My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

[Rembrant]

Steve83 wrote

So back to the topic of the thread...
Which one did you NOT get a picture of?   Was it the little red 2-wire SCDS, or the big cast 4-wire RABS valve?

I did not see one of the frame mounted SCDS units at all. The first truck I looked at, the one I was asking about the unknown device on the frame, had the big RABS valve. Since you said it was the 1993 only frame mounted SCDS, I took that information and walked away. Had I actually looked at your picture...LOL, I would have known immediately that what I saw wasn't the SCDS. It only occurred to me later, after looking at a couple more trucks, that what I was asking about couldn't have been the SCDS.

When you said that we weren't looking at all of your pictures, you were right...lol.

By the way, that RABS valve is well hidden inside the frame rail. The wiring is not easily visible, and after 25 years of dirt, oil, and rust, all you can really see is a brake line going inside the frame, and a brake line coming out, that's it. I assume it is just a servo driven piston affair that releases rear brake line pressure when the ECM senses the rear wheels locking up before the fronts?

In any case, at least I know what it is now, and I have most of my new braking components ready to roll.

NOW...next question...

I looked in my 1984 FSM and did not see a spec on adjusting the booster rod. Mine seems to have a fairly large gap (like, in the area of 0.060" from my measurements). I found a generic spec that it should be more like 0.005", but that wasn't specific to Ford. Do you guys adjust these, or should there be a bit of a gap anyway?

[Gary Lewis]

Cory - I have it documented here: Driveline/Brakes and on the Master Cyl's & Boosters tab and then the Push Rod Adjustment tab.

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

Cory - I have it documented here: Driveline/Brakes and on the Master Cyl's & Boosters tab and then the Push Rod Adjustment tab.

I guess I didn't do a very good job of searching for that Gary, assuming it is also in my 1984 FSM. My required measurements are a little different...I assume because I'm installing the later master cyl. I'll adjust it so that it just touches. No big deal. Thank you sir.

[Gary Lewis]

Be really careful with the adjustment.  Scott/WelderScott and I adjusted his to just touch and when the brakes got warm they dragged and then got hot and then stopped the truck.  

I would err on the side of a little bit of clearance.

[Steve83]

Rembrant wrote

I assume it is just a servo driven piston affair...

No, just a spring-loaded piston in a brake-fluid-proof cylinder.  But it's normally isolated from the brake line, so it normally does nothing.

Rembrant wrote

...releases rear brake line pressure...

I wouldn't say "releases"; I'd say "stores fluid to reduce pressure".

Rembrant wrote

...the ECM senses the rear wheels locking up...

"ECM" makes me think you're referring to the engine control.  To avoid confusions, I only refer to it as the RABS module (later renamed RABS-II after a minor software improvement).

Rembrant wrote

...before the fronts?

The front wheels are not monitored in any way.  The module only observes the CHANGE in speed of the rear wheels, when that speed is above a certain threshold.  If they slow too rapidly, the RABS assumes they're about to lock up, and dumps some fluid into the RABS valve on the frame.  There's a 1-way valve that allows the spring to push that fluid back into the line (& up to the reservoir) when you let off the pedal.  For more info, read this & the NEXT several captions:

Rembrant wrote

...a spec on adjusting the booster rod.

Rembrant wrote

Do you guys adjust these...?

I never have, on any vehicle; even mine, after swapping MCs &/or boosters &/or pedals.

[Ferdinand]

Steve thanks for the link of the Tasca Parts site! I hadn't heard of it yet.

Rembrant, I am following the braking upgrades...

I thought about trying the hydroboost set up a lot of folks seem to like, but I've heard good and bad either way, so I am staying stock for the time being.

Let me know what method you use to bleed your barking system. I bought one of those reverse bleeders from Phoenix systems and I am only somewhat impressed. The kit was $50, and I still ended up bleeding them the old fashioned way. (and alone no less, so that's always fun)

Keep peelin'

[Steve83]

Ferdinand wrote

...reverse bleeders from Phoenix systems...

Is it a vacuum bleeder?  Reverse-bleeding doesn't require any equipment (and it's my preferred method).  It's described in this caption:



I've used it on my truck, several similar trucks, my car & others, and modern 4WABS/TC vehicles while working at dealerships & independent shops.  I've never had to do the 2nd part of the procedure.

[Rembrant]

Ferdinand wrote

Let me know what method you use to bleed your barking system. I bought one of those reverse bleeders from Phoenix systems and I am only somewhat impressed. The kit was $50, and I still ended up bleeding them the old fashioned way. (and alone no less, so that's always fun)

I have one of those motive power bleeders or whatever they're called (with the cap adapter for European cars...in my case, Volkswagens) and I was never able to get the thing to work properly. It's in the box on the shelf in my garage collecting dust.

Most of the time I use a power bleeder that I made years ago using an SMC vacuum ejector on a glass jar. It takes compressed air to run, but offers constant hands free adjustable vacuum. I usually stick in on a bleeder screw, turn the vacuum on, and then go and slowly pour the fluid in the reservoir. Once the bubbles stop coming out of the bleeder screw, I close the screw. If I pull the tube off the bleeder with the vacuum still on, I don't even get a single drip to wipe up.

