1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Gary Lewis]

It will look a whole lot better, even though it is missing the end.

Anyway, one piece at a time you are creating a really nice, clean truck.  

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

It will look a whole lot better, even though it is missing the end.

Anyway, one piece at a time you are creating a really nice, clean truck.  

After painted it should look a little better and stop the rust.  I am not sure why this part is not offered aftermarket.  For the end I got some fender washers from Northern Tool that I sandwich on the end to reinforce it.

[Gary Lewis]

They are frequently available NOS.  Go to page Documentation/Electrical/Battery Trays and you'll see the illustrations.  There the hold down is base part number 10A691.  Scroll on down and you'll see that the right hand hold down appears to be part # E0TZ 10A691-A for most applications.  Then search for that part number online.

[rcarlisle]

Mine has the old "bungee cord mod" holding the battery in place.  Adds 7.9 hp.  

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

They are frequently available NOS.  Go to page Documentation/Electrical/Battery Trays and you'll see the illustrations.  There the hold down is base part number 10A691.  Scroll on down and you'll see that the right hand hold down appears to be part # E0TZ 10A691-A for most applications.  Then search for that part number online.

Thanks for your help and the part number.  It was more then I wanted to pay but it was the last one on eBay for now.  I didn't want to regret it later. There was only one left out of three they had so I got it.

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

Mine has the old "bungee cord mod" holding the battery in place.  Adds 7.9 hp.

Bungee cords increases your street cred only.  You need hood hold downs for more horse power.  5hp for each hold down clip!  Racing stripe will give you 10hp!

[rcarlisle]

My bungee has a knot in it to take up the slack.  Lots of cred.  I gotta say she's stable.   And an Interstate battery.  That has to be good for something, right???  I'm afraid to look under it.  If I ever move it, may not be able to get back in place.  

Hope you get to accomplish more this week.  Raining up here for next couple days though.  You too probably.

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

My bungee has a knot in it to take up the slack.  Lots of cred.  I gotta say she's stable.   And an Interstate battery.  That has to be good for something, right???  I'm afraid to look under it.  If I ever move it, may not be able to get back in place.  

Hope you get to accomplish more this week.  Raining up here for next couple days though.  You too probably.

I moved the fuel tank in the garage so I can finish prepping it for install.  I marked the rub points during a test fitting and will cushion those areas.  It only rains a little in the garage.  Still need to fix the leak.

[Jonathan]

I found a rubber bumper for the fuel door in a Dorman kit.  It only comes with one of the bumpers that fits so you have to buy two kits.  They only had one in stock at Autozone so I ordered another.  I think it looks better then the LMC one and it is large enough to not have to use a washer to capture the tip. It still is shorter then the original bumper.  I think ideally the fuel door would be parallel to the side of the truck.  I will put a cushion on the other side which should help.

[Jonathan]

This weekend I also replaced the sending unit plug.  The old one was okay but getting dry rotted.  I worry about the seal so figured now is a good time to do some preventive maintenance. I used a little nicer cable cover too then the dried up and broken original and some heat shrink tubing.

[Gary Lewis]

You really AFTER IT!  New battery hold-down, cleaning the tank, replacing the sending unit pigtail, etc.  

[Jonathan]

Before installing I figured it would be good to test the sending unit. Seems to work okay.  I may spray some contact cleaner on the sending unit contacts to help protect it so it may last longer.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

You really AFTER IT!  New battery hold-down, cleaning the tank, replacing the sending unit pigtail, etc.  

Thanks Gary, I figured I will try to get it right the first time so I don't need to revisit later on.  One less thing to worry about when diagnosing other issues down the road.

[Jonathan]

I test fitted the tank on Saturday and marked the locations where it rubs to insulate it. This also allowed me to test and adjust the filler neck position before tightening down the clamp.  I put tape over the openings and covered up the filler neck end to keep dirt out of the tank.  It rains dirt and dust under the truck.  Safety goggles is a must. I slowly raised the tank one step at a time using wood blocks to guide the filler neck up.  Then used ratchet straps to complete it getting into position. It is one of the things you have to do when you are working alone.

[IDIBronco]

The ratchet straps second hand(and third hand, and fourth hand, and...) Is one of my favorite go to solutions for working alone.  You have a lot of control and adjustability to position something safely.  

I like it.

[Jonathan]

The fuel line from inline tube was not correct and too short.  Why is it so hard to get the correct line?  Was there a production change where they made the line shorter after 1981?  The bends work just it ends far short from where the old line was.  Any harm in just extending the rubber fuel line longer then the factory one was?  I can let it rest in the lip of the tank seam.  

I managed to not break any clips holding the fuel line.  But I had to remove one bolt to get the fuel line out in the engine bay. I only needed to add one clip because it stopped before the rest of the factory clips were.  Good thing I ordered some fuel line clips from LMC. Ended up I needed one.

[Jonathan]

IDIBronco wrote

The ratchet straps second hand(and third hand, and fourth hand, and...) Is one of my favorite go to solutions for working alone.  You have a lot of control and adjustability to position something safely.  

I like it.

It does come in handy.  I just wish I had better control of them. I saw a review for a self rewinding ratchet strap today.  I always seem to have problems getting them to release so that seems handy.  One button takes up the slack.

https://youtu.be/hKIL9fqtDiA

[Jonathan]

I started to work on the fuel pump on Sunday also.  I was not looking forward to this because I knew that connection would probably be difficult.  Even with the right tool it was not budging. The is after I had it soaking in Deep Creep for a week. Finally I gave the flare nut wrench a few whacks with a hammer and it broke loose.  The threads on the inverted flare fitting tube nut was damaged so I looked at trying to replace it.  Randy helped me locate the part and I went to Advanced Auto to pick it up.  I also got some line to try and bend which ended up coming with the nut so I just purchased the line.  If I can't bend it correctly I can use a nut from the line by cutting off one end. Cut off a little from my old line and put a flare on it. I found I have a flare tool that I think will work if it is just a standard 45 degree flare. I got the tool when I installed a mini split in my garage. Using the old flare I test fitted it in my tool and it lines up from what I can tell. As for the other side I think it is called a double bead where the rubber fuel line slides on.  From research I have done I think the proper tool cost $300 dollars so I will do the first step of a double flare or bubble flare to make that little phallic shaped tip. I ordered a bubble/double flare kit which should come tomorrow. It is not high pressure fuel line so I think what ever little bulge I can put on the end should be fine.

[Gary Lewis]

Not sure where to start with a response as you have a ton of stuff in that post.  But I'm glad that you got that fitting off.  And you did what I sometimes do - hit the wrench with a hammer.  It seems that the impact is what it takes.

And it seems that you have a good plan on the replacement.  So I'll hide and watch as you sure seem to be getting things done.  

[FuzzFace2]

Nice work
If the fuel line is this short I would not make up the rest with rubber hose!

I would get another 2 flare nuts and cuppler and leanth of metal line to run the leanth.
Put the nut on, flare the end, add the cuppler nut & flare the metal line and join the 2.

BTW what end is it short at, tank or pump?
That is the side tank you are working on but I dont think if they sent you a short bed line it would be that short?

With dual tanks the line from pump to tank valve is the same on both wheel bases.
I think I have my old SB line hanging on the wall and can measure if you want.
Dave ----