1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[FuzzFace2]

Jonathan wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

Ok the measurement I got if the line was straight is about 8 feet.
Quick measurement trying to follow the curves was about 7 feet and why if straight it would be 8 feet.
This would be what came off of my 81 flare side, they only came with 16 gallon side tanks.

So if your truck is a long bed and the line to short wonder if they got part numbers mixed up and you got a short bed line?
I know a 19 gallon side tank will not fit in place of a 16 gallon one as I tried.

Now when I added the dual tank setup from my parts truck I am pretty sure from the pump back to the valve and the valve all landed in the right place on the frame as they do make short bed style side trucks with dual tanks.
IIRC I had to shorten the rear tank line as it was for a long bed truck.

FYI IIRC the brake line to the rear had the same front lines between LB & SB trucks but the rears were different. I cant remember if I made the LB one shorter or used the SB one?
I do know I used the best of what ever I had on hand for everything.
Dave ----

I remembered to measure my old line today.  It was 7ft overall length.  Does that match yours? I was not clear on your method of measurement.  I just put a tape measure next to it as pictured below.

Yes that is how I got the 7' and if the metal line was straight, no bends, it would be 8'.
Is your truck a long bed or short bed?
IIRC the long bed tanks fit under the cab more but think the sender / fuel outlet would be back a little more on a long bed truck? Then again its been years since I did the fuel lines / tank install.
Dave ----

[FuzzFace2]

Jonathan wrote

Yesterday I installed clear rubber bumpers on the fuel door side to help cushion the closing more and keep the door parallel to the body of the truck. It also makes it easier to get your finger in to open the door. Inside view with the door closed also provided.

I like that, the LMC ones dont hold the door out enough and it is starting to mark the body behind the door.
I dont think the door sits to low that it is not even with the body but??

Fuel line job looks nice
Dave ----

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

Jonathan wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

Ok the measurement I got if the line was straight is about 8 feet.
Quick measurement trying to follow the curves was about 7 feet and why if straight it would be 8 feet.
This would be what came off of my 81 flare side, they only came with 16 gallon side tanks.

So if your truck is a long bed and the line to short wonder if they got part numbers mixed up and you got a short bed line?
I know a 19 gallon side tank will not fit in place of a 16 gallon one as I tried.

Now when I added the dual tank setup from my parts truck I am pretty sure from the pump back to the valve and the valve all landed in the right place on the frame as they do make short bed style side trucks with dual tanks.
IIRC I had to shorten the rear tank line as it was for a long bed truck.

FYI IIRC the brake line to the rear had the same front lines between LB & SB trucks but the rears were different. I cant remember if I made the LB one shorter or used the SB one?
I do know I used the best of what ever I had on hand for everything.
Dave ----

I remembered to measure my old line today.  It was 7ft overall length.  Does that match yours? I was not clear on your method of measurement.  I just put a tape measure next to it as pictured below.

Yes that is how I got the 7' and if the metal line was straight, no bends, it would be 8'.
Is your truck a long bed or short bed?
IIRC the long bed tanks fit under the cab more but think the sender / fuel outlet would be back a little more on a long bed truck? Then again its been years since I did the fuel lines / tank install.
Dave ----

Mine is a long bed. Inline Tube still has not replied to me.

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

Jonathan wrote

Yesterday I installed clear rubber bumpers on the fuel door side to help cushion the closing more and keep the door parallel to the body of the truck. It also makes it easier to get your finger in to open the door. Inside view with the door closed also provided.

I like that, the LMC ones dont hold the door out enough and it is starting to mark the body behind the door.
I dont think the door sits to low that it is not even with the body but??

Fuel line job looks nice
Dave ----

Thank you, I like it better.  I still did not pick up the other rubber bumper I ordered from AutoZone for the lower side.  I will update after I do but not much should change.

[Jonathan]

Friday night and Saturday I worked on the tank more.  I insulated the rub points and then covered with tape for extra protection.  After that I put several layers of rust protection on the top of the tank and prepped the bottom of the tank for rust protection after I install it. I didn't want to get sticky oil all over me when lifting it up so I will treat the bottom after I install it.

CRC Link

https://amzn.to/3hToquv

[Jonathan]

Since my NOS battery hold down bracket got lost in shipping I painted the old one yesterday. I inverted a table and put string between the legs to hold it up whilst painting. It still is scared up from the rust but it shouldn't get any worse now.

