me look at my sticker when I get home to see if I can shed some light on this.
Oh I don't have any purge valve or I would take a picture or 2.
Dave. ----

I found a picture of your vacuum diagram in the link in your signature.  Also I see your PCV was blocked off like mine.  Do you mind if I share the picture here?

[Jonathan]

So far from what I can tell I need these two parts. Does anyone know what the full part number would be? I am starting to think that bundle connected to the purge valve is just vacuum lines and maybe another tee wire tied together and not another part.

12A245 Two Way Delay Valve
9B963 Canister Purge Valve

[Gary Lewis]

The way to find the part numbers you need is to determine the calibration code for your truck, which then gives you the calibration parts list.

To do that, go to Documentation/CALIBRATION INFO & PART #'S and read the intro.  Perhaps you have the calibration code on the valve cover?  If not, go to the Application To Parts List tab.  There you'll find a bunch of #'s for various trucks and you can get it down to a short list of #'s for your truck based on the various parameters.

Then go to the Parts Lists tab and scroll down to those lists and compare them.  You may find that they all use the same delay and purge valves, which will answer your question(s).

[ArdWrknTrk]

I didn't realize that the 4.9 had a second canister on the outside of the frame rail. 💡

It looks like you would use 9B999 as well.
I'm going to assume this is the three port connector.

I was definitely wrong in thinking you had the solenoid you show for California.
Later 4.9's had a bank of solenoids stop the valve cover.
I guess these are what I have seen. But obviously I haven't seen it all.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

The way to find the part numbers you need is to determine the calibration code for your truck, which then gives you the calibration parts list.

To do that, go to Documentation/CALIBRATION INFO & PART #'S and read the intro.  Perhaps you have the calibration code on the valve cover?  If not, go to the Application To Parts List tab.  There you'll find a bunch of #'s for various trucks and you can get it down to a short list of #'s for your truck based on the various parameters.

Then go to the Parts Lists tab and scroll down to those lists and compare them.  You may find that they all use the same delay and purge valves, which will answer your question(s).

Thanks for the info, I will try and figure that out.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I didn't realize that the 4.9 had a second canister on the outside of the frame rail. 💡

It looks like you would use 9B999 as well.
I'm going to assume this is the three port connector.

I was definitely wrong in thinking you had the solenoid you show for California.
Later 4.9's had a bank of solenoids stop the valve cover.
I guess these are what I have seen. But obviously I haven't seen it all.

I have not seen a second canister yet on my truck.  I need to check again.

I couldn't find anything when I looked up 9B999 online yesterday with a picture of what it looks like or a way to order it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm just reading the notes in the upper right hand corner of fig.9. (Which is a challenge on my phone)
We've already determined you don't have the California system with a solenoid.