I use it for other jobs too, but I made the thing originally for doing motorcycle brakes so I could bleed both front calipers at the same time.

[Gary Lewis]

I have a Mityvac with the accessories for bleeding brakes.  But the threads of the bleeder screw leak such that you are never sure if the bubbles are from the threads or from the system.  So I don't like using it.

My plan is to get one of the HF brake bleeder kits to use on the plastic reservoir of the later MC.

[Steve83]

Gary Lewis wrote

But the threads of the bleeder screw leak such that you are never sure if the bubbles are from the threads or from the system.

Apply silicone dielectric/brake grease to the threads to seal them.

But it's moot with reverse-bleeding since the bleed screws aren't opened.

[Gary Lewis]

Once when I was re-building the entire braking system I used PTFE tape on the bleeder screws and that worked very well.  But if you aren't rebuilding you can't very well pull the bleeder screws, so some type of heavy paste/grease would probably work, like the dielectric or brake grease - applied w/a Q-Tip.  Or, maybe PTFE paste.  So, I like that idea.  

As for the reverse bleeding approach, I'll have to try that.

[grumpin]

Steve83 wrote

Ferdinand wrote

...reverse bleeders from Phoenix systems...

Is it a vacuum bleeder?  Reverse-bleeding doesn't require any equipment (and it's my preferred method).  It's described in this caption:



I've used it on my truck, several similar trucks, my car & others, and modern 4WABS/TC vehicles while working at dealerships & independent shops.  I've never had to do the 2nd part of the procedure.

Steve, thanks, that is interesting.

I bought Speed Bleeders for the F250 because I don't always have someone to help me.

I haven't installed the Speed Bleeders yet. Ran out of summer!

[Rembrant]

The old Blue Mule project has been collecting dust for a few weeks, but a box of new parts arrived last week:



All new cab mounts and hardware
Swaybar bushings
New seal for the vent valve in the gas tank
New rear spring shackles
New rear axle bumpers
New 5spd shift knob for my modified NP435 shifter stick
Can't remember what else...

Boy those cab mount parts are expensive. Ugh.

Going to install the swaybars soon. I have them all powder coated and ready to go. My frame stands are tied up at the moment holding up the rear end of the frame while I get my rear leaf bushings sorted out this week. If the Energy Suspension bushings are the correct size that will be the best fix, that's plan A. If not, plan B. is to get new main leafs.

Also need to do the brake lines and fuel lines still. It's not much work, I just haven't gotten to it yet. I got all new cushion clamps today for both lines, so now I just need the lines.

Oh, and I picked up another old '83 5.0 H.O. air cleaner assembly. It's in pretty rough condition, but good for some spare parts. It still had all of the vacuum fittings and tubes, etc. Also, I was missing a couple of the factory screws for the air inlet ducts, which were unobtanium, at least around here.



Another thing I've been meaning to do is install the new Ford OEM temp sensor in the intake, and fix what may be a leaky thermostat housing. I was also planning to lengthen the heater core hoses a little bit, to see if I can get the air cleaner intake flkex duct to work a little better in that area.

Ahh...so many things to do...

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, so many things to do!  And where to start?  

But it looks like you have a good plan, Stan.  I hope it comes together just right.  Man, that'll be a lot of improvement on the Blue Mule.  

[FuzzFace2]

Rembrant wrote

Ahh...so many things to do...

I hear you brother!
I am in that same boat and at times I think I will never see the end LOL
At least you got to drive yours. Other than a bad short test drive in 2015 I have not.
Dave ----

[Rembrant]

Dave,

Yes sir, I put something like 2500-3000 miles on it last summer, just touring around locally mostly, but I can say I did that much.

I doubt I'll be finished by spring, but it should be drive-able again. It just may not be pretty, that's all...lol.

Can't do it all at once...where would the fun be in that?...lol.

[Rembrant]

Finally got the leaf springs re-installed tonight. I ended up taking them to a local spring shop and they tightened up the rear leaf eyes for me. The new bushings pressed in nice and tight, so we're back in business now. I installed four spring bundle clamps instead of the factory front two, and new DJM rear shackles to try and level out the truck a little bit.

What are you guys tightening the axle tube U-Bolts to? 85-90 ft/lbs? I've got about 70 on them now.



Anyway, I figure I'll start cutting the cab mounts out this weekend. I have a new set on hand. Once they're done, that will be every single frame and chassis rubber bushing replaced. Even jumping the rear end up and down now feels much tighter....well, as tight as a squishy suspension'd 84 F150 can be;).

So, next up...

Replace all four cab mounts.
Finish brake lines (Couldn't jack-up front of truck while rear of truck was on the stands).
Re-install wiring harness from cab back...
Install new fuel tank and fuel line.
Etc, etc, etc....

[grumpin]

Good job! Good progress!

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, that looks really good!  Glad the local shop was able to fix the springs to take the bushings.

I'll check the shop manual later today on torque values.

[Gary Lewis]

How's this?