Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

[Papelione]

I agree

But would like to know why, he has gone to all this trouble og rerouting wiring.
All factory wiring seams to be in Place, but there must have been some kind of a Power problem.
Since there now is a "hot wire" Connection between solenoid and generator, distributor, ignition coil etc.

Would it help if I uploaded some Pictures?

Have to wait for turn light switch to arrive before putting the column back together any way.

/Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

It would be great to see some pictures!

Especially of all the wires connected to the battery+ side of the fender mounted starter relay.

Could it be that a simple fusible link burned internally and he could not understand why there was no power to the ignition switch at the bottom of the steering column?

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Ok, I will try to document it best I can this evening, Pictures is on the way.

/Christian

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This is what it looks like now, there was even a external wiper switch attached from beginning.



Relay A, both goes to the one close to camera.

Let me know what you think, obviously this is a potential problem in the long run, a actually bothers me that so many shortcuts have been made, therefore I would very much like to straighten it out.

On a happier note, had a nice visit from fellow bullnosian



Best regards

Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thank you for the pictures!

Actually, it all looks very normal (except to/from bypass switch)
The blue crimp going to the charging splice seems not too well done.

Do you have any understanding of why the ignition switch will not trigger the relay by the red/blue little wire attached to the small 'S' stud?

[Papelione]

Thank you for helping :=)

Your thinking of this connection ? marked with red circle.



red/lt blue is not connected to this one, red/lt blue goes to Ignition control module.

The black wire in picture was spliced to 2 inches of red/lt blue in ignition switch, so you could say that connection was going straight to relay and not to ICM.

Makes sense?

Best regards

Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

The two small terminals are 'S' (start, the trigger for the relay, coming from keyed switch)
And 'I' (ignition, the retard trigger of the ignition module, which should be powered while the starter motor turns) your "cylinder by the transmission"

So, really all the owner has done is add a start button.
Taking power from the battery side and bringing it to the trigger point.

Id suggest they have a problem with the neutral safety switch or its associated wiring.
Probably didn't know how to deal with it and added a bypass.

I walked Gary through troubleshooting his clutch safety switch.
He has good pictures.
Do you want to do some diagnosis and repair?

[Papelione]

That's good to hear, is clutch safety switch and neutral safety switch the same thing?

I would very much like to do diagnosis and repair:=)

Point me the way and I will give it my best shot.

/Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, the same.
There are two sub harnesses, depending whether automatic or manual gearbox.

Have a look at the clutch pedal arm, up under the dash board.

You should see a white plastic rack (toothed shaft)
On this will be a plastic block, that should close the safety switch when the pedal is pressed to disengage the clutch.

On the dashboard sub-structure will be the switch with blue/red wires.

Slide the block down the rack, and then depress the clutch pedal.
This will make a cracking noise as the actuator self adjusts.

Then try to use the key to start (with the clutch depressed)

[ArdWrknTrk]

If this does not work, step two is to bypass the safety to prove the rest of the circuit.

Unplug the switch and insert a 15A fuse into the harness plug.

Then (in NEUTRAL,with the parking brake engaged!) try again to use the key to start the truck.

[Papelione]

Is this it? seen from under dashboard looking up to the left.

Is "1" the plastic block?

/Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes!

So, push the plastic block to the right (in your photo)

[Papelione]

Ok, did that. heard the cracking.
No effect.

To take switch out, I need to take off rest of instrument panel?

Was pretty hard to see the connection, will do that and report back.

Much appreciated.

Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

Don't remove the switch.
Just unplug it and use a spare fuse to jumper the socket.

If it now works, the switch is faulty.

[Papelione]

Put the fuse in Connection With white circle, red/ltblue was coming to that one, there is a black one as well, red circle.

Unfortunately no effekt, I am activating Ignition switch directly, as column is apart.
I did`nt depress clutch

No Power in connection With test light, in key "run" position. "start" was hard as I had to
push ignintion switch and use test light, but can probably make it happen.

/Christian

[Papelione]

Tried again.

Test light in white circle connection, Power in start.

Hear clicking from the relay but no start.

/Christian

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Cant let it go.

looking at diagram, "yellow" to starter relay.



Top of ignition switch, yellows are in accessory port´s



Wondering if I have any connection to starter relay, disconnected "5" from ignition switch to reinstall red/ltblue, but I hear the clicking from relay when in start, could it be from "7"



That's from my today, really looking forward fixing this.

Thx for help today.

/Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

Christian,
7 (ignition) only has power when the main relay makes contact.

The large yellow wire to the ignition switch on the lower steering column is main power, and all time power going to the fuse panel.

I see the factory (cylindrical) splice in the alternator wire.
Do you have an ammeter, or only a charge fault indicator light?

[Papelione]

I have this :=)

[ArdWrknTrk]

But in the truck what shows you charging status?

We are fast approaching mid-summer night.
What is your latitude?