Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

[Gary Lewis]

I'm glad things are going well.  

On the seats, if I remember correctly you are swapping seats with another Bullnose - right?  And that truck must either be a Supercab or a Bronco as those were the only ones that got the buckets.  (Actually captain's chairs, as the buckets were lower and w/o arm rests.)  And yours is a Supercab.  So I'm confused as to why the seats won't directly swap.  Can you say more about that?

As for LMC's brackets, they are designed to adapt their "Signature Series Seats" to a wide range of vehicles.  The one you mentioned, 49-5765, supposedly adapts their seats to a Bullnose truck.  HOWEVER, there are two different floor pans for our trucks - regular cabs & crew cabs have one front floor pan and Broncos and supercabs have another.  And LMC doesn't tell us which floor pan that bracket fits.

So, there are two big questions: Will that bracket fit your truck, and if it does can you mount those seats to it?  On the question of if it'll fit, I will contact my friend, and member on here, Keith Dickson to tell him that it looks like there's a bust in his catalog since it doesn't tell which floor pan that bracket fits.  But he won't be able to tell you if the bracket will fit your seat.

So I go back to not understanding why your seat won't fit your friend's truck and why his buckets won't bolt into yours.  Please explain?

[Papelione]

Hi

He has same cab as me, (is it supercab?)
Not knowing if hi´s seats are original, but they do look like Ford to me.

The reason they dont fit is bolt pattern is different.

Mine obviously only has 4 holes and he´s has 8, but there is also a shorter distance between front and back holes.

Mine was 35 cm ish and his was 31 cm ish.

Does it make sense?

[Gary Lewis]

I understand what you said, but I don't understand why that is the case.  I really am confused as I thought that if the seats bolt into one Supercab they'll bolt into another.

And "Supercab" is one with the little back seat and small side window with no extra doors.

I know it would be a pain, but can you take pictures of your floor vs your friend's floor, maybe with tape measures laid in?  I really would like to understand why things are different.

[1986F150Six]

Perhaps the donor truck had been modified/altered for the seats to fit?

[Gary Lewis]

1986F150Six wrote

Perhaps the donor truck had been modified/altered for the seats to fit?

Yes, maybe the seats aren't from Ford.  So if he were to pull up the carpet or mat he could tell.

[Papelione]

I have the blue seats including brackets from the 1990 F250 supercab I toke the interiör from (see old post) and just mensured the brackets there.
From front hole to rear hole 28 cm. On my truck bench 40 cm front to rear hole.....
Om pretty sure that was original seats on original interior

[Gary Lewis]

I assume these are the blue seats you mean.




Ok, let's take this seat by seat.  On our page at Documentation/Interior/Seats & Seat Tracks you can go to the tab called Illustrations and then Seat Track Illustrations.  And then scroll down to the last illustration, the one below, which is for the passenger's bucket seat.




In real life, those parts look like this.  The thing on the left as well as the one laying on the other part are 6257 in the illustration above.  Do you have those?  And the big thing in this pic is the rest of that illustration.  Do you have it?  All of that is required to bolt a bucket or captain's chair into your truck.



Then on the driver's side here's the illustration for the base:




And here's a pic of part of that.  Note that these don't have the sliders on them, but you can see what they look like:





Do you have all of that stuff for the buckets?  If so, then it should all bolt in to a Supercab.

[Papelione]

I got this



and this



From what I remember these are very much like the ones I am considering swapping to.

Could it be that this is the original bracket on the 87- onwards Ford f250 ?

And do you think these bolt on to the LMC bracket,( that is supposed to fit my truck).

/Christian

[Gary Lewis]

Christian - I got this back from Keith Dickson, our member that now works for LMC: "I contacted TMI directly and they confirmed that the brackets available through LMC are for standard cab and crewcab applications only. They don't have a bracket specific to the Supercabs and Broncos, though they do have a universal bracket that will work with modifications."

So, the bracket in their catalog you are looking at will not fit your truck.

But, the brackets you show in the pictures should.  Have you tried them?  Pull your seat and see if they'll fit.

[Papelione]

Ok, so no easy fix through LMC, good to know. since it is an expensive bracket.:=)

I will give it a try, but then there's the difference between the holes 28 vs 40 cm.

Just drill new ones and use bolts?, ( feels kind a wrong).

See if if I can give it a try during the weekend.

Also got the column back together, now tilt works ( remember did´nt think I had one).

