Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

[ArdWrknTrk]

The older D60 has left hand studs on that side and the axles need to come out to access the drums and brakes inside.

I *think* you need to pop the diff cover to release the clips.

Anthony, or someone else with a pre-'85 250 or bigger would know for certain.

[Frank Wyatt]

I have never seen C clips on that style axle, the axle is held in by the 8 bolts in the axle hub. Then you remove the drum from the spindle by removing the spindle nut and bearings the same way you would the if you were taking the front rotor of a two wheel drive. Also be sure to pack the bearings with wheel bearing grease when re-assembling. A Haynes repair manual for your truck will have step by step disassembly and reassembly instructions.

[Gary Lewis]

I think the factory shop manual section here will help: Documentation/Driveline/Brakes.  And then go to the Rear Brakes tab followed by the Drum Brakes R&R tab.  Then go to Page 8.  Does that do it?

[Papelione]

Thx guys.

It was the repacking of bearings I was wondering of, and if I should have a couple of new seals ready, before starting out?

Does it state which axle from this label?



Been watching this video, on a 1979 250, rear Axel looks the same. Same procedure?

Looks like a big socket spanner is needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lP9q2wzYUt8

And this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRhkYQsAKI4

Best regards

Christian

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, it does show which axle you supposedly have.  But when you use the decoder here (Documentation/Specifications/Axle Ratios) you are presented with a conundrum.  The certification label says the axle is "72", but for an '84 truck that says it should have a Ford axle capable of carrying 2,200 lbs.  Clearly that isn't right as your rear axle rating is shown as 5,864 lbs.

Can you post some pics of your rear axle?  Especially the differential?  And, does it have a tag on it?

[Papelione]

Hmm, I see that.

I only have this picture since it is in winter storage now.



If you look at this chart, axle 72 is rated differently

https://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech-articles/axles/identify-your-ford-truck-axle-from-the-door-sticker/

I guess that, I will have to wait ordering parts until truck is present, and I can read the tag off the diff itself:=)

By the way, tailgate decor is home again looks nice, and got a new produced drivers side trim, and found the rear wheel arch trim "nos" on ebay. So the missing parts are here and ready to be put in place.

Also the guy who did the tailgate decor has promised to fix the scratch/ dent over the rear wheel arch in spring. Rear bumper has a big dent.

Coming projects are then:

-Fix sticky e-brake, and rear brakes at the same time.
-Change gear fluid, hopefully that will help on hard 3rd.
-fix switches for wipers and ignition.
-Fix choke, as it stays on a little long( cold weather problem)
-generel clean up, remove stickers etc
-change right headlight bezel/chrome cover.
-Mount bed cover, probably Truxedo truxport. (had a hard time finding old school look bedcover, but this might do the trick....)

-Save up for new wheels....
-Go camping and fishing in tough old truck

Best from Blizzard Norway.

Christian


/Christian

[Frank Wyatt]

Yes you should always replace the seals any time the drums get removed. I also replace the brake return springs when ever I service drum brakes and highly recommend you do so as well. I would also consider getting new wheel cylinders even if they aren't leaking as it's easier to do so when you have it disassembled than having to disassemble it again to do it later on if one or the other starts leaking and contaminates your new shoes brake lining, which would require being replaced, again.

[Gary Lewis]

There's no way I know of telling from that pic, but it is supposed to be either a Dana 60 or a Dana 70.  So I've put up the whole section on Dana 60 & 70 rear axles from the shop manual.  With that and the section on brakes you should be good.

Documentation/Driveline/Axles and then the Rear Axles tab plus the Instructions tab, and then finally the Dana 60 & 70 Axles tab.

[Papelione]

Thank you

Also found brake shoe size thx to one of your older reply's 12*3 is the correct size.
Have a nice Saturday. Cant wait to get it home again....

/Christian

[Gary Lewis]

I'm glad it helps.  Good luck!

[Papelione]

Hi

Still on the Reading and preparing stage, wondering if any of you guys have ideas to read up on rebuild
renovating the 7,5 460 engine. Would love to follow a blog on a diy mek on that engine.

