Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, what you have circled is C305 - but only a part of it.  Basically, everything on the steering column goes through that connector.  Look here:

[Papelione]

And right you were:=)

went out and checked the first connector the turn light switch plugs into.

The O/lb wire going out from the female connector, has a slack of about 2 mm.
None of the other wire do. I pushed it in and turn light rear rh functions.

(green arrow)



Very impressed

It must have happened when I dissembled the column the first time; see my entry from June 11)
And it just lay there waiting for me to fix the key start thing.

Ok, so now I know where problem is.

How would you go about fixing it permanent?

/Christian

[Gary Lewis]

Cool!

For fixing it, if you pull the wire and pin/socket out there should be a "wing" on each side of the pin/socket that snap into a recess in the connector.  If you GENTLY bend those wings out SLIGHTLY it should go in, snap, and stay.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Great diagnosis and resolution!  

I'm glad you have the answer.

Parking, or running, lights is when the switch knob is pulled out half way.

[Papelione]

Uh I chickened out.

Was afraid of snapping it, pushed back with a pair of small pliers. And focused on not putting to much strain on the connector.

Put everything back, rh rear and the rest works pphhhhhhyyy.

Nice feeling.

will give it a day or two, and then its time for new rear dampers.

Thank you for the help.

Good night

Christian

[Gary Lewis]

There's really nothing to worry about.  The pin will look something like the one below, where the red arrows point to the "wings" I mentioned.  The one in the pic has several of them but the Ford ones usually have 2 or 3.  If they aren't catching, just bend them out slightly so they'll catch in the connector when slipped in.

As for how you get them out, you use the tool at the top, which presses the "wings" in and lets you pull the pin out.

[Papelione]

Ok neat

what is that tool called? guess you use that from the pointy side of the pin and it slides over and folds the wings in?

/C

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know the exact name.  I just Googled "electrical terminal removal tool" and found this set of tools on Amazon.  Don't know if this would work on the ones on our trucks though.

Yes, it goes over the pointy end and folds the wings in.

[Papelione]

Ok, look like a neat tool to have, for those times when you need it.

Went out this morning for some small arrends, fuse went blew again and no turn light!

Back home I was sure it was the slightly bend but original locking that had misaligned it self.

Took of steering wheel and noticed some white dust and scrape marks under the wheel.

(before all this I put the original steering wheel back on, bought truck with aftermarket wheel).

Lockring was in place, but on steering wheel backside more white dust or shavings.

With wheel off and new fuse, everything works.

Took a closer look at steering wheel base, and to me it looks like the base is slightly uneven and its touch
the cam on the turn light switch and area over hazard connections.

Put back aftermarket wheel, and with this on everything works. Will do a new test run tomorrow, and well see.

Problem is I really like the look of original wheel, I´ve see the horn is possible to buy, but not entire wheel...

pictures og steering wheel base below.

Thoughts?  :=)

/Christian


From a far



And close up, as close to 90 degree angel I could take the photo.

[Gary Lewis]

Christian - I see what you are saying about the steering wheel.  If the aftermarket wheel works but you want to use the original one, can you test it by placing electrical tape on the wheel?  It wouldn't be a permanent fix, but it might prove you are onto something.

[Papelione]

Vacation has been on the Schedule here in Norway, My bullnose was parked safeley in the garage, while we were away.



Being back home I tried dealing with the small things thats been nagging me.

Rear right turn light didn`t work again, so I pulled the wheel and dug in to the large Connectors going from turnlight switch.
There was Power, and I was able to trace power all the way to trailer Connections.
There I found a original ford 4 pin Connector that was loose and full of dirt. Cleaned it up and tightent it With some strips. -problem solved- :=)

Next problem was not beeing able to use orignal steering Wheel witout blowing turnlight fuse, when turning right...…

Tried Gary`s tip With electrical tape on the back of the Wheel, worked until tape ripped of.
Took a disc grinder on the back of the Wheel to take Down the edge shown in the previous post.
Then I put a thin disc cut from bendabel plastic sheet in between steering Wheel back and turn light switch . Seams to be working. If not I will use the disc grinder again.