[Jonathan]

Yesterday I also removed the old fuel pump. The bolts were not very tight and it came off easy. The old rocker arm has a bend up on the end and the new one is straight across. I turned over the engine holding the fuel pump by hand until I felt the camshaft eccentric lower down with the fuel pump rocker arm riding on it. That way I won't need to use a lot of force to get the two bolts in. You still got to push down on the pump a little to get the bolts to line up but it is mostly just preload force. I also got a chance to use a new tungsten carbide tip scraper I got.  I was surprised how good the new scraper is.  Here is a link to the scraper.

https://amzn.to/2R6a8Mf

[Jonathan]

On Sunday I installed the new mechanical fuel pump.  The threads had some resistance in them so I chased it out with my thread restore kit. It was funny that where the tape covered the left hole last night the brake parts cleaner leaked out of the threads and ate the sticky part away.  I torqued the bolts to 25 ft lbs and before that put assembly lube on the rocker arm and the parts inside where the spring is as recommended. The gasket stayed in place because of the sticky spray gasket which helps free up a hand.



 

[Gary Lewis]

Looks good!  I like how that scraper seems to have worked.  And that gasket spray would be a big help in getting things lined up.

But where did you get the spec of 25 ft-lbs?  The factory shop manual (Documentation/Engines/300 Six) says 12 - 18.  I don't know that 25 will cause a problem, but....

[Jonathan]

After installing the new fuel pump I tested that it could pull a vacuum. After that I put a fuel container on the ground and let it pump up the fuel whilst cranking the engine. The test worked good so it looks like I am ready to install the fuel tank.  I also installed the threaded fuel filter on the carburetor. It seemed not to want to stop when I was screwing it in.  I worried I might crack the carburetor.  So I just snugged it up and didn't try to go any tighter.  If it leaks I can always tighten up some more.

[Jonathan]

Now question time.  Why is there a can of beans in the engine compartment?  And why does it leak when I crank the engine?

[Jonathan]

Next question is carb related.  Any tips on getting this line to stay in the carb?  It keeps popping out.  What is it called or do?

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's a vacuum reservoir (and obviously a vacuum leak, now)

The bowl vent long your carburetor should be connected to a check valve and then to the charcoal canister.
I imagine that 40 years of engine heat and gas fumes has finally killed the rubber's elasticity.

[Gary Lewis]

The bean can is actually a vacuum reservoir.  It shouldn't leak and it shouldn't have anything in it.  Some have fiberglassed their old one to repair it, but I'd recommend getting another one.  There are at least two sizes of cans and then there's the plastic ball.  Any of them would work.

As far as the hose, I think it is the vent hose to pull vapors from the bowl of the carb into the charcoal canister.  And you should be able to replace it with a piece of fuel line the right size.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Looks good!  I like how that scraper seems to have worked.  And that gasket spray would be a big help in getting things lined up.

But where did you get the spec of 25 ft-lbs?  The factory shop manual (Documentation/Engines/300 Six) says 12 - 18.  I don't know that 25 will cause a problem, but....

I was going to do 27 but it seemed to much so I dropped it to 25.  My manual in the fuel pump chapter says 19-27 ft-lbs.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

The bean can is actually a vacuum reservoir.  It shouldn't leak and it shouldn't have anything in it.  Some have fiberglassed their old one to repair it, but I'd recommend getting another one.  There are at least two sizes of cans and then there's the plastic ball.  Any of them would work.

As far as the hose, I think it is the vent hose to pull vapors from the bowl of the carb into the charcoal canister.  And you should be able to replace it with a piece of fuel line the right size.

Thank you Gary.  I will look for the vacuum reservoir.  As for the vent hose there seems to be a coupler that attaches the line to the carb.  But it won't stay in.  Maybe it shrunk over the years. The line is very fat.

[Gary Lewis]

What manual do you have?

[rcarlisle]

 

Jonathan wrote

Now question time.  Why is there a can of beans in the engine compartment?  And why does it leak when I crank the engine?

Oops - late to that part of the party.   Never mind...

THat's a vacuum can.  Not sure why it's leaking or why it has fluid in it.   Possibly failing?  Is that over near the heaterbox?   I have one over there - it is a tank to keep vacuum ready for the vent controls from the dash.   I think.  

Might clean it out and check it, see if it holds vacuum.  

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

It's a vacuum reservoir (and obviously a vacuum leak, now)

The bowl vent long your carburetor should be connected to a check valve and then to the charcoal canister.
I imagine that 40 years of engine heat and gas fumes has finally killed the rubber's elasticity.

Thanks Jim, I will look for a new coupler and line.  The coupler must of shrunk if it is just a press fit.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

What manual do you have?

It is a set of three shop manuals for a 1981 Ford Truck, Official Licensed Product from RockAuto.  Copyright is 2015 from Dave Graham.