1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

Yesterday after work I started to bend the pipe since I got the flaring tool in.  I made a few mistakes on the flare so the ends kept getting shorter.  The double flare on the fuel pump side looks okay but not perfectly square to the line.  I will give it a shot because I can't go any shorter without having to start over again.  For the carburetor side I did a bubble flare to help hold onto the rubber fuel line.  I couldn't find an affordable way to do a double bead or what ever it is called on the original line so I just did a bubble.  

[FuzzFace2]

As they say it looks good from my house

If it was not for the hose end I would not be able to tell the 2 apart
You done good

You know that shinny new line makes the motor look dirty
Dave ----

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

Ok the measurement I got if the line was straight is about 8 feet.
Quick measurement trying to follow the curves was about 7 feet and why if straight it would be 8 feet.
This would be what came off of my 81 flare side, they only came with 16 gallon side tanks.

So if your truck is a long bed and the line to short wonder if they got part numbers mixed up and you got a short bed line?
I know a 19 gallon side tank will not fit in place of a 16 gallon one as I tried.

Now when I added the dual tank setup from my parts truck I am pretty sure from the pump back to the valve and the valve all landed in the right place on the frame as they do make short bed style side trucks with dual tanks.
IIRC I had to shorten the rear tank line as it was for a long bed truck.

FYI IIRC the brake line to the rear had the same front lines between LB & SB trucks but the rears were different. I cant remember if I made the LB one shorter or used the SB one?
I do know I used the best of what ever I had on hand for everything.
Dave ----

I remembered to measure my old line today.  It was 7ft overall length.  Does that match yours? I was not clear on your method of measurement.  I just put a tape measure next to it as pictured below.

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

As they say it looks good from my house

If it was not for the hose end I would not be able to tell the 2 apart
You done good

You know that shinny new line makes the motor look dirty
Dave ----

Thanks Dave, I am only worried about leaking.  Hopefully the flare is close enough.  Since the line is soft metal I attached it to the new pump removed from the vehicle and tightened it down.  I am hoping that it will form to seat better just by tightening it on the pump and leaving it for a few days before I remove it again to install the pump.

[Jonathan]

Yesterday I installed clear rubber bumpers on the fuel door side to help cushion the closing more and keep the door parallel to the body of the truck. It also makes it easier to get your finger in to open the door. Inside view with the door closed also provided.

[Jonathan]

The fuel sending unit and vent was installed yesterday also.  The sending unit has a locking tab nub that lines up.  I gently tapped the locking ring with a brass hammer and brass punch until it rotated to the correct position.

[rcarlisle]

That all is looking great!  I'm thinking I may do nothing this weekend to truck.  Nothing really left - next project is AC and that's the garage and money.  If it weren't Mother's Day weekend, I'd offer to come down and help.  But all the mom's in the family expect my attendance at dinner Saturday night.  

Good luck getting it all back together.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's a new tank and sender.  What vapor are you concerned about?    

That's a great picture of the rollover valve.
Can I use it in another thread?

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

That all is looking great!  I'm thinking I may do nothing this weekend to truck.  Nothing really left - next project is AC and that's the garage and money.  If it weren't Mother's Day weekend, I'd offer to come down and help.  But all the mom's in the family expect my attendance at dinner Saturday night.  

Good luck getting it all back together.

Sometimes it is good to have a break.  I wouldn't want to torcher you by helping me.  I am too slow!

[rcarlisle]

Nah, no torture - a learning experience - see how the parts all go together and properly.  And helping someone that doesn't rush might teach me a thing or two.  

You should be close to complete on fuel delivery right?  I hope you have about all of it and it will finally go together like it should instead of all the fighting with parts you've had.  

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

It's a new tank and sender.  What vapor are you concerned about?    

That's a great picture of the rollover valve.
Can I use it in another thread?

I don't understand your question about the vapor.

You can use any pictures you like, I don't mind.  Here is a link to the parts.

40-1955
VENT VALVE-1 PORT
BRONCO 80-96

40-1241
SEAL-VENT VALVE
BRONCO 80-96

https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/gas-tanks-parts/fd-1980-96-gas-tank-and-components

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

Nah, no torture - a learning experience - see how the parts all go together and properly.  And helping someone that doesn't rush might teach me a thing or two.  