From what I can see I am missing steering Wheel grip, the rim is thin rubbery plastic With some cracks in it, And I have been looking for som Nice grip to put on the Wheel, I found this. Will that suffice or do I need some foam or padding under?



But cant seam to find It in Europe, and Amazon charges 40 dollar for shipping, Product is below 20 dollar...… Any ideas? Is it posibel to buy in wallmart? or Target?

Next problem is that I dont have any parking light (neither front or back), also no instrument light.
Head light is good, and light in cab is good, and cargo light.

This happend some time ago, 5 amp fuse to inst light is good, light switch is original. Ordered a New one from rockauto it will be here tomorrow, hopefully inst light and park light will be back.

Replaced all light bulbs in instrument panel With LED, the small  With bayonet fixture above light and wiper switch I will try getting in LED today, looking forward tho seeing it With lights on.

Other than that, I have replaced headlight bezels and fixed the right side Mirror, and finally replaced rear dampers With New Bilsteins.
Ride is now firm and bumps are a breaze, so little work and so much improvement.



And finally I must say, I really enjoy my truck, and working on it. Almost no rust, and most Things have never been touched before, (besides electrical…..) so it\s pretty easy getting Things on and off.

Stay safe and enjoy Your trucks.

Christian

[Gary Lewis]

Christian - Hope you had a wonderful vacation!  Are the days starting to get very short there?

You've made good progress on the truck.  Well done!  You seem to have solved two electrical problems and several other issues as well.

Speaking of the truck, while you were away we announced that this year's truck show will be done virtually.  So you should enter.  See the page at Truck Shows/2020 Truck show for details.

On the steering wheel, there were two: a thin and hard wheel that is very narrow, and one with rubber padding.  Sounds like you have the thin/hard/narrow one.  I've never tried adding padding to them, but that wrap should add some thickness to yours, although maybe not much padding.

Anyway, welcome home!  And happy trucking!

[Gary Lewis]

Sorry, I forgot the question about Walmart.  I Googled "steering wheel wrap" on their site and got this result.  But all of the results say "sold and shipped by" someone else, so I'm not sure that they'd ship to you.

Surely someone in Europe does steering wheel wraps?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Christian, be careful if replacing the battery/alternator warning light with LED.
The diode will not pass enough current to get the alternator to charge.

(We just had a discussion on the forum about this)

[Papelione]

Ok, so I should keep standard bulb behind battery charge gauge?

Good to know will swap that back then.

/Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ah, you have an ammeter.
For this you should be fine with LED.

With less instruments -like mine- the power comes through an indicator bulb.

[Sac79]

No, you're fine to change the bulb behind the gauge Christian. Jim is referring to the warning light that some trucks had instead of an ammeter.

Oh, beat me to it Jim!

[Papelione]

Ok, thank you for fast reply.

Now looking forward to New light switch, would be a bliss to have park and instrument lights again.

Guess I know tomorrow.

/Christian

[Papelione]

Ok, so it was not the switch....

Fuse ok, but no power in run, have not checked start position (test light).

New switch, does not change anything.

I do not have position lights ( amber lenses in front). Tail lights, or instrument lights.

I use to have it, but not right now.

Obviously I have been tampering alot under the dash with reconnecting wiper switch and deleting external start button, could there be a loose ground?, from what I can see in my Haynes wirering diagram inst lights and tail lights are not connected.

Gary do you have a picture of the relevant wiring diagram, seams that yours have more detail.

Any ideas on where to start?

Best

Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

Christian, Gary has the 1985 EVTM hosted here on the site.
You see the signal lights diagram at the top of this page.

Which do you think would be more relevant?

Marker lamps?

The EVTM is a complete diagnostic manual, that can walk anybody through finding fault with any of the systems on the truck.