1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well that's because oil floats on water, but the water caused the rust in the bottom of the can.

The question is why would water OR oil be in the vacuum can?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Go for the plastic reservoir.
Then rust (and vacuum leaks) will never be a problem

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

I am going to guess that would be the rear axle vent line.
I think if you were to turn the hose around you will find it will fit the vent nipple on the axle.

If you look where the brake line down the frame and connects to the rubber hose to the axle there should be a nipple holding the other end of the hose to the axle and the 2 metal lines going to the wheels.
The hose fits on to the nipple and the hose goes up high like the clip on the frame.

You may want to pull the nipple to make sure it is clear and put it back in place, fit a rubber hose to it and fit a cheap fuel filter to the end. This will keep bugs & dirt out of the hose & axle.
Dave ----

Thanks for everyone's quick feedback on what my mystery line was.  The vent nipple was so plugged up I thought it was blocked off on purpose at first. After I stabbed it turned out to be dirt.  There was even dirt in the lines blocking both sides which I cleared some before I took the picture. It looks like the line broke off right at the end of the nipple.  I tried to make sure it is clear but the opening gets smaller on the inside and my pick would not go all the way though. I cleaned it off with brake cleaner and got it soaking now with Deep Creep.  I will go back and try to remove it tomorrow to make sure it is clear. Then I will replace with new vent line.











 

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Well that's because oil floats on water, but the water caused the rust in the bottom of the can.

The question is why would water OR oil be in the vacuum can?

The answer to your question is what worries me.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Go for the plastic reservoir.
Then rust (and vacuum leaks) will never be a problem

Do you have a link or part number?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Dorman 47076 is the ball reservoir used on later Ford trucks

[Jonathan]

I removed the line from the carb and cleaning up all the fittings.  I cut new line from what I had laying around that seems like a close match.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Dorman 47076 is the ball reservoir used on later Ford trucks

Thank you, do you know if the screw holes line up on the fender?  And what do I do with the other line connection that I don't use.  I only have one line going to mine.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Vigrue sells a nice set of Ottiker clamps (with crimping pliers) to keep these lines attached.

The AISN # B086ZH79PB

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Vigrue sells a nice set of Ottiker clamps (with crimping pliers) to keep these lines attached.

The AISN # B086ZH79PB

Thanks, I was wondering about that.  The factory connection looked very secure.  That kit is very affordable. Much more affordable then the one I got for CV boots. I will try my banding tool first since it cuts off the excess it should work okay.  Here is the one I have already.

BAND-IT A92079 Tie-Lok II Hand Tool
https://amzn.to/2R2HgVk

[ArdWrknTrk]

If your system has the reservoir on a tee, you could just put a vacuum cap on the other port.
Or you could run both lines to this and put it in place of the tee.

I'd imagine the rubber lines could use replacing anyhow, after 40 years.

I don't know if the holes line up.
I don't know if the later plastic inner fenders are exactly the same.
It's not as if another hole makes a difference.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Dont forget what Gary and Dave said about using a cheap lawnmower filter to keep the mud out.

My '87 truck still has the vent cap on it. But yours may not.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I would just epoxy that hose nipple back into the carb body.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

If your system has the reservoir on a tee, you could just put a vacuum cap on the other port.
Or you could run both lines to this and put it in place of the tee.

I'd imagine the rubber lines could use replacing anyhow, after 40 years.

I don't know if the holes line up.
I don't know if the later plastic inner fenders are exactly the same.
It's not as if another hole makes a difference.

Yeah all the lines are shot. I plan on replacing them all as I get to them.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Dont forget what Gary and Dave said about using a cheap lawnmower filter to keep the mud out.

My '87 truck still has the vent cap on it. But yours may not.

That is a good idea. I have a lot of extra filters because they were clearance on RockAuto and got more then I needed.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I would just epoxy that hose nipple back into the carb body.

I may do that when I have the carb on the bench during the rebuild.

[Jonathan]

I replaced the lines after cleaning up all the little bits. Does anyone know where the line where the T connection port goes to?  I can't make heads or tails of the vacuum diagram. It was not connected on my truck.

The metal coupler that connects to the carburetor is staying in so far. I think it was not in deep enough before to stay because the rubber hose was slid on too far.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Vacuum diagram is only for emissions.

Sorry, I don't know anything about how an '81 300 is plumbed.

If the can wasn't even connected maybe someone squirted oil in tryin to keep it from rusting out?

[Jonathan]

The can was connected but this T connection under the air cleaner wasn't.

On Tue, May 11, 2021, 3:21 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Vacuum diagram is only for emissions.

Sorry, I don't know anything about how an '81 300 is plumbed.

If the can wasn't even connected maybe someone squirted oil in tryin to keep it from rusting out?

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

---

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[rcarlisle]

My thought is to cap it til it can be figured out.  Even if it were to do nothing, it would keep bugs and dirt out.