You should be close to complete on fuel delivery right?  I hope you have about all of it and it will finally go together like it should instead of all the fighting with parts you've had.

The parts issues are really demoralizing.  Inline Tube won't post my review and won't reply to me.  So I am going to move on with the one they sent me.  There will be another update post shortly on how I plan to work around the short fuel line they sent me.  The only thing left is to replace the mechanical fuel pump, install insulation on the rub points on the top of the tank.  Coat the tank with rust protection and install it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The reason to use non-working (brass or bronze) tools is to avoid spark.
And for that matter, it's fine to use a steel hammer to hit a brass punch against steel.

The only need for a brass or bronze hammer is in a restricted environment (like an explosives factory or gas plant) where BOM or insurance won't allow sparking tools at all.
They generally need to be tethered too.

Someone asked what the hole was in their gas tank.
Your photo is much better than the illustration in the MPC.

[Jonathan]

I used what I had left of the NiCopp 5/16" x 60" that was for the fuel pump to carburetor line I got from Advanced Auto to run along side the fuel tank to eliminate 2ft of rubber line.  It would of been slightly longer but being it was only my second time bending fuel line I made some mistakes and kept loosing some length.  It comes off the end of the tank not far from where the stainless steel line starts.  So I only need a 1ft section from the fuel tank to the stainless steel line. And there is 1ft from the fuel sending unit to the NiCopp line. So that is 2ft already.  Then there is rubber line from the stainless steel line in the engine bay to the mechanical fuel pump and a rubber line from the NiCopp line from the fuel pump to the carburetor.  In the end it is not NHRA certified but I think it should be fine for driving around town.  The fuel line is on the upper part of the tank and far from the ground from getting snagged.  Let me know your thoughts or possible ways to improve it.  

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/nicopp-domestic-nicopp-nickel-copper-brake-fuel-transmission-line-5-16-x-60-cn-560/22190294-P

[ArdWrknTrk]

That certainly is a tidy installation!   *

I'm not sure how long those Ty-wrap saddles will last.
But you don't get the ice and slush we do up here.

I wouldn't be concerned at all.
How often do you hear about someone's clutch or driveshaft flying apart when they have only 120Hp?

[rcarlisle]

Wow.  Nice.   I think I want you doing my truck from here out.  

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

That certainly is a tidy installation!  

I'm not sure how long those Ty-wrap saddles will last.
But you don't get the ice and slush we do up here.

I wouldn't be concerned at all.
How often do you hear about someone's clutch or driveshaft flying apart when they have 120Hp?

Those cable tie holders won't stick for more then a month if I am lucky based on past experience.  It is more or less to keep it in position until everything is in place.  I am counting on that it is sandwiched between the two lines and the shape to keep it in place. Once the lines start to harden it should stay relatively in that area.

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

Wow.  Nice.   I think I want you doing my truck from here out.

I don't think you would want to wait that long.  I am too slow.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

The reason to use non-working (brass or bronze) tools is to avoid spark.
And for that matter, it's fine to use a steel hammer to hit a brass punch against steel.

The only need for a brass or bronze hammer is in a restricted environment (like an explosives factory or gas plant) where BOM or insurance won't allow sparking tools at all.
They generally need to be tethered too.

Someone asked what the hole was in their gas tank.
Your photo is much better than the illustration in the MPC.

I see what you were getting at now.  I like to use brass when I don't want to damage things also.  But safety is a good habit to get into anyway.  If the tank was used I would want to use a brass tools, trying to get into the habit. I don't need to worry about OSHA but I still try to be safe.  I just picked out a metal splinter from my head yesterday.  I can often hear metal plinking off my safety goggles. Just a habit I am glad I picked up.  I still remember those gross videos my shop teacher showed us every year.  A German machine I was trained on years ago had two days on just safety alone. They had a funny video with a guy being stabbed by a fork lift and being taken for a ride.

[ArdWrknTrk]

As long as the tubing can't rattle and fret, you should be good!