1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

Yesterday I got the new stainless steel hardware in from Amazon. I ordered #6 fender washers so I could tap it to #8 so the washer wont fall off just like the original. I tried to hold it manually with rubber grips so I would not mare the surface but it was too difficult, so I ended up using my vise and just carefully clamped it.  If I had to do a lot and for other people I would probably make a wood jig with a slot cut in it to hold the washer in the vise without causing any damage. Last picture is the three filler neck screws.  They came out great with a little polish.  I have no idea what metal it is made of but it didn't rust.

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

Thanks, Jonathan.  I have read that 3/4" pex works for this vent as well.  I'll study on it, see what I can do as a stopgap.  But that flex hose on teh kero pump might work even better to fit down the hose.

BTW, per your bent crossmember, I tried to unbend mine, which was bent opposite yours.  Apparently someone tried to pull truck via that crossmember.   My little trolley jack was picking up the truck before starting any sort of bending action.    I think I may just paint it black and call it my air dam.

It could be a good opportunity to custom fabricate something cool looking.

[Jonathan]

Jonathan wrote

rcarlisle wrote

Thanks, Jonathan.  I have read that 3/4" pex works for this vent as well.  I'll study on it, see what I can do as a stopgap.  But that flex hose on teh kero pump might work even better to fit down the hose.

BTW, per your bent crossmember, I tried to unbend mine, which was bent opposite yours.  Apparently someone tried to pull truck via that crossmember.   My little trolley jack was picking up the truck before starting any sort of bending action.    I think I may just paint it black and call it my air dam.

It could be a good opportunity to custom fabricate something cool looking.

Actually I was thinking that maybe if I took mine to a machine shop they can straighten it out and reinforce it so it can be a lift point.  Just make it super strong!

[Jonathan]

I am looking for tips and tricks on replacing the mechanical fuel pump.  I never replaced one before.  How do I insure it is riding correctly on the engine.  Do I use any RTV on the gasket?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Nice vise!

The fuel pump shouldn't need additional sealant.
It isn't anywhere near submerged.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Nice vise!

The fuel pump shouldn't need additional sealant.
It isn't anywhere near submerged.

Thank you, I smile every time I see it. Made in USA and so smooth.  Cost a pretty penny but was worth it.

Thanks for the tip on the fuel pump.  I read somewhere you should put assembly lube or some kind of grease on the pump arm where it rides on the engine.  Does it help until oil gets on it?  I can't imagine the grease lasting long.

[ArdWrknTrk]

V8's get plenty of oil to the cam eccentric.
Don't know about 300's.

I suppose a dab of grease couldn't hurt.  

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

V8's get plenty of oil to the cam eccentric.
Don't know about 300's.

I suppose a dab of grease couldn't hurt.  

I have a lot of grease, I can't find my assembly lube the last I looked for it so I will try some high temp wheel bearing grease.  After the engine first runs for 5 mins I will change the oil anyway.  

[rcarlisle]

A dab of grease sounds reasonable.  And then a prompt oil change would be great for the motor as well.  My question is will it speak this weekend?  The suspense is killing me...   

 I go start my truck just to hear it run.  Any excuse to drive around the block.  I could hear me telling my wife - "Jonathan got his new fuel pump in - I'm going around block just to make sure" And my around the block trip keeps getting longer.  

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

A dab of grease sounds reasonable.  And then a prompt oil change would be great for the motor as well.  My question is will it speak this weekend?  The suspense is killing me...   

 I go start my truck just to hear it run.  Any excuse to drive around the block.  I could hear me telling my wife - "Jonathan got his new fuel pump in - I'm going around block just to make sure" And my around the block trip keeps getting longer.

I am hoping to get the fuel system straightened out this weekend.  Other then rebuilding the carb I will try to start it first with the old spark related stuff. After hearing it run I will be more motivated for sure. Next step would be change the oil, rebuild the carb and change out all the spark components.

[Jonathan]

Last night sprayed rust inhibiter on the fuel door hinge area.  This is to prevent it from rusting until I paint it properly some day.  Then I primed and painted the fuel filler neck.  The self etching primer went on as expected but I was not happy with the finish of the paint.  I didn't use the fuel resistant paint because this is mostly to protect it from the elements and it won't get much exposure directly to fuel.  The problem came when it was getting dark and the final coat I put on too thick.  I know nobody will see it but it still bugs me.  I will sand down a little and paint the final coat again today.

[rcarlisle]

Looking good.  You're going to have the nicest fuel system on here.  BUt at least there should be no questioning any component in the system.  Peace of mind.  

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, it looks good and should last forever!  

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

Looking good.  You're going to have the nicest fuel system on here.  BUt at least there should be no questioning any component in the system.  Peace of mind.

Hopefully the stainless steel fuel line comes tomorrow and it is correct this time.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, it looks good and should last forever!  

Yeah I think it needs some protection to prevent rusting.  If it kept going as it was it might of been eaten up in ten more years.  All the road spray must get up in there driving in the rain.

[Jonathan]

I sanded down the filler pipe this morning but the paint was not fully cured.  It made it difficult to smooth the drips because it started to smear around the paint.  Ideally it would of be best to wait 48 hours but I really want to wrap it up this weekend.  So I did the best I could to smooth it out and paint again. I tried not  to get down too deep to the primer.  It came out better this time because I held it with my hand when painting and didn't keep it on my custom stand. I was able to rotate the work piece better and hold horizontal whilst painting. I will call it good enough and let it set up properly before installing on Sunday.

[Jonathan]

This might come as a shock but the new rubber bumpers from LMC does not fit.  It is too small and just falls inside the hole.  I found washer that helped secure it inside the fuel filler catch.  I removed the tape from the filler neck. It is mostly dry but still a little tacky.

[Gary Lewis]

The filler neck looks great!  Well done.  And I understand about holding it rather than mounting it to paint - makes a big difference.

And it is no shock that the LMC bumper doesn't work.  Others have reported the same thing.  But you found a solution?  A washer?  You used the washer inside to capture the tip of the bumper?

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

The filler neck looks great!  Well done.  And I understand about holding it rather than mounting it to paint - makes a big difference.

And it is no shock that the LMC bumper doesn't work.  Others have reported the same thing.  But you found a solution?  A washer?  You used the washer inside to capture the tip of the bumper?

Thank you Gary, yeah the washer was used to capture the tip.  A little smaller washer would of been better but all my other washers were too small.  LMC should know about the issue by now if it was reported by others.  I wonder why they have not bothered to source one that works?  I will report it to them and see what happens.

[Jonathan]

I de-rusted and rinsed the battery holder.  After that I polished it and now it is the vibrating tumbler for final polish with the bolts before I paint it.