Fuse to turn lights keept blowing on right turn, turns out I had a corroded rear turn light right side.
Thing I might try LED´s with bayonet.

Turn lights work and truck starts from key.

Test ride afterwards, much improved handling on bumpy road, just need to get the rear ones in.

Celebrated with a cold beer:=)


Have Good Friday, to all who is reading.

Time here is past midnight.

Good night.

/Christian

[Sac79]

Always nice to celebrate with a cold one!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Papelione wrote

Have Good Friday, to all who is reading.

Time here is past midnight.

/Christian

In the land of the midnight sun...

I'm enjoying a hard cider I brewed.  😉
Maybe I should make a barrel to put aside for apple jack this winter?

[Gary Lewis]

I think you should see if the brackets will fit.  And I don't think you'll have to drill holes.  I hope.

But I agree that drilling holes is not the way to do it.  Most of these trucks have reinforcement for where the seats bolt in, so I don't think it is right to just drill a hole in an unsupported place.

[Papelione]

Havn´t gotten around to test the brackets yet.

Unfortunately the turn signal is not working again.

Fuse keeps on blowing on right turn, left is ok

Took the column apart again, and it looks like the replacement lock ring( to hold outer bearing in place) wasn't up for the job. It was bend and misaligned, maybe creating a short with the switch.
Put in the original slightly bend lockring, which wasn't a bad fit.

And now Fuse don't blow, left hand is still ok. Right hand side the arrow just stays on with no blinking.
Tried with two other flashers same result.

At one point right hand was flashing in the inst panel and I started putting everything back together, but then it stayed one.

Both turn signal bulb broke when I took them out to check. They were old.

Is the staying on an safety signal that there is a bulb defect.

Or is there just something wrong?

Actually tried putting in the old turn light switch, and same result.

Will test with fresh bulbs in the morning, when shops open.

A little tired and annoyed......

:=)

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, it is a "feature", and maybe a safety feature.

The flasher is designed to flash at the correct rate given the current of all the bulbs.  But with fewer bulbs, meaning less current, it doesn't have enough heat from the current to cause it to flash.  So the bulbs stay on.

If you replace the flasher with one designed for toying a trailer, which means you'd have more bulbs, or for LED's, which means there'd be less current, then it'll flash at a given rate no matter how many bulbs of what kind you have.  But with the stock flasher you have to have all the bulbs to get it to flash correctly.

[Papelione]

Ok

Thank you, good to know, a little to familiar with column assembly and disassembly at the moment.

Good night

Christian

[Papelione]

Hi

Put in fresh bulbs, and turn light flashes in the instrument panel again:=)

Front right turn light flashes, but no turn signal light or brake light at rear right, Left side everything ok.

Hazard :everything works except rear right.

Obviously I am suspicious of the turn light switch, since this is the only thing I have changed.

But cant see anything wrong with it, all wires look good. Its orange/ltblue that gives the power to rear right brake and turn and it looks good. And switching with the old one, same result.

I have followed orange/ltblue from the direction light switch to the tail light assembly, and cant see no problem or discontinuity.

At the tail light assembly, everything looks good, dirty socket assembly´s, but I cleaned them up and cant see any loose wires. I probed with at test light at the front right turn light and I gives light, the rear no signal.

Then I thought of a bad ground, in diagram( below) back up light, tail, and direction shares a ground.
Cant seem to find it, but wires looks un tampered.

No reason wiring suddenly should have gone bad.

Thinking some wire has come loose with the work on the starter relay and the column.

Guess what I am saying, is that I'm stuck, any suggestion to lead me in the right direction (blink, blink)

Would much appreciated.

Best regards

Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

Do you have a running light on the right rear?
If so, it is feed and not ground that is the issue.

[Gary Lewis]

First, your book implies that the ground for your truck is at the right rear light.  But it isn't.  There's a wire that comes all the way back to under the dash.

The 1985 EVTM shows, below, that there's a connector, C305, towards the bottom of the steering column.  I'd check the O/LB wire there to see if the switch is feeding power to the lights.  If so, it is the wiring and not the switch.  If not, it is probably the switch.

[Papelione]

Ok

I will give it another look at the connectors at the bottom of the column.

But isn't O/lb in the green circles ? C305 looks like wire is LG?



If it is a switch problem, isn´t weird that both old and new switch both give same symptoms?

Running lights is with the engine running?

/Christian