Any ideas og good reads?

Best regards

Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

Consider what you want from it (or what would make it better for you) very carefully before committing it to the machine shop.

I've made choices that haven't been best, but the 7.5 still keeps plugging along.

[Gary Lewis]

I agree with Jim.  Read and plan first, then build.

One resource is Scotty at Parkland Performance Auto Machine.  I bought a short-block, an engine w/o heads or pan, from him and may not have been able to beat his price much by having the work done locally.

However, shipping heavy things is expensive, especially to far northern Norway, so I can see the desire to do it locally.

[Papelione]

Hi guys

At last snow cleared up here for a moment at last, got the truck out of Storage in late april and been using it daily since then.
Having not owned a full size pick-up before it is a real pleasure just dumping Things in the back and not puzzling to get it in the Family car.
Been doing some small Things too, rear bumper was wire brushed and painted, mounted the to trim parts that was missing. Rubbed it With turpintine, will problably apply penzole flood later on. Choke was stuck got that fixed for now, and will start right up now.
But within first 5 min after Cold start up I have to rev it otherwise it dies on my, trid idling it while watching the choke plate and would open up slowly in 3 min, which I think is normal?
Carburator rebuild or cleaning? Holley H4-4180 i believe.

Othervice just been getting to know it camping and enjoying the truck.

Here\s som Pictures from lat month:=)


Camping this weekend, glad I have Heavy sleeping bag :=)


Hauling outdoor Furniture, rear bumper off;=)




Found this truck that was being demolished and agreed With owner.
Got some Things Mirrors, Chairs, center console, and New rear bumper.

[Gary Lewis]

Cool!  Literally!  Yes, heavy sleeping bag is needed.

Good find on that truck.  Glad you got the parts off of it.

On the choke, it sounds like the fast idle isn't adjusted properly.  There are two different Ford publications on servicing that carb here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/holley-4180c.html.  Go to the Ford Service Manuals tab and then the 4180C-4V tab.  On Page 10 is the discussion about adjusting the fast idle.

However, before you do as they say and rotate the choke cap 45 degrees, note where it is set now so you can put it back.  And, personally I'd not bother with bending the wire.  I would just give the screw half a turn or so and see if that doesn't bring your idle up while the choke is on.  You may need more, you may need less, so keep track of how much you turn it so you can put it back.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes it is cool, but not as cool as the 512 on the wall behind the headliner!  😉

A beautiful Country there Christian!
I'm sure you will make the best of long summer days in the outdoors.

[Gary Lewis]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Yes it is cool, but not as cool as the 512 on the wall behind the headliner!  😉

Had to look that one up: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrari_512

[Papelione]

Also called 512 BB, Berlinetta boxer, or Birgitte Bardot because of the shapes;=)

Will try adjusting fast idle screw and taking up rpm\ s a little more on startup.

/Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

The sound of that engine is absolutely glorious as it comes on cam and the rack of Webers starts slurping through their velocity stacks!

It's so close behind your head you may as well be in the engine compartment.
No use for a radio in one of those cars.

[Papelione]

Friday update

Last weekend we went for a long camping trip with truck, sleep in tent for 3 nights, truck was great.
Had an incident though with at battery cable that lost its cable shoe, but that was easy fix.







Back home I started out with two things In have looking to fix.

First was bad Wiper switch, that I changed working nicely now.

After that I tried to figure out why car won't
start with key, previous owner have made an arrangement with starter button under dash, connected to + on battery and starter solenoid and will start fine so.

Key will turn on heater and fuel pump but not crank. Dug in to column and changed key cylinder and ingnition switch, but problem was ignition actuator rod that was broken, had to order from ebay and waiting on it to reach Norway...
But when I push the rod that goes into the ignition switch, it cranks but will not start, any thoughts on were to look, since it will start with bypass button but only crank with ( pushing the rod).
?


lastly I got an offer too swap my bench seats with some nice bucket seats from a fellow bullnosian, thoughts ?






Have a nice weekend